Solder ????

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SleeperScamp

SleeperScamp

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Any of you body guys have much experience using solder ?? What kind do you prefer silver , lead , lead free ????? Thanks...
 
I've rewired more British vehicles than most sane humans and have always had great luck the old fashioned way, flux and silver solder. If you know anything about British vehicles the wiring sucks. The light switches are labeled OFF, DIM and FLICKER. Go with silver solder.
 
yea 69gts is right....get a good heavyduty gun or butane torch thingy never used one of those , they are a little pricy...but they get hot now not later
 
If you use a solder with flux, make sure you clean any extra flux off the connection and surrounding area. Flux will draw moisture after time and may corrode outside the soldered area. Look at an old circuit board that hasn't been cleaned of flux and you will see a white powder residue on it and it will conduct through the powder as well causing a possible short. Silver solder will need more heat than tin to melt so you will need a higher wattage soldering gun for silver. Also make sure the joint is shiny when done. A dull joint means a bad solder connection. When soldering two wires together, it is usually easier to "tin" both ends before joining them. This means melting the solder on each end to coat the wires and then join the two by melting the solder together. It's not hard to do but with a little practice you can have a quick and secure connection.
 
I think SleeperScamp is asking about solder as used in "leading" or "metaling". The lead was used as a filler for seams, joints, holes, low spots, or patch panels. The stuff was toxic, though, and required a respirator. The "lead" solder they have nowadays is no longer toxic and can be heated and applied without the use of a respirator. The process is still the same, clean the area, flux the area, apply the solder with "cool" heat, and then file, grind, and/or finish the area. Although the new stuff is safe it still takes that old school experience to do it right. By the way, I don't have that old school experience. A good internet search should get you some information the leading.
 
Check out Eastwood.com they carry body solders leaded and lead free
plus they have body fillers that may work just as good. It's called metal-2-metal it contains aluminum and fiberglass. I never used it myself maybe someone on the site has. Eastwood says it's recommend instead of lead, but then again they are selling it too.

They do have a DVD on body soldering or leading.

I have bought products from them and they work pretty good.

Hope this helps. good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Be careful with the stuff with lead it's very toxic.
 
Forrest said:
I think SleeperScamp is asking about solder as used in "leading" or "metaling". The lead was used as a filler for seams, joints, holes, low spots, or patch panels. The stuff was toxic, though, and required a respirator. The "lead" solder they have nowadays is no longer toxic and can be heated and applied without the use of a respirator. The process is still the same, clean the area, flux the area, apply the solder with "cool" heat, and then file, grind, and/or finish the area. Although the new stuff is safe it still takes that old school experience to do it right. By the way, I don't have that old school experience. A good internet search should get you some information the leading.
Click to expand...

Yeah,this was what I was talking about.... But thanks for the wire soldering schooling.... I actually have some places on my car where the the " new " roof skin that i put on has some small rust holes and someone suggested the best thing to do is to solder the places..... Well I have never done this and wanted some input.... I will try to get some pics... Thanks
 
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