Starting problems

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EL5DEMON340

EL5DEMON340

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My RR was always started after a week or two with a 5 sec crank, pump gas 3 times, crank again and good to go. But lately i crank it for 5 sec about 4 or 5 times with no start i know its getting fuel then after the 4th or 5th crank as i release the key i feel a shutter or something like the ignition got a spark, then boom fires right up and runs fine, also notice when running the fuseable link is warm is this normal, i have replaced the coil old one seemed to draw down a lot of voltage. I'm leaning to a possible bad Ign switch. Thanks
 
BTW this only happends about half the time, and never happens after i drive to a cruise and park for an hour or two.
 
after 5 or 6 long cranks then i feel a shudder as i turn the key back to run and it will usually start right up, sometimes it starts just fine... heres a pic of the junk.

68 RR 383 4-speed (43) (640x480).jpg
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
after 5 or 6 long cranks then i feel a shudder as i turn the key back to run and it will usually start right up, sometimes it starts just fine... heres a pic of the junk.
Click to expand...

Hook a voltmeter to the + side of the coil (digital meter) then crank over the engine and you should be getting battery voltage to the coil while cranking!

If your not getting battery voltage (cranking battery voltage that is) when it's cranking then you might have a wiring/ig. switch issue. It would be ignition 2 on the back of the switch.
 
yes thats what i have to do, when running or key on on its fine with 8.5 or so volts to the coil.
 
Think it should have 12v at crank. This new gas evaporates very fast. Carb could be not full.
 
Had a similar problem with slant 6, drove me nuts. Check the ignition module for grounding. New paint could be preventing proper contact (as can rust hidden behind the module). Intermittent problem could be caused by marginal contact being improved by vibration of initial cranking. Remove module, clean bolts and contact area around bolt holes, reinstall.
 
Sounds like a bad ignition switch. The terminals in them get worn over time and it's probably not supplying power when cranking.
 
green1 said:
Think it should have 12v at crank.
Click to expand...

It's extremely rare to see 12 volts at the coil when cranking due to the load the starter puts on the battery and voltage drop in the wiring. Most of the time 11.5-11.8 is about the most you'll see. I've even seen some down in the 10's when cranking.
 
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