[WANTED] Spindles, Upper Control Arm, Rotors for 73+ Brake Conversion

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I have this complete OEM 73 set up I pulled from my car. I am using 9" drum spindles with strange Engineering race brakes to cut weight.

Did you know that if you are putting them on with a pre 73 stabilizer . You need to put them on the oppossite side so the calipers are in the back of the spindle. Or it won't steer. To do this you will need to use 72 Road runner brake hoses which are on this set..

Everything on my car was new. 600 miles mostly car shows and drag strip. I also have the proportioning valve to go with it.

I didn't look what they are going for complete. So I don't have a price for everything. Arms have new ball joint and bushings. also new lower ball joints. I will let them go the way they came off the car. Make me an offer I will not sell parts off of this set I sold all others rusty used sets last week. And all arms.

The last picture is when we were putting the race motor back in. The first two are when we were stripping the car after the accident.

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If he wants to buy a whole set up he'll pm me. I took them off complete and that is the way they will go. No parts. The single piston brakes have drag compared to 4 piston. New Duster is getting race brakes. Just trying to recoup some money. I have enough left overs here.
 
HellCuda said:
I'd like to convert the drums on my 68 cuda to discs using a 73+ disc brake donor. Looking for donor parts outlined in this great how-to article:

A Body Disc Brake Swap 101
Click to expand...


I would not follow this artical at all. The first thing is with the factory 67-72 Stabilizer bar. You have to put the caliper in the rear of the spindle. 73 -76 a-body spindles can be swapped left to right as seen here.
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This needs to be done or the caliper will hit the factory stabilizer and it won't steer as far. The only thing you would need to do this if you have all the parts is you need to use 72 roadrunner brake hoses. I get them from napa.

Also There is a reason for the bigger ball joint. Sure you can make it go down the road with the sleeves to use your uppers. But they put that larger ball joint in for a reason. The front wheel base is wider with large bolt pattern. More stress. Someone is opening their self up for problems if that little ball joint breaks.

I thought about the sleeves along time ago. And we have the equipment to make them. I just don't agree with using them because of the weakness. like I said there is a reason they went to the large ball joint. The guys making the band-aid to use the little ball joints are not the engineers that designed this wider heavier wheel base. Buy The Upper A-arms they remake them Factory style or tubular

Good luck with your project and do it safe.

DSCN1673.jpg
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I have this complete OEM 73 set up I pulled from my car. I am using 9" drum spindles with strange Engineering race brakes to cut weight.

Did you know that if you are putting them on with a pre 73 stabilizer . You need to put them on the oppossite side so the calipers are in the back of the spindle. Or it won't steer. To do this you will need to use 72 Road runner brake hoses which are on this set..

Everything on my car was new. 600 miles mostly car shows and drag strip. I also have the proportioning valve to go with it.

I didn't look what they are going for complete. So I don't have a price for everything. Arms have new ball joint and bushings. also new lower ball joints. I will let them go the way they came off the car. Make me an offer I will not sell parts off of this set I sold all others rusty used sets last week. And all arms.

The last picture is when we were putting the race motor back in. The first two are when we were stripping the car after the accident.

View attachment 1715295383

View attachment 1715295384

View attachment 1715295385
Click to expand...
PM sent
 
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