Ferdinandbites
Well-Known Member
Just thinking it's like a bad wire when u put water on it to test. The cylinder cutting out. Anyway.
Stalls in Gear, Automatic- Restarts Good- Can Slam it into Gear! EEEK
- Thread starter Ferdinandbites
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Just thinking it's like a bad wire when u put water on it to test. The cylinder cutting out. Anyway.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
OK, yeah, that's probably the fuel dripping. Once you get it all cleared up, it should idle real nice. If you can close off the idle mix screw, or screws, then the fuel is getting in from somewhere else and needs to be addressed.
If you have compressed air, I would really try to blow out any and all passages. There's plenty of little holes and such that can get gummy.
When you look at the gas in the carb, is it colored funny? Reddish hue? Brown? Clear? If the car sat for a while, the tank may have some gunk in it which can cause all kinds of headaches.
I'd pull up any/all diagrams you can find on the bbd and make sure that every little hole and orifice gets rodded and blown out with air (if possible).
If you have compressed air, I would really try to blow out any and all passages. There's plenty of little holes and such that can get gummy.
When you look at the gas in the carb, is it colored funny? Reddish hue? Brown? Clear? If the car sat for a while, the tank may have some gunk in it which can cause all kinds of headaches.
I'd pull up any/all diagrams you can find on the bbd and make sure that every little hole and orifice gets rodded and blown out with air (if possible).
Ferdinandbites
Well-Known Member
I didn't put a new fuel filter on after I rebuilt the carb admittedly (I did within days of it but ran the engine a number of times). Big mistake. Never knew a filter could let that kind of junk get by. Makes me think, what is a good filter then, a new one of course. Maybe a Frame would be an superior product? More research. This never ends.
If I close the idle mixture screws the idle WILL die off.
I will blow all out again, including the tubes this time and confirm clear.
I've blown through a few tanks worth but I though it seemed cloudy this last tank full (cant recall ever looking at the color of Premium). I could pump it all out if need be but with the new filter that I will install it should block any further debris. After two tanks I think the fuel, if too bad, should be diluted enough to run sufficiently wouldn't you think?
The diagram it came with seemed sufficient/thorough.
U think I should leave the floats where its at for now or lower them slightly since I will be in there?
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't do much with the floats until you can confirm all passages are clear. If you find any other blockages while cleaning, I'd leave the float level alone. If everything appears clear already, lowering it a little (1/8" or so) may not hurt but be prepared to raise them if you run into WOT issues later ;)
Old cars, the tinkering never ends
Where is your fuel filter? After the pump, right? Filters can still let some gunk get by, but a good one shouldn't let too much pass. There's plenty of discussion here and elsewhere on various filters and their effectiveness. I don't think it needs to be overkilled just yet though. It's probably more to do with varnish than chunky stuff. The color might give you a clue if the tank is a bit rusty though.
I wouldn't run premium either - 87 for a stockish motor is adequate and will burn better in my experience. After a few tanks, I would imagine the old stuff is pretty well diluted, yes.
Ferdinandbites
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't do much with the floats until you can confirm all passages are clear. If you find any other blockages while cleaning, I'd leave the float level alone. If everything appears clear already, lowering it a little (1/8" or so) may not hurt but be prepared to raise them if you run into WOT issues later ;) Let u know what happens
Old cars, the tinkering never ends
Where is your fuel filter? After the pump, right? YES Filters can still let some gunk get by, but a good one shouldn't let too much pass. There's plenty of discussion here and elsewhere on various filters and their effectiveness. I don't think it needs to be overkilled just yet though. It's probably more to do with varnish than chunky stuff (from where? tank? because I had cleaned the bowl really well). The color might give you a clue if the tank is a bit rusty though. On the outside it looks new but, I guess that doesn't necessarily mean much where it counts, on the inside.
I wouldn't run premium either Got it!- 87 for a stockish motor is adequate and will burn better in my experience. After a few tanks, I would imagine the old stuff is pretty well diluted, yes.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
The varnish would be from the car sitting. If it was just parked and let to sit, the fuel and residue in the carb turns to a thick pasty gunk that can be tough to remove. Usually looks like a yellowish crust or stain but is actually dried/evaporated fuel.
Things like seafoam can help break it down and clear it out, to some extent. It wouldn't be a bad idea to soak the parts a bit before trying to blow them out - if you don't mind pulling the carb.
Things like seafoam can help break it down and clear it out, to some extent. It wouldn't be a bad idea to soak the parts a bit before trying to blow them out - if you don't mind pulling the carb.
Ferdinandbites
Well-Known Member
Ferdinandbites
Well-Known Member
Looking back at my posts, the second video I posted, although I have made a number of changes since, it's pretty much how it still runs. You might want to turn the volumn up on it and at one point I get a little closer to the breather. That's on page 3 a little past the half way down the page.
Ferdinandbites
Well-Known Member
you are so right right now.
u know how to turn off messages being sent to my email?
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You can twist perceptions, reality won't budge
Maybe you could start a new thread, asking if someone has a loaner carb for quick testing purposes, just promise not to mess with it! LOL
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Just an FYI.
When I have suspected plugged up idle circuits I pull the screws out, shoot the holes with a good blast of WD40 and then hit it with air.
The WD40 has a lot more mass to it and can carry crap out better than just air alone.
Here's a before of the Wife's 72 3 barrel that I had to do it with.
If theres that much in the bowl, you can imagine what the fuel ports in the rest of it were like.
When I have suspected plugged up idle circuits I pull the screws out, shoot the holes with a good blast of WD40 and then hit it with air.
The WD40 has a lot more mass to it and can carry crap out better than just air alone.
Here's a before of the Wife's 72 3 barrel that I had to do it with.
If theres that much in the bowl, you can imagine what the fuel ports in the rest of it were like.
Ferdinandbites
Well-Known Member
Yup that's exactly what I found this evening in it much to my surprise after I already redid the carb. Runs mint now. Wait, ok, it really does. Well, a little blip at idle infrequenty but not a single stumble in gear. Now for the road test tomorrow.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Nice.
Sorry for scaring you about the converter, but it sure acted like it.
In the video it was hard to tell the missing because it was running so fast. (plus video sound is really hard to hear like in person)
Ferdinandbites
Well-Known Member
Hot damn your good, it's been resolved and it's been a day. First thing new fuel filter on it. Took carb apart found all kinds of fine crap in the bowl. Cleaned it all out, everything. Buuut, I found a new gasket that I put on that was wrong,it's the second gasket under where the idle tubes go. Searched through the kit and found a match. Doh. I also saw why fuel was still dripping in. I had to adjust the metering rods down further. And my fast idle was a bit too high keeping the throttle open although the idle screw was turned all the way out which also cause fuel to be drawn out the tubes. Also the one side of the float was a bit higher on the side it was dripping fuel from. So all in all, really, it, as you said, ended up being a series of fine adjustments that lead to the success of getting this thing going once again properly.it sure does run nice in gear. I can't believe how low the idle is and how smoooooth it's running. Just can't believe it at this moment. Now, the big test will be tomorrow, weather permitting to confirm. But for now, I don't know how to thank you and everyone else for this. I'd say come up for a beer guys but I'm a little out of the way unfortunately. Will give a final (fingers crossed) posting in the next few days.
Ferdinandbites
Well-Known Member
No apology needed or expected. I absolutely thought it was too. Can't believe that timing can sound good but cause that stalling to happen. If I had a hoist it would have been out but I procrastinated because I wanted to rule a number of other things that were suggested out. The video sucked because however the image is stabilized it made the engine run appear to run very well when in fact it was crap.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Well there we go then.
If our motors run rough we'll just run them through the Youtube stabilizer.
Excuse me please, I have to go bow to AJ and a few others.
Ferdinandbites
Well-Known Member
HaWell there we go then.
If our motors run rough we'll just run them through the Youtube stabilizer.
Excuse me please, I have to go bow to AJ and a few others.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
It really did sound like it! I was convinced despite figuring it was probably a combination of small factors..
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Awesome! Glad to hear it's getting better and better. Hopefully you get to enjoy it some this season
Ferdinandbites
Well-Known Member
Awesome! Glad to hear it's getting better and better. Hopefully you get to enjoy it some this season
I think I will be enjoying it much more now. Last year I came close to getting rid of it. What a complete shame that would have been for the things that have been corrected now.
When I sat in the engine compartment to work on the carb I guess I leaned on the top of the rad, now the thing leaks. But eh, that's a known problem and the least of a concern at this point.
That reminds me of something else I saw last night. When I looked down the carb at the throttle plates I saw what looked like condensation on them (I'm sure this is why there is a heat riser). Also when I got to the bowl area the fuel in it did look a little weird. There were swirls of what looked like two different, non compatible, liquids. Like sugar when first mixed with water. Maybe it was my bright trouble light showing me something I had never look in detail at with fuel before. Trying to think of where else I've seen this before. Maybe when u look at antifreeze up close. Its like a thicker, denser liquid being mixed. If you ever made wine and used the hydrometer when the high content of sugar mixture is tested in the tube that's what it looks like. Maybe I'll get some fuel and add a drop or two of water just to see if it produces the same results. Maybe this is normal when looking up close like that, the properties of fuel?
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Probably condensation that collected, and that real fine rust usually comes from inside the steel fuel lines.
Ferdinandbites
Well-Known Member
Awesome! Glad to hear it's getting better and better. Hopefully you get to enjoy it some this season
Took he beast out for a ride and it did not stall!!! In gear it runs very well with the odd stumble. At idle it stumbles a little more but better once warmed up, choke off. I think the carb has some issues but I'm alright with that for now. No more burning of the eyes. Its on its way for a muffler and tail pipe which should improve the ride too. It does ping a bit, more so off the start. It concerns me a bit but don't want the stalling issues to return if I change the timing back. Plenty of power.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Pinging is always bad. The advance may be coming in too fast, or your vacuum can needs to be adjusted, or try a higher grade of fuel.
The stumble could be carb related, but I would take a look at your spark plugs and make sure they're clean and happy still.
Ferdinandbites
Well-Known Member
I had a higher grade of fuel in it (not to test for pining) and someone suggested to run regular. Just filled it up but next tank could try the best fuel.
No vacuum can on it and it looks factory. The line comes from the side of carb.
Looked at plugs before the great carb redo but I could always look at them again. They are new. The old ones looked new too but I had to be sure they weren't a problem.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
I had recommended 87, but if it pings it might need more.
You say the line comes from the side of the carb, where does it go? If it connects to the distributor, you have a vacuum advance can on it and the vacuum line is attached to it.
First, I'd do the following:
Reduce timing to 4 degrees BTDC (with vacuum at the distributor disconnected) and see if the pinging goes away.
If it does, adjust idle settings as necessary and keep it there.
If it doesn't, you may need to look into fuel delivery. Depending on how it pings (continuous when accelerated at full throttle, or only a little then goes away, or only appears at part throttle tip-in?) it could be accelerator pump, fuel pressure, float level, or something still plugged up a little. A better description of when and how it pings would help folks help you out. It's tough to walk people through it on the internet and is something that must be felt/heard to understand it (maybe another video?).
I would still check plugs and ensure they still look new and that your wires and everything have solid connection with a dab of dielectric grease on the connections (prevents corrosion which in turn reduces spark quality).
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