Steering column clearance to headers

[340_duster]

I am currently building my own 68 super stock clone Barracuda, and I am in the process of mounting my brackets to the K frame for the engine. I am using factory style reproduction mounts, on a clean v8 k frame, with TTI headers. I have followed their instructions, and would like to know if anyone, could tell me the actual clearance they were able to obtain between the steering column shaft and #7 pipe. Also has anyone had to move the steering gear box outboard to obtain clearance for this location?

 

[ssba]

I had to move the steering box closer to the framerail
using hooker headers.
It was due to cyl#5 tube preventing the factory coupler from rotating.
No7 tube has about 1/2" clearance to the steering column pipe. Column pipe has 1/8" clearance to the head/valve cover back toward the firewall with the
outer column tube cut short. These photos are what I had before steering box was moved over about 1/2-3/4". Ugh pics didn't load. Will try again.

 

[ssba]

#3 5 & 7 before moving steering box.

 

[ssba]

I probably should have mentioned I built this frame before Tti was an option so it may not be to their specs.

 

[ssba]

I went out and measured the engine location on my
homebuilt k-frame.
Surprisingly it is the same as shown in this photo I found while looking for the tti spec's. I believe this photo must be the guide for engine placement using the tti headers?
There really isn't any room for much deviation from these measurements with the hooker headers I installed. I would expect the same using tti.
I consider it nearly a miracle that the headers went on my car at all when I seen how close they are. But they did with only needing little dents to clear the torsion bars.
I built my frame before the days of tti without any measurements. I went off of photos I took of a few original cars mounts I took at at a car show. The engines were in place blocking any real view of the entire frame. I didnt even have a pair of headers yet to check the fit with and had to make my own brackets to weld to the frame. I based them off a B-body Hemi k-frame. The reality of it is it is a lot easier
to do than it is to explain or write up a how to.
I did have to spend a lot of time researching and fabing brackets to weld on that can be bought today.
An 1/8" clearance is about all you can expect to have at the torsion bars and rear of valve cover rail on the driver side. The larger 2 1/4" tubes that are available today are much tighter than the smaller tube headers these cars were built with at Hurst.
If I wanted to replace the factory steering coupler with a swivel. Or dent the #5 tube a bit I would not have had to move the steering box over at all.
I would never expect the same fit from car to car,
frame to frame, brackets to brackets or block to block. It doesn't take much difference between two of the same part to get a stack up of tolerances within these parts combined to use up the 1/8" clearance that these cars generally have. I consider every install
a custom fit to the car.

 

[ssba]

These are the measurements where mine ended up. Not my photo, stolen from internet.

 

[340_duster]

These are the measurements where mine ended up. Not my photo, stolen from internet.

View attachment 1714964634

Thanks so much for checking and posting of your photos, can i ask 1 more question?
What is the distance from the rear of your block, the face where the transmission bolts up to, to the front of firewall. Thanks again.
Bob

 

[ssba]

Bob I relied on the transmission mount to locate engine front to rear. I used the 73 up spool type
trans crossmember with the urethane inserts for a firmer or more stable mounting. Mostly for how they help keep the clutch linkage more precise.
As the pictures show rear of block is only about an inch from the firewall. The passenger head is even closer.
I started by blocking the body up stabil using a bubble level to get a solid level reference side to side. I installed the k-frame next that had been cleaned of its engine mounting brackets. Dont forget the 1/2" spacers that go between frame and rails.
I bolted all the engine mounts, frame brackets and transmission to the engine block. Set it in and bolted in the trans mount.
Then I placed the level across the top of the front intake rail to level engine to match the leveled body.
I didn't have a crank height measurement so I used my oil pan that the center link went thru to confirm steering clearance lock to lock.
I also didn't have heads or headers at the time but If I did I would have used them to confirm fit with the torsion bars before tacking brackets onto the frame. I did have to trim my frame brackets a bit to get them to settle in low enough but they were homemade. I'm not sure on how well the parts fit that come in the kit. The driver side horizontal engine mount bolt head needed to be about 5/16" from the k-frame.
This was the closest I had to any interference getting the engine low enough to be at the correct height.
Being that you have your heads and headers and torsion bars you can precisely adjust all the tight spots before doing any tack welding.

 

[340_duster]

Bob I relied on the transmission mount to locate engine front to rear. I used the 73 up spool type
trans crossmember with the urethane inserts for a firmer or more stable mounting. Mostly for how they help keep the clutch linkage more precise.
As the pictures show rear of block is only about an inch from the firewall. The passenger head is even closer.
I started by blocking the body up stabil using a bubble level to get a solid level reference side to side. I installed the k-frame next that had been cleaned of its engine mounting brackets. Dont forget the 1/2" spacers that go between frame and rails.
I bolted all the engine mounts, frame brackets and transmission to the engine block. Set it in and bolted in the trans mount.
Then I placed the level across the top of the front intake rail to level engine to match the leveled body.
I didn't have a crank height measurement so I used my oil pan that the center link went thru to confirm steering clearance lock to lock.
I also didn't have heads or headers at the time but If I did I would have used them to confirm fit with the torsion bars before tacking brackets onto the frame. I did have to trim my frame brackets a bit to get them to settle in low enough but they were homemade. I'm not sure on how well the parts fit that come in the kit. The driver side horizontal engine mount bolt head needed to be about 5/16" from the k-frame.
This was the closest I had to any interference getting the engine low enough to be at the correct height.
Being that you have your heads and headers and torsion bars you can precisely adjust all the tight spots before doing any tack welding.

View attachment 1714964665

View attachment 1714964666

Thanks so very much, you have confirmed for me that my engine is still to far forward. I did exactly the procedure you described, but I relied on the RH bracket to k frame fit to set my fore aft position, the trans is bolted to the crossmember, but I have a cheap rubber mount that must be deflecting and i can not see it. I will be once again going over all my measurements and correcting as needed. Hopefully the 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch I am forward will provide enough clearance to the steering shaft, once I move it rearward.

 

[ssba]

The first picture above of #3 tube gives you an idea of how it can't go together very far out of place frt to rear. Headers to torsion bars and steering box won't let you go far out of spec side to side.
It really only fits in a very precise spot when using stock style mounts because of the headers. If you have 1/8" clearance in spots you are doing very well.
I wasn't able to double check as much as you can having all your parts. The more parts you install the
better you can confirm you are where you need to be.
I do feel I got a bit lucky not having any heads or headers when building my K-member.