Steering column collar problem....HELP!

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360Scamp

Mopar or No Car
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Nov 12, 2013
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Herrin, IL
Im in the process of converting my auto on the column to auto/manual in the floor and I have got the steering wheel off and took the screws out of the turn signal cam and the screws holding it to the other collar and the snap ring around the steering shaft and once I tried to pull the first collar off it started to pull the steering shaft with it. Do I need a puller to get the first collar off?

 
I also noticed that there is a bearing inside the first collar and thats why I was wondering if thats why I would need a puller
 
The steering shaft can be a tight fit in that upper bearing. You can try tapping on the shaft. That should help it out of the bearing. If you don't have a rubber hammer, put the nut back on so you don't mess up the threads. You shouldn't have to hit it hard. Just tap slightly. It should come out of the bearing once the snap ring is off.
 
The shaft is designed to collapse in a head-on collision. Tapping on it could damage the slip joint (the plastic pins that hold the two pieces of the shaft together at a specific length). That's one reason the FSM tells you not to do it. You might get lucky but if the upper section won't wiggle off, the correct way is to use a puller. You can fab one.

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Remover%20Tool%20installed.jpg
 
I just separated the inner and outer shafts on my column. I replaced the short PS lower shaft with the longer manual piece. They don't separate easily. If they do collapse, they can be pulled apart again.

There aren't really plastic "pins" holding them together. The upper(inner) shaft has notches in it. Plastic was injected into...and filled those notches. What look like "pins" are just the left over plastic sticking out from where the injection was done. They aren't really doing anything.

That puller looks like a nice tool to have though.
 
Yeah, I understand the whole plastic injection thing - "pins" is just how everyone seems to refer to the joint since that's what's most visible externally. My point was to help avoid other potential problems.
 
Thanks 70duster440, i guess im gonna have to find one of the turn signal cam retainers to make a puller to get mine off
 
No problem. I hope it comes apart without too much trouble.
 
Also does anyone know what the part number of the bearing is thats in the collar? Just in case I cant get the bearing out of the collar?
Thanks
 
Thanks 70duster440, i guess im gonna have to find one of the turn signal cam retainers to make a puller to get mine off

If you choose to make a tool I'm sure you could come up with a substitute or fab something - like a large fender washer with screw holes in the right position. I had an extra retainer so that was the quickest/easiest thing to use at the time.

I got my bearing off of ebay at the time but Mrmoparts sells them. http://www.mrmoparts.net/steering-column-bearing-upper-bearing-all-models/

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Well I tried again today to take my steering column apart and to no avail, I tried everything including a puller. I guess im gonna have to make one like in the previous post.
 
If you choose to make a tool I'm sure you could come up with a substitute or fab something - like a large fender washer with screw holes in the right position. I had an extra retainer so that was the quickest/easiest thing to use at the time.

I got my bearing off of ebay at the time but Mrmoparts sells them. http://www.mrmoparts.net/steering-column-bearing-upper-bearing-all-models/

upperbearingimg_01.jpg


I ordered this bearing from my local Mopar dealer and it was $12, just trying to help anyone else out if they need one.
 
Well i made my puller this week and Im gonna tackle the steering collar conversion this weekend. Only problem I have is I got the bearing that was mentioned in earlier posts for my collars and its too small!

Does anyone know if my new collars could be 73/up or what, now I have to find the correct bearing. When I get home I will take pics of what I have going on
 
70 and up should use the same bearing. By the way, I have taken apart literally dozens of those columns and collars, bone yard units too, and never once needed a puller. As long as the snap ring and 3 screws are undone, and the turn signal stuff is out of the way it should come apart. If it's sticky I take a big flat bladed screwdriver and pry slightly where the turn signal arm space is cast into the collar. If its really tight I take a 2nd screwdriver and use both to pry 180 degrees apart, at like 3 o clock and 9 o clock. Works every time, and I've never hurt the 'plastic pins' yet. I have plenty of those bearings, used. They usually just need a good cleaning and a little grease. Unless its severely rusty you should be ok. Just wash it in a parts washer or use some carb cleaner or brake cleaner and spin it while soaking it with cleaner til it spins free with no tight spots. Then repack with a little wheel bearing grease.
 
Thanks Airgrabber, whats the best way to get the old bearing out to reuse it?
 
The bearing should be held in place by nothing but the c clip. If you have that off it should come out with the top collar, then pop it out from the backside of the collar. There's a rubber sleeve around the outside of it, and, believe it or not, a metal staple (?!?) in the rubber that helps to hold it in place in the collar.

Some advise about your swap. I usually pull the whole column out of the car when doing the swap, because you may want to remove the shift tube. It 'might' get in the way of the bottom collar. I've never tried doing a swap where I left the shift tube in place, so I can't say. Try it, and let me know.
I usually have to paint the collars, so I usually bead blast all the other parts and paint them while I'm at it. Once the collars are off all that's left is the collapsible tube and the center shaft. I rebuild the steering coupler pot coupling then, too. Usually the rubber seal is wasted and the grease has turned to tar. It can be a PITA to get the steel clamp back on the pot coupling but it's doable with a vise to crimp the metal tabs around the raised bumps in the end of the coupler.
If your bottom collar uses a return spring for returning the collar to its normal position after unlocking the key, you may need to drill a small hole in your collapsible tube at about the 11 o'clock position. One more reason why you may want to pull the column. See this picture - hope this helps.
 

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