Spark Plugs

-

roccodart440

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
6,801
Reaction score
3,578
What do you guys think of this plug. Thinking of running some spray too.

BrandFramManufacturer's Part Number306Part TypeSpark PlugsProduct LineAutolite Copper Core Spark PlugsSummit Racing Part NumberFRM-306 Shorty Spark PlugNoResistorYesManufacturer Heat RangeB7Electrode Core MaterialCopperElectrode Tip MaterialCopperInsulator TypeNon-projectedSpark Plug Thread Size14mmSpark Plug Reach0.375 in.Spark Plug Seat StyleGasketWrench Diameter13/16 in.Ground Strap QuantityOne
 
Run
NGKs you wont be sorry.
Frank

what part number? can u break them down like this part number blah is good for stock or light mod, this part number blah is good for a hi comp big cam motor... etc...

thx ed
 
There is no need to spend big money for magic spark plugs, and there is no benefit to doing so. The trick plug for regular use in a '60-'74 slant-6 head (w/spark plug tubes and gasket-seat spark plugs) is NGK #ZFR5N, which has projected electrodes to move the spark closer to the middle of the combustion chamber, away from quenchout and shroud areas. This plug design was developed by the major reputable plug companies in the '70s in cooperation with the automakers who were trying to get their newly-desmogged engines to run acceptably. Moving the spark away from quenchout/shroud areas made for more reliable ignition of difficult-to-ignite, borderline-lean mixtures. First application was AMC 258s. First Mopar application was '81-'83 EFI Imperials, and there are numerous more recent applications (4.0 Jeeps, 3.2 and 3.5 LH cars, etc.) Cost is the same as any other regular NGK plug, and they come without any of the bullѕhit used to hawk E3s and other scam plugs. Remove the metal ring washer before installing each plug if you're using a '63-'74 head. If you've got a '60-'62 head, leave the metal ring washer in place. See here for details on the ring washer issue.

The Chinese-made E3 plugs are a scam, just like every other "magic spark plug" scam in the last eighty years or so. Nothin' new under the sun. Wayyyy back in the days of gas price wars that started at 29¢/gallon and went downward from there, JC Witless had full-page ads hollering RUN YOUR CAR WITHOUT SPARK PLUGS! Back then they called 'em "fire injectors" rather than "E3", but the baloney still smells the same.

The claims made for what they do and how they do it don't square with any reality we live with in this universe, and are easily debunked by any 8th-grader in the top half of his science class -- and some of them (such as "the spark plug hasn't changed since 1904") can easily be squashed by the kids flunking everything but Smoking Area.

As for the magazine "test" of E3 plugs: Yeah, no doubt.

Think: automakers spend enormous sums of money to squeeze every last possible bit of fuel economy and efficiency from their engines. If these (or any) magic spark plugs did even a little bit of what they're claimed to be, you would see them as original equipment. You don't. There's a good reason.
 
Autolite ar-3924's is what i run in both my 360 and 416..i wouldn't run champions in my lawnmower..
 
There is no need to spend big money for magic spark plugs, and there is no benefit to doing so. The trick plug for regular use in a '60-'74 slant-6 head (w/spark plug tubes and gasket-seat spark plugs) is NGK #ZFR5N, which has projected electrodes to move the spark closer to the middle of the combustion chamber, away from quenchout and shroud areas. This plug design was developed by the major reputable plug companies in the '70s in cooperation with the automakers who were trying to get their newly-desmogged engines to run acceptably. Moving the spark away from quenchout/shroud areas made for more reliable ignition of difficult-to-ignite, borderline-lean mixtures. First application was AMC 258s. First Mopar application was '81-'83 EFI Imperials, and there are numerous more recent applications (4.0 Jeeps, 3.2 and 3.5 LH cars, etc.) Cost is the same as any other regular NGK plug, and they come without any of the bullѕhit used to hawk E3s and other scam plugs. Remove the metal ring washer before installing each plug if you're using a '63-'74 head. If you've got a '60-'62 head, leave the metal ring washer in place. See here for details on the ring washer issue.

The Chinese-made E3 plugs are a scam, just like every other "magic spark plug" scam in the last eighty years or so. Nothin' new under the sun. Wayyyy back in the days of gas price wars that started at 29¢/gallon and went downward from there, JC Witless had full-page ads hollering RUN YOUR CAR WITHOUT SPARK PLUGS! Back then they called 'em "fire injectors" rather than "E3", but the baloney still smells the same.

The claims made for what they do and how they do it don't square with any reality we live with in this universe, and are easily debunked by any 8th-grader in the top half of his science class -- and some of them (such as "the spark plug hasn't changed since 1904") can easily be squashed by the kids flunking everything but Smoking Area.

As for the magazine "test" of E3 plugs: Yeah, no doubt.

Think: automakers spend enormous sums of money to squeeze every last possible bit of fuel economy and efficiency from their engines. If these (or any) magic spark plugs did even a little bit of what they're claimed to be, you would see them as original equipment. You don't. There's a good reason.

once i get my slant 6 up and running. i'm gonna stick it on a dyno and try the NGK plugs i have now vs the E3 and see if there really is a difference
 
I agree on the magic plug thing. Having the correct reach and heat range is all you need BUT I want to spray this thing. Sparks plugs do matter when using NOS.
 
I used to run Autolites until they outsourced production to China and quality dropped (surprise). I agree about not running Champions; they're poorly made. Interesting experiment: pick up one NGK ZFR5N, one Autolite 985, and one Champion RL13LYC. All equivalent plugs in each maker's line. Spend five minutes carefully scrutinizing the details of each plug. The poor material and build quality of the Champion and Autolite compared to the NGK is as obvious as a nun in a whorehouse.
 
Buy one of each brand and put one in each cylinder. Put 500 miles on and see what you've got.
 
I love the NGK's, that is all I run in my SL6.
Tried and proven by many members on the slantsix.org website.
Those guys know what they are talking about.... :D
 
.035 for a stock motor and points distributor. .040 for a hotter spark electronic ignition. Some guys even go up to .045 but I haven't messed with that yet.
 
I guess no one here is a fan of the Splitfires (the older forked ones)
 
Moderate to low compression: ZFR5N Extended reach

Over 9:1: ZFR6-FIX-11 Standard reach Iridium

Over 11:1, N2O/Forced induction start looking into colder racing plugs. NGK and Champion have plugs. Don't have any of my data as I'm on a business trip. There is a ZFR7 plug listed, but I haven't played with it. (Peaked at 11:1, but backed things off to 10.7:1 to better utilize my cam timing.

As you will find, remove plug sealing rings when using Drool/Hemi tubes. The plugs seal on the aluminum tubes.

Indexing. A waste of valuable time. Net ET gain. 0.00 seconds. Very similar to moving the battery to the trunk in a slant car. :lol:

CJ
 
Champion = NGK
N59YD/N59YD = R5672A-10 VERY COLD
N6YC/N61YD = R5672A-9 COLD
N7YC/N63YD = R5672A-8 COOL
N9YC = BP6ES WARMER Stock street hemi/ 340 plug


I just bought a set of the NGK R5672A-9 plugs to try with my turbo. I've had good luck with the RN9YC but want to push boost and timing and want a cold plug.
 
Unless your turbo sits where the battery used to.

:lol: Turbo? What? I figured that would be plural by now with you mad scientist types!

I'm starting to second guess the thoughts for a compound. Unless I go with metric studs, I can't see keeping the head down. :roll:

CJ
 
couple questions about plugs.
got the ngks (zfr5n), gapped them to .040, pulled the washers off. seemed to run well. after about 300 miles i pulled them to see how they're holding up.
it looks like #1 is getting oil on it/burning oil. maybe bad valve seal, but it looks like there's oil on the plug threads. could oil be seeping past the drool tube into the threads?

also, i run about 9.0:1 compression. (head milled 0.090, bigger valves) should i be running colder plugs? all the others look good, nice and tan, no ash, no spots.
 
-
Back
Top