SRT JEEP 6.1 Manifolds DO NOT FIT!!!!!

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408 swinger

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As you can see in the photo, torsion bar is not even close to going in. Hits the collector first. There has been a lot of speculation here. Well, survey says"Bullshit!". This is 100% stock 1973 front suspension. Haven't tried, nor do I think I'm going to, try the driver's side.
 
Would work great on a coil over front. But, if you're blowing that kind of scratch on a front end, what's the f@#×€£ing point in using manifolds?!?!!
 
Looks like if you cut the collector pipe and turn the collector clockwise from that first picture, you could make it clear. "I" would be trying that.
 
If it were that easy. Take a gander at that bottom pic. You would be into way more than just the collector. And the bar is even lower than the socket on the lower control arm. Appreciate your input, though.
 
Hello to plan B :)
Yep. I'm keeping the 5.7 manifolds for awhile. I just knew I was be stuck on those f#!$%;&ing TTI headers at some point. Disclaimer: TTI headers ARE badass for an A body, as far as fitment.
 
If it were that easy. Take a gander at that bottom pic. You would be into way more than just the collector. And the bar is even lower than the socket on the lower control arm. Appreciate your input, though.

I still say the same thing. Maybe you don't understand. But I would be trying it. It looks like there's enough room.
 
Look at the first pic. Imagine the collector ears at "about 7 and 1 or 8 and 2...."somewhere" around there. I honestly think that would make that side clear. But if you don't.......I guess give up? That's too close for me to give up.
 
I hear ya Rusty. Only looking at the first pic, it appears that the only thing I have to do is rotate the collector. If that were the case, I'd be so good with that. But that pic is a little deceiving. When you look at the second pic, and, see how far "up" and "over" the bar has to go into the socket, you will understand. With that being said, the thought of just wacking out a couple inches above the collector crossed my mind!
 
I hear ya Rusty. Only looking at the first pic, it appears that the only thing I have to do is rotate the collector. If that were the case, I'd be so good with that. But that pic is a little deceiving. When you look at the second pic, and, see how far "up" and "over" the bar has to go into the socket, you will understand. With that being said, the thought of just wacking out a couple inches above the collector crossed my mind!

No I get that. I'm not just talking about rotating the collector. I'm talking about rotating it yes, but rotating it OFF CENTER clockwise. This would both rotate it AND move it over. Get me now?
 
I would like to see what that manifold looks like off the engine. If that's steel tubing welded to cast iron (almost looks like a welded on catalytic converter on the outlet), it gets a whole lot easier to modify.
 
I would like to see what that manifold looks like off the engine. If that's steel tubing welded to cast iron (almost looks like a welded on catalytic converter on the outlet), it gets a whole lot easier to modify.
It's goofy. The flange is thick steel. The collector seems to be "iron". Looks to be tubes inside the sheidling?
 
Ok, so there's more than the one outlet INSIDE that collector? That kinda does pose an issue.
 
I guess the whole point of this thread, really, is to point out that these are not "bolt on" with no issues. Just trying to clarify what "works" and doesn't work with this A body gen 3 b.s..
 
I found an article on here from 2015 where someone was using 6.1 Jeep manifolds in an amc, they said there wasn’t any way to make them fit in an a-body. I think a chop saw, some grinding, and some Ni-Rod could make it happen, though.
 
Hey a big thanks for trying and posting. I was thinking about trying this also. I broke my 340 in my Dart not sure yet how I want to go back together with it.
 
Hey a big thanks for trying and posting. I was thinking about trying this also. I broke my 340 in my Dart not sure yet how I want to go back together with it.
While I like the new Hemis and would love to put one in a d100, they just look out of place (kind of like me in today's culture) to me in an a body. It would be a monumental task and horribly expensive, but if I could do a different build in one of these cars, I would want to find a racer parting with a stash of early 2000's 4.9 inch bore center Mopar Pro Stock Hemi stuff and build something a "street" version of one with the 9.2 inch deck height block. I'll let everyone know how it goes if I miraculously come into a great fortune, lol!
 
That’s a big ball socket collector, But the inside is rather small looking.
 
View attachment 1715358786 View attachment 1715358787
As you can see in the photo, torsion bar is not even close to going in. Hits the collector first. There has been a lot of speculation here. Well, survey says"Bullshit!". This is 100% stock 1973 front suspension. Haven't tried, nor do I think I'm going to, try the driver's side.
hhhm I wonder if you could mill at an angle the flange to the engine and bring it closer to the block. That just might let the torsion bar get near the socket. since it looks off by at least an inch.
 
hhhm I wonder if you could mill at an angle the flange to the engine and bring it closer to the block. That just might let the torsion bar get near the socket. since it looks off by at least an inch.
I thought of that. But, the distance between the collector and trans becomes the next issue.
 
If looking to avoid spending big bucks (and I would agree they seem expensive) on TTI headers, would a QA1 K member solve the problem? Not sure it’s a LOT cheaper but it may be less than TTI
 
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