Started on the 72 swinger

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We got the back window and the reveal moulding installed. We tried to install the vinyl trim moulding but the clips I got where to big. After a lot of searching I found out this is a common problem and no one really says where to get the correct clips. I talked to Tom at R/T specialties and he said he has the right clips now so I ordered them. Hopefully they are the right ones. I’ll follow up on it so others have the right info if they ever need them. Here is a picture of the window and the wrong clips on the studs.

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I got the new clips for the vinyl top trim moulding in the mail today. They look like they will work. I’m working on the car Saturday and will find out.

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My father in law painted my dash and steering column this evening. It looks like they turned out pretty nice. We used a urethane paint with a flattening agent added to it. Ditzler‘s paint code still worked so we gave the paint shop the code and they mixed it up.

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I got my rear wheels back today from weldcraft. They changed my back space to the 5 3/8” I needed to center the wheels in the back wheel opening. I never opened the wheels and measured to see if they had the correct back space from Vintiques and wish I would have. They were supposed to have 4 1/2” BS which wasn’t what I needed anyways but they came with 4 3/16” which is not even close. I called Vintiques and they said it had been too long and there wasn’t anything they would do. So poor quality control on their part. Weldcraft did a great job moving the centers and they were pretty quick about it too.

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Can I ask where you got the dash pad from. I will be looking for a blue one in the near future.

Carl
 
We tried the vinyl moulding trim clips and they barely worked. You really have to hit the trim to get them to work but they are on and held tight.

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I got my wiper motor back today. I sent it out to a guy on eBay who does wiper motor restorations. His work looks pretty good and he was the best price I found at about $300 including the shipping. He had it done in a week which is pretty fast. I need to get the rubber grommets and a connector for it now. But at least I can get it bolted in and then I can put my dash in. I was waiting since it’s a lot easier with the dash out.

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I got some work done on the Dart today after work. I installed the Darts dash and the new A/C unit and it’s controls. The A/C is a retrofit unit from Classic Auto Air that you modify your existing controls and it looks factory installed. The factory control arm cables are removed and you install a new three speed on off switch and two petrometer switches that control servos and the condenser pump with a control module. The directions call for you to use the factory accessory circuit that the old blower switch used but I didn’t want to because the unit draws 25 amps so I installed a 30 amp relay that will turn on with the old blower motor circuit and switch power I’m getting straight from the battery. I have in line fuses on the A/C units power circuits coming from the load side of the relay. It was a tight fit up under the dash for the relays and the control board. I also got my wiper assembly put back in and my restored wiper motor installed.

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I got some work done on the Dart today after work. I installed the Darts dash and the new A/C unit and it’s controls. The A/C is a retrofit unit from Classic Auto Air that you modify your existing controls and it looks factory installed. The factory control arm cables are removed and you install a new three speed on off switch and two petrometer switches that control servos and the condenser pump with a control module. The directions call for you to use the factory accessory circuit that the old blower switch used but I didn’t want to because the unit draws 25 amps so I installed a 30 amp relay that will turn on with the old blower motor circuit and switch power I’m getting straight from the battery. I have in line fuses on the A/C units power circuits coming from the load side of the relay. It was a tight fit up under the dash for the relays and the control board. I also got my wiper assembly put back in and my restored wiper motor installed.

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Looking good..................She's gonna' be nice!
 
Looking good..................She's gonna' be nice!
Thanks the Classic Auto Air directions are horrible and you definitely don’t want to use your cars factory accessory circuits. You would melt your harness for sure with that much amp draw. I’m hoping to get a bunch more work done this weekend.
 
I cut out my new door panels and finished my A/C drain. ClassicAutoAir is supposed to supply a 90 degree but they don’t so I picked up one at Lowes along with some more drain tube so I could route it nicely. I also bought a rubber grommet for the hole and a strap for the drain hose. I think it looks nice. I also picked up a connector for the wiper motor.

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Here my new panel next to my original one. The legendary panels are nice but I had to make a spot for a clip they didn’t have punched out.

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I made a new glove box for the dart. The one that classic air gives you is garbage. It doesn’t fit at all. I bought a used plastic glove box and cut the first few inches off and then I cut the junk one from classic air and I screwed them together and dry fitted it and made sure it would fit. Then I used some plastic weld and glued it together and used it to fill in the gaps and seems. Then after it hardened I sanded it down and shot it with raptor bed liner. It turned out pretty nice. I also drilled the 1” hole for the light lens. Here are some pictures of the junk classic air glove box in the car. You can see how poorly it fits and some more picture of the finished product and some steps from in between.

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I had to get a new bezel for my cluster because my original one got cracked. I found a decent used one from another member on this site for $50. I painted it today after work. It’s a little bit of a pain because you have to mask off a couple times for all the colors. It came out ok but I have a couple spots I will need to touch up with a brush.

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