Solid Roller Lifters on a Hydraulic Roller Cam?

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19_Dart_68

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Any reasons not to do it?
They are cheaper than hyd roller lifters and less likely to grenade. Seeing quite a few hyd roller lifter stories in the past couple years about bad quality internals and axles...
The cam I want to use is the cam I want to use and it's a hyd roller grind. Only looking for relevant answers. Thanks Mopartners!
 
I see no reason why they cannot be used. In fact. I am doing just that on my brother's engine.
 
What he means is to run a tighter lash than you might with a solid roller cam.(.008-.010)
Engine Masters did an episode on just this. They found power, assumed reliability, said the worse the hydro lifters were, more likely to find power.....
 
What he means is to run a tighter lash than you might with a solid roller cam.(.008-.010)
Engine Masters did an episode on just this. They found power, assumed reliability, said the worse the hydro lifters were, more likely to find. Are we talking about doing the same for the solid lifters?
Thank you for clarifying. I vaguely remember the episode, so I'll go back and find it.
 
You can also order "limited travel" hydraulic rollers. Morel offers that option, and I'm running a set if you dont want to go to the solids.
 
You can also order "limited travel" hydraulic rollers. Morel offers that option, and I'm running a set if you dont want to go to the solids.
Ok, that's another option too...cool. How much $ do they run?
 
I bought a set a couple months ago for $575 plus shipping. I think the limited travel added around $100 or so. I bought them through Motorsportsunlimited.net
Ken is the guy to call there - his number is: 216-390-4561
The limited travel hydraulic lifters have between .015 and .030 travel before going solid. Standard hydraulic rollers have around .120".......
 
I bought a set a couple months ago for $575 plus shipping. I think the limited travel added around $100 or so. I bought them through Motorsportsunlimited.net
Ken is the guy to call there - his number is: 216-390-4561
The limited travel hydraulic lifters have between .015 and .030 travel before going solid. Standard hydraulic rollers have around .120".......
Thank you for the info!
 
I have run sol lifters on several hyd cams, no problem. I would NOT use any type of hyd roller lifter. The internals are the same size as that of hyd flat tappet lifters, but the load has been doubled in some cases. The 'fix' has been things like tighter internal internal clearances to prevent bleed/down/collapse. Then the smallest amount of debris jams the lifter....

I would use 0.006-0.008" clearance, hot. Lash the valves initially at 0.012" & get the engine up to operating temp. Quickly remove a valve cover while hot & measure the lash on an int & exh valve.
Let the engine cool down & re-measure. You will now have the correct lash for cold setting.
 
This was something that I considered when I had the 440-493 out for a refresh last year.
I don't recall all the specifics because once the prices started to add up, I got distracted.
Why not run solid lifters on the solid cam? Are solid lifter camshafts more expensive than hydraulic roller cams?
 
I run solids on a hydraulic cam. Works just fine. Your lash will depend on what material your cylinder heads are. You want the lash tight because the hydraulic lobe has no clearance ramp. Aluminum and cast iron will grow different amounts at temperature and change the lash. The goal is zero lash hot.
 
I watched that Engine Masters episode last night. Good info. Season 4 Episode 7 (I think).
I'd like to see a follow-up on the longevity question posed.
 
I run solids on a hydraulic cam. Works just fine. Your lash will depend on what material your cylinder heads are. You want the lash tight because the hydraulic lobe has no clearance ramp. Aluminum and cast iron will grow different amounts at temperature and change the lash. The goal is zero lash hot.
How many miles/hours on them? Street driving too? Thanks!
 
I watched that Engine Masters episode last night. Good info. Season 4 Episode 7 (I think).
I'd like to see a follow-up on the longevity question posed.
I will be at westech Monday or Tuesday next week. If I remember I’ll ask Brule and Troy if they’ve put any more dyno laps on that engine.
How many miles/hours on them? Street driving too? Thanks!
All street driving/towing. It’s my daily driver with LOTS of miles on it.
 
I will be at westech Monday or Tuesday next week. If I remember I’ll ask Brule and Troy if they’ve put any more dyno laps on that engine.

All street driving/towing. It’s my daily driver with LOTS of miles on it.
That would be awesome, thanks.
Thanks for the info!
 
No, you do not want zero hot lash [ post #14 ].......unless you want burned valves & a terrible idle.
You want about 0.006-.008" hot lash, a happy medium. Use the method in post #12 to determine hot lash for YOUR engine.
 
I said the GOAL was zero hot lash, in theory. And that’s true because of the lack of clearance ramp. At .006-.008 you’ll beat up the cam and roller. In practice, you can’t lash at zero hot because when cold you’ll hang the valves open. My point was you want the lash tight, and as tight as practical while still sealing when the engine is cold. And that will depend on the material of the cylinder heads.
 
In practice, you can’t lash at zero hot because when cold you’ll hang the valves open.
Wouldn't you have more last when cold if you zero-lashed when hot?
cold = shrinkage Especially in my case:lol:
 
Dart,
You do NOT want zero hot lash, 2nd time now. For a number of reasons. Sol lfters have no give. Hyd lifters do. If you set sol lifters to zero, that is what you get. The point on the Base Circle where you set the lash might be a low point. [ Cams, like everything man made has tolerances ]. This is called BC run out. If the spot where you set the lash is the low point, then the the valve is held off the seat for the remainder of the BC. Another MOST important function about lash adjustment, not mentioned, is this: the heads of the valves [ particularly the exh ] get very hot while the valves are open because they are exposed to the combustion chamber heat. They dissipate this heat through contact with the seats in the head. Less time in contact, more chance of burning valves.
Setting lash at zero when 'hot' does not mean it stays at zero all the time. A few high rpm runs might get the exh valve hotter than when you bench set the lash at zero. The exh valves now expands more & holds the valve off it's seat. Lost power & possible damage. This is why there needs to be some lash to allow for these variations. Zero lash will also have a veeeeeery rough idle, may not idle at all because you have massively increased the seat timing & have little or no idle vacuum. Hyd cams have short clearance ramps because the hyd lifter provides a cushion. Because of the short ramp, having the lash too high risks getting onto the flank of the lobe where the acceleration rate is much higher. This is why 0.006-8" is a safe number & covers all eventualities.
 
Take the advice of one of the smartest guys in the industry.
 
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