some more questions

[mshred]

Hey guys,

im getting real close to having the scamp ready for paint and im very very excited...I have the whole car blocked to 255 right now in high build primer and my painter has told me he wants the car in 400 before he seals it....my question is can i jump from 255 to 400? or do i need a step in between? also, can i do the 400 non wet because i dont want water touching the spots were there is bare metal showing through or filler either....how fast would it clog if it isnt wet? lastly, its fine to spray sealer over the bare metal and filler and stuff the is coming through the primer in some areas right?

Thanks for all the help so far guys...its been members on this board who have asnwered all my questions, as noob or dumb as they may be, that has helped me get this far....started off knowing nothing about bodywork and now my car is almost ready for paint!

thanks guys:-D

 

[340sixpack]

If i were doing it i would prime again,at least 2 coats not with the high build
but a regular primer surfacer.This will fill your abrasive scratches from
blocking with the 255.I have always blocked with 120 but 255 is still
agressive.Blow it off good and wipe down with towels while you are blowing it to make sure your getting all the residue out off your scratches.Wipe down
with wax and grease remover and blow dry again while doing this.

You can wet sand or dry sand at this point,it will take more paper dry but
you can also see something you may have missed as if you were wet sanding it may not show up till you have everything dry again.

Priming again seems like it will probably be alot more work but you should really do it.That way you will have your exposed body work covered and
the bare metal as well and if you dry sand you can see that you havent gone too far and break through the surfacer again.Just my opinion and most
people have there own way of doing it.Do what works best for you but do
it right what ever way you choose.Good luck with your project.

 

[mshred]

yes priming it again would be the optimal route, but i dont have that option...Im going to the leave the job of covering metal and filler to the sealer...also, is it okay to jump from 255 to 400? should i use guidecoat with the 400 even if i used it blocking with 255?

 

[340sixpack]

Well i never done this without repriming and if you dont have that option i
guess you will have to make do.At this point guide coat will be pretty
worthless if your not repriming i think cause if you have high spots you will continue to sand through your primer causing more bare metal spots and you
dont want that.If you have low spots,well this goes back to repriming as well
if its gonna require a skim coat of what you are using.

Dry sand with 400 and a foam block or some kind of block but i think you
will have problems getting all your abrasion marks out without sanding off all your primer.Using another grit before 400 wont make any difference other than taking off more material before you do hit it with the 400.Hope it works
out for ya mshred.

 

[mshred]

so pretty much i cant get all the scrathes out with 400 without repriming, thus ruining my paintjob? Im a little confused....Ive seen lots of cars that were painted without any primer, just bodywork on the original paint and it looked pretty good....my car wont be show quality, just a driver, but i would like to know how i need to proceed without repriming....here is a pic of how it stands now

 

[mshred]

340sixpack even from the pics it looks like i should reprime? any one else wanna chime in on this one? i would appreciate it

thanks

 

[340sixpack]

Hard to see from your pic,you want as little bare metal exposed as possible.It
will rust from the inside out if not treated properly.They make a product called PHIX,hit your bare metal spots with that if you cant prime again but atleast try and spot in those areas if you can after the metal has been treated.Try this link:
http://www.ppcbest.com/phix_treatment.htm
Check you auto parts store.

The weather there looks way to nice,its cold enough here i dont think my car
would even start yet work on it out in the driveway.Brrr

 

[mshred]

hey 340sixpack, thanks for the link...im going to see if my local paint supply carries it...its not really humid here so i shouldnt have much problems with rust...If i do use the PHIX stuff, do you suggest i do it just before the paint goes on? the pic may look good, but its just me toughing out the weather...its actually freezing outside where i am right now (about 0 degrees celsius when that picture was taken) and even colder now, but i have no choice but to keep working outside since im not allowed to do it in the garage cuz of my dad's dart in there

 

[2 Darts]

I'll bet you're a hit in your neighborhood with that car outside. I'd try to get some uniform base coat or primer under the top coat.

I've seen spray-over paint jobs. They may look good out of the paint booth but between the quality of the paint used and the lack of a good surface bond, it looks bad in a few months.

 

[mshred]

I'll bet you're a hit in your neighborhood with that car outside. I'd try to get some uniform base coat or primer under the top coat.

I've seen spray-over paint jobs. They may look good out of the paint booth but between the quality of the paint used and the lack of a good surface bond, it looks bad in a few months.

what do you mean when you say they look bad? what about them looks bad afterwards? and yes you are right when you say i am the hit of the neighborhood- i have been all summer, but especially now when people see me where jacket upon jacket with a tuque sanding away in the cold as they drive by in their nice heated vehicles:-D

 

[mshred]

oh forgot to mention, when you say uniform basecoat under the topcoat, would a sealer over all the bare metal and stuff count? my painted will be spraying a sealer coat before the basecoat goes on