Small Block Pulleys

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1969VADart

1969VADart

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After reading a previous thread about removing factory AC, it was mentioned that the pulley system would have to be replaced to accommodate that change. I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations on dealers that sell complete small block pulley systems if I indeed have to change the pulley setup? Thanks.
 
This might be a silly question, but what would be the need for an idler pulley? The belt setup on my car currently works fine with the AC not hooked up. Could I not remove the compressor from the car and still run with the setup as it is? That would allow me to reinstall the AC system if I ever decided to do that.

66plyValiant said:
just put an idler pulley in, or put a shorter belt on
Click to expand...
 
Mancini Racing carries repro pulleys for them. Just tell them what year that your car is and if you need single crank pulley or double crank pulley for p/s.


Ps. You may have to convert the alternator over to single groove pulley or buy an alt with the single pulley for them to line up. A/C cars use a double pulley on the alt.
 
1969VADart said:
This might be a silly question, but what would be the need for an idler pulley? The belt setup on my car currently works fine with the AC not hooked up. Could I not remove the compressor from the car and still run with the setup as it is? That would allow me to reinstall the AC system if I ever decided to do that.
Click to expand...

unless your car uses a dedicated belt to run A/C only you need to change pulleys or reroute belt to make everything work without the compressor there
 
66plyValiant said:
just put an idler pulley in, or put a shorter belt on
Click to expand...

Depending on your pulley diameter and water pump used, the belt can run into the water pump neck...saw this on my brother's 340.

He's just dropped the money on a new pulley set from eBay for $80. Yeah, they won't match completely since they're aluminum and the P/S is old dirty steel, but (a) at least he'll be able to run both the alternator and p/s pump...and (b) he'll likely upgrade to aluminum eventually anyway. When I first looked, people wanted real money for the 340 crank pulley...something about $50 for a 45 year old crusty *** pulley that you didn't know if it was actually straight didn't set well with me.
 
1969VADart said:
...Could I not remove the compressor from the car and still run with the setup as it is? That would allow me to reinstall the AC system if I ever decided to do that.
Click to expand...

Nope...the pulley alignment is different from a/c to non-a/c cars...as mentioned above.
 
I got some new billet pulleys from CVFracing. Not a bad price at all....or I have my old stock ones off a 68 dart 273 with p/s if they would work for you
 
mopar4eva said:
I got some new billet pulleys from CVFracing. Not a bad price at all....or I have my old stock ones off a 68 dart 273 with p/s if they would work for you
Click to expand...

I sent you a PM about this.

As an aside to everyone, can the pulley on the alternator simply be swapped out for a correct pulley or is there more to that change? Thanks to everyone for the input so far.
 
66plyValiant said:
unless your car uses a dedicated belt to run A/C only you need to change pulleys or reroute belt to make everything work without the compressor there
Click to expand...

Could I assume that this is actually the case since the AC compressor has no belt connected now and yet everything else functions normal (alternator, power steering)?
 
Okay so I know I made a thread about this, but I think I found out a solution. Well It works, but I'll see what other people think about it. If they don't like it maybe I'll rethink what I'm doing. I was just messing around to try and make it work.

I'm in the same boat you are, I wanted to get rid of the ac unit to clean up under the hood. So I was experimenting with some belt combination and I think I found out one that works. The belt I used was the exact same one that is used on the power steering pump so its shorter than it would be with the A/C, I didn't change the location of that belt went and I didn't touch any of the pulleys, the only thing I changed was the belt routing. There is about an inch of clearance between the belt that goes under the water pump.

So my belts go crank directly to the alternator and the crank to the water pump to the power steering (Stock belt routing anyways).

Somebody chime in if they think this is a bad idea, because like I said I was only experimenting.

Just bear with me here I'm trying to upload the images. Just having some issues lol

http://s72.photobucket.com/user/kellyb43/media/IMG_1731_zpsee759fc9.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

http://s72.photobucket.com/user/kellyb43/media/IMG_1730_zps51fd6f99.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1


IMG_1730_zps51fd6f99.jpg.html


IMG_1731_zpsee759fc9.jpg.html
 
I believe the previous owner must have already switched to a shorter belt running from the alternator. Everything seems to function normally and there is no idler pulley in the line currently. I think he just left the AC compressor on in case he ever decided to hook it back up and maybe because it appears that the alternator mount is incorporated into the AC compressor mount. All things being equal, could I take off the compressor and find a mounting spacer for the alternator that retains the alignment that is working right now?
 
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