Slowly priming my car???

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jhdeval

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Ok so I am slowly by hand sanding and priming my car. My question is an old school body guy told me I should use Laquer Primer because it is not water porous is this a good idea? If not what should I use?
 
Don't use any laquer products period!!! ( even the red spot putty) especially under base-clear paint. It will eventually cause the paint to lift. Laquer is old school and is no longer available in many states, because of the VOCs, but it also rarely last very long on a car without checking, and cracking etc. Do yourself a favor and use a good epoxy primer, which is very corrosion resistant.
 
Thats what I was thinking. Can it be sprayed directly on metal or do I need self etching then epoxy? Much of my paint has chipped away over the years. The car has been painted three separate times do I need to go to bare metal?
 
Epoxy can be applied directly to properly prepped bare metal. Then cover w/ a urethane primer- surfacer & block sand straight.
 
Well sounds like I might look like He Man after all the sanding I have to do. I am using a DA sander but my air compressor blows in a bad way so I can only use it for a few minutes at a time.

Any opinions on tpcglobal.com I keep running into their website and I just don't know if there product is any good.
 
Just 2 quick points, epoxy primer as said before and just so you know it's either etch or epoxy, never both. The other is why are you using a DA? fine for removal of paint but if you're trying to get the panel straight it's all long board and elbow grease :D
 
Rob said:
Just 2 quick points, epoxy primer as said before and just so you know it's either etch or epoxy, never both. The other is why are you using a DA? fine for removal of paint but if you're trying to get the panel straight it's all long board and elbow grease :D
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All paint removal. Believe it or not body is pretty straight just tired paint. The car was painted around the early 80's lightly driven till the early 90's then put up till I got it a few years ago.

I stumbled on a local paint supplier and their prices are VERY competitive to what I was finding online. About 140.00 for a gallon of epoxy primer and 2 quarters of activator.
 
i paid 105.00 for the Y2K high build epoxy primer kit... . 1 gallon and the activator. this was at a local auto paint distributor. 140 seems steep to me, just sayin. the Y2K is damn good stuff
 
jhdeval said:
All paint removal. Believe it or not body is pretty straight just tired paint. The car was painted around the early 80's lightly driven till the early 90's then put up till I got it a few years ago.

I stumbled on a local paint supplier and their prices are VERY competitive to what I was finding online. About 140.00 for a gallon of epoxy primer and 2 quarters of activator.
Click to expand...

It can never be too straight, I would still shoot a few coats of high build primer, guide coat and block. I do that process at least a couple times, usually more. If you lay down a super slick paint job, color sand and buff you will see every minor imperfection and it won't look all that minor either. Just saying :D
 
I am sorry I did not mean to indicate I would not be block sanding. I will be. I want a super slick job.
 
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