Standard 6 blade water pump

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dartfreak75

dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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Im starting to plan my next engine build its gonna be a true low budget build not like my current one where I ended up replacing and buying everything. For a mid to mild build are the factory 6 blade pumps adequate? I put an 8 on my current 360 and have no problems I have several of the factory 6 blades laying in storage thinking about using one.
 
I guess it depends a little on your area but I have used six blades many time without any problems here in Oregon.
 
Why wouldn't it be? A/C cars had them from the factory if I recall. If you're worried, overdrive the w/p like the A/C cars did with those 6-blade pumps.
 
mopowers said:
Why wouldn't it be? A/C cars had them from the factory if I recall. If you're worried, overdrive the w/p like the A/C cars did with those 6-blade pumps.
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I thought ac cars came with 8? And non ac was ?
I thought the more performance you would need a higher flow pump.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Im starting to plan my next engine build its gonna be a true low budget build not like my current one where I ended up replacing and buying everything. For a mid to mild build are the factory 6 blade pumps adequate? I put an 8 on my current 360 and have no problems I have several of the factory 6 blades laying in storage thinking about using one.
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Maybe. Let us know.
You know what fewer blades does.
So when would fewer blades be an issue?
 
The most important thing about WPs & efficiency seems to be missed in these discussions. It is not the number of blades, shape or diam. It is the clearance between the moving blade & whatever they back up against. If this gap is large, the blades just churn up the water.....but capture little of it to pump into the engine. Get this gap as small as possible & you reduce the escape route for the water, & more water gets captured by the blades & pumped into the engine.
 
My original 1970 Swinger 340 came with the heavy duty cooling system, 7 blade clutch fan, and the upgraded (A11?) alternator per the build sheet. It uses the ancient RV2 compressor using R12. It was extremely good at cooling i9n the hottest climates. Unfortunately, if you haven't stashed some R-12, you'll have to upgrade to a Vintage Air or similar system. Your filters and TVX valves need to work properly.
 
Referring to my post #7.
On a non-Mopar engine, the open gap of the impeller blades was reduced from 1/4" down to less than 1/16" & temp dropped 10* with no other changes. Mopar or not, they all work the same.
 
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