splicing fuel line at the frame rail

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diymirage

diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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hey guys
i bought a new 3/8th pre bend fuel line for the duster, but there is no way i am going to be able to thread it through the frame rail

id imagine the lesser connection the better, so should i just cut it and reconnect it with a piece of flexible line?

or does it make more sense to build a little bulk head fitting, going through the frame with nipples on each end?

(of course that would require 2 little pieces of flexible line and twice as many hose clamps)
 
They make a double ended compression fitting in 3/8". No need for rubber anything or hose clamps.

Also don't know the year you are working on. But we were able to replace my brothers with a pre-bent in one solid piece being up on a lift. Didn't have to cut anything. Got a buddy and a six pack?
 
Last edited:
diymirage said:
hey guys
i bought a new 3/8th pre bend fuel line for the duster, but there is no way i am going to be able to thread it through the frame rail

id imagine the lesser connection the better, so should i just cut it and reconnect it with a piece of flexible line?

or does it make more sense to build a little bulk head fitting, going through the frame with nipples on each end?

(of course that would require 2 little pieces of flexible line and twice as many hose clamps)
Click to expand...

The compression fittings would be a lot better than hose IMO.
 
thanks guys, i cant believe id forgotten about those

i think ill hunt down one of these lil compression fitting bulkheads
that might be the way to go

s-l500.jpg
 
The fuel line runs inboard of the frame, not inside the frame rail itself.
 
Don't know what kind of supply places you have local. Might check with napa or even home depot. Failing that - McMaster-Carr and on-line it.
 
i cant find any of the bulkhead fittings i like, so i think ill just cut it and put a compression fitting on and call it good


Alaskan_TA said:
The fuel line runs inboard of the frame, not inside the frame rail itself.
Click to expand...

correct, but it jumps through the frame rails right next to the torsion bars
 
diymirage said:
i cant find any of the bulkhead fittings i like, so i think ill just cut it and put a compression fitting on and call it good




correct, but it jumps through the frame rails right next to the torsion bars
Click to expand...
I just removed my old ones to replace them and they where spliced with a rubber hose at the torsion bar crossmember it looked factory to me they had the crimp style crimps clamps
 
dartfreak75 said:
I just removed my old ones to replace them and they where spliced with a rubber hose at the torsion bar crossmember it looked factory to me they had the crimp style crimps clamps
Click to expand...

it looks like thats how mine is too, but i want to do this once, and do it right :)
 
diymirage said:
it looks like thats how mine is too, but i want to do this once, and do it right :)
Click to expand...
Yea I agree. I just got a roll of line I'm gonna fish it thru and bend it as I go. Hopefully it will work haha I got the copper nickel stuff so it shouldn't be to hard to bend
 
I have a pre-bent 3/8” line on my Duster, it fit through the crossmember just fine even with my subframe connectors already in place. Not super easy but I installed it with the car on jack stands, no lift required. I even still have the original 5/16” line in there for a return line when/if I go EFI.

7107EA1A-5F73-42BF-9428-113E6CCA01AF.jpeg
 
Look for a brand known as Swagelock. They use a double ferrule. Commonly used in stainless for lab process tubing, it will hold up very well. A bit expensive over standard stuff is the only downside.
 
On any of those compression fitting the tube OD need to be in a specific size range.

As others have stated you should not have to splice anything. I replaced my old line with 3/8" replacement and didn't have to splice a thing other than where the factory does at the tank and fuel pump.
 
if you guys have any tricks on how to feed it through id love to hear it

I fought with it for about 30 minutes before I decided to stop...didn't want to unbend it all

I do like the swagelock, I used that to plumb in my line lock
 
I don’t know if there’s any real tricks, it’s just kinda fiddly. I fed mine through from the back, I didn’t remove any bends completely but there were a couple that I tweaked a little bit to make things easier. The subframe connectors definitely complicated things. I had my car up on 12 ton jack stands at the time so it was pretty high up off the ground, like header install from the bottom high.
 
dartfreak75 said:
I just removed my old ones to replace them and they where spliced with a rubber hose at the torsion bar crossmember it looked factory to me they had the crimp style crimps clamps
Click to expand...
Was there barbed ends on the tubing? No way the factory would have put hose on flat tube

MF570A.jpeg
 
Is the flare like in the photo or more like a flare fitting on a brake line?
 
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