I have seen that happen before, and it kind of freak you out till you realize what the deal is.
Bet your cable didn't have lube problems though, did it?
Probably the best way for you to do it the first time is to mark the adapter vs the trans case so it can for sure go back in right.
That being said, notice how the cable screw threaded part is off center in the adapter, and that the adapter has notches for the clamp (retainer) bracket tips to sit in.
Also notice the numbers next to each set of notches.
The adapter would be rotated in it's hole to line up with each different size of gear that can go in it.
In yours the case has a little tit next to the gear size that is in it now (32-38 teeth)
The output shaft in the trans has a threaded section cut into the steel that drives the plastic gear,(like a worm gear drive) so when you put it all together and test it, lets say your speedo reads 5mph slow.
In that case you would get a one step smaller gear, and rotate the gear housing to match the numbers on your new gear,
Obviously, the smaller gear would require that the housing be rotated to make the gear closer to the output shaft.
Once you pull it and notice these details it will make total sense to you.
In this picture it shows the housing ready for the clamp/retainer to go on and using a speedo gear between 32 to 38 teeth.
Notice how if it was a 26-31 teeth speedo gear the housing would be rotated to the right and the offset would put the smaller speedo gear closer to the output shaft.
On a problem child leaker or a speedo gear with a groove worn in it from the seal, we used to put two of the small seals in there and leave the little metal ring out.
The cable end being in place then holds them in place and the outer seal has a new ungrooved surface to run on.
Now you are a Mopar speedometer gear changing and sealing pro.