Sound Deadening

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1969Fish

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Anyone ever used any sort of sound deadening under their carpet during your rebuild?? If so what kind.
 
We use it on just about every build we do in our shop. We have used Dynamat and Fatmat. Both work great.
 
Hushmat in the Demon,,good price.

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I have used RAAMmat BXT. Good product and decent prices.

ONe thing to consider is whether it's butyl or asphalt based. Asphalt based products are more inclined to fail from heat. Just something to keep in mind. On floorpans that's probably not much of an issue. Doors and roofs on the other hand...

The catch: butyl-based products generally cost more than asphalt.
 
Yeah, I'm thinking about doing the same when I get my tax return. I was thinking about using Dynamat, but if there is something better or the same quality but cheaper with the same amount of sheets I'll get that instead.
 
Muad'Dib15 said:
Yeah, I'm thinking about doing the same when I get my tax return. I was thinking about using Dynamat, but if there is something better or the same quality but cheaper with the same amount of sheets I'll get that instead.
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I think RAAMmat and SecondSkin are generally - on average - slightly less costly than Dynamat brand. All 3 are butyl based products.
 
I'll be adding some to my Duster when I get to the interior. Trying to keep the weight down, but think the benefit of the sound deadening material will offset the weight gain. Approximately how much weight will this add...ball park? Would one brand be lighter than another? Just curious.

Thanks folks,
Pat
 
I'm In the same boat, and it depends on what you want to spend. No offense to those that used it in their high buck builds. Dynamat etc. is about 5 times the cost of the Home Depot / Lowe's Air Duct Wrap. I'm going to use that. For extra insurance, use 3M glue for extra adhesion. As for as the butyl vs. asphault based equation, I figure heat will only be a small problem, and how close offending devices will be to the floor pan in the first place.

Google this subject, there's plenty of coverage on it. Here is one instance:

http://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...d-deadener-kit-insulation-undercoating-2.html

IMHO. Save your upgrade-to-dynamat-cash for something else. If it "fails", what's it going to do? Come unglued? Who cares. its on the floor.
 
I decided to use the "less costly" Peel and Seal from Lowes (or HDepot) and worked great (see links). Left the top down and it molded easy into all areas- just peel off backing and apply. AND I dont notice any smell... AND it sits in the hot South Florida sun many a day!

After putting down Peel/Seal I then put down a sound deadner pad and then carpet that had mass backing. Overkill? Maybe... but it has kept alot of the heat out and keeps the rumble to a low roar. The only issue I had was I needed to cut the mass backing and sound deadner pad out around the gas pedal... as it would not allow me to put foot down to get full throttle.

link (see #49):
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=82832&page=2

link:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=91019&page=2
 

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Divenut said:
I'll be adding some to my Duster when I get to the interior. Trying to keep the weight down, but think the benefit of the sound deadening material will offset the weight gain. Approximately how much weight will this add...ball park? Would one brand be lighter than another? Just curious.

Thanks folks,
Pat
Click to expand...

The products website should have weight per sq ft stats posted somewhere. If that doesn't work see how many sq feet you need then see what the shipping weight for the amount you need will be. Should be dang close to the total weight you will add to your car.
 
Divenut said:
I'll be adding some to my Duster when I get to the interior. Trying to keep the weight down, but think the benefit of the sound deadening material will offset the weight gain. Approximately how much weight will this add...ball park? Would one brand be lighter than another? Just curious.

Thanks folks,
Pat
Click to expand...

Hard to guess, but I'd say the roll I got weighed about 30 lb, and it was enough to do both my standard cab D100 and my convertible.
 
I used Second Skin Damplifier and am very happy. Reviews show it to have top quality sound deadening characteristics, and better adhesion compared to anything else out there...
 

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I used peel and seal also, Worked great and only a fraction of the price of dynamat.
 
JCMini30 said:
The products website should have weight per sq ft stats posted somewhere. If that doesn't work see how many sq feet you need then see what the shipping weight for the amount you need will be. Should be dang close to the total weight you will add to your car.
Click to expand...

GaryS said:
Hard to guess, but I'd say the roll I got weighed about 30 lb, and it was enough to do both my standard cab D100 and my convertible.
Click to expand...


Thanks guys.

Pat
 
Assuming that butyl and asphalt products perform exactly the same (I don't know that I'd agree with this assumption, but will concede for the sake of this argument), I think it's fair to say that the only advantage of asphalt products is the lower price. I could not be more sympathetic! Who doesn't want to save $$$ ?

For those not looking to break the bank for sound-deadening, one of the things to consider is how you use the product - asphalt, butyl, whatever it may be. The 'mat' products (the sticky stuff with aluminum backing that slices your fingers to bits) are mostly effective at controlling panel resonance. Putting the 'mat' at the edges of panels, support ribs/braces, etc, will have limited benefits when it comes to sound. Or rather, it's not making the most of what they do best. By focusing a smaller amount of the product in the center of panels (floorpans, door panels) you are getting more bang-for-your-buck by making the best use of their intended purpose: controlling resonance (vibration) by lowering the resonant frequency of the panel. Also valuable for those worried about weight.

Once you've taken care of the resonating panels, you can then cover everything else with mass-loaded vinyl or closed cell foam (this is important! open-cell foam will collect moisture and rot) to lower overall sound levels. This stuff is generally cheaper per SF than the 'mat' product. Getting the mass-backing option on replacement carpets can help significantly as well.

I'm not a client or user of his products, but Don over at www.sounddeadenershowdown.com has a long history of studying this stuff and there's some good info to be found there.

Just some more stuff to ponder. Turn that sh*t up! :D
 
Peel and Seal all the way baby!!!!

I told my boss about it and he doesn't buy the high price crap any longer. I guess I shouldn't call it crap but it is over priced.
 
On my old 71 I added some in to the inside of the roof, too. It had a bow style head liner.
I believe it actually help the A/C work better when the hot Georgia sun used to beat down on that black vinyl roof. lol
 
You know how the trunks would rust open by each quarter panel. I knew this fellow who used to use roofing tar and rags to seal it back up. He slap a bunch of sticky tar goop and then layer it with used towels, slap some more tar crap over that and another towel.

Made a mess but once dried it worked.

I thought he was nuts not to just use cloth and glue-fiberglass, he said the tar and rags was cheaper, this was late 70's
 
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