steering couplier removal ??

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grassy

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Hi,

The torsion bars are out.
Front shocks unbolted (top).
Removed the nuts on the top UCA..we have left the bolts in place for now.
We have taken off the one splash shield..are there suposed to be two ?
We have sprayed penitrating oil on the 4 K-frame bolts.

How do you take off the steering wheel couplier ?

Then pop the 4 bolts in the UCA and undo the k frame bolts and all the front suspension should come off ? Do you suport it with a jack or something ?

Thanks
ian.
 
Some couplers have a roll pin and some have a bolt. If it is a pin punch it out with a narrow punch, or take the bolt out. Then unscrew all the interior steering column bolts. Now the steering column will pull straight out.

Is the motor still in the car or is it a bare K-frame ?
 
Johnny,

The motor is out. All we see is a whole that goes all the way through..thought it was an allen bolt until we slipped a key in. Would there have been a bolt there ? Or, do we punch the tube out.

Rather not pull the steering column out at this point but will this be a necessity ?

I am thinking the steering unit will drop with the K-frame ?

Thanks
ian.
 
If you look in the hole, you will see the tube.. find a punch that just fits in the hole and start tapping.

Definitely setup a jack with some type of platform to balance the K-member on. I always raise the jack setup right to the K-member. That way you are not going to put the weight of the K assembly on the bolts or threads when removing them, preventing stripping and breaking them. The K-assembly with stuff is heavy, and with the steering box attached it is no way near balanced, so be prepared for it to ship and slip. Again, a couple of stands or blocks of wood on the sides will save it from falling.


Grant
 
Grant,

We are taking afew days off..I am heading off to a reunion ....we will do this on saturday.

Heavy bits that are in the air that drop when you pull bolts out can be interesting. however, feels good when completed.

Thank-you.
Ian.
 
Warning. If you drive the roll pin out and pull on the column or steering wheel you can/will pull the coupling apart. You dont want that thing to come apart unless it needs rebuilt.
With the wheels pointed straight ahead the msater spline not seen will be on top, A notch in the lower edge of the coupling will be on top and the roll pin will be on the inner side.
After the bolts are out of the column at firewall and under dash support, drive the pin out. Place a ball joint splitter between the bottom of the coupling and the steering gear and push the coupling up and off the splines. If you intend to remove the column from the car be careful coming through the hole in the firewall. To snag there can pull the coupling apart too.
Like I said , you dont want that thing to come apart. Hope this helps.
 
Redfish, what is a ball joint splitter ? Can I jury rig something else up ? Would it help to wind duct tape around it after it has been slid off ?

thanks, ian.
 
Some call it a pickle fork. A carpenters cat claw could work too.
The top is crimped on the box ( like a bottle cap ) with a rubber seal between the two. The key is push from the bottom up.
I dont think duct tape would help.
 
Rather not pull the steering column out at this point but will this be a necessity ?

I am thinking the steering unit will drop with the K-frame ?

Thanks
ian.[/QUOTE]

You dont need to pull the column all the way out. By taking the column bolts out, you will be able to pull it just far enough out of the way, and off of the steering box. I have never had to use a pulller to take the column/coupler off the steering box,guess I have been lucky.Have one person pull on the steering wheel, while another person pulls on the coupler. Should pop right off.

The steering box stays on the k-frame for removal.

To remove the k-frame rest the k-frame/car on top of a dolly with an old tire on it. Unscrew the k-frame bolts, and jack the car up onto jack stands.

Since your going this far, build a jig out of square tubing, and bolt it to the bumper bolts. You can also install the motor and trans this way.Lift the car up, roll the motor/trans in. Slick as a whistle.
Its really easier than it looks.
 

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Redfish, Gotcha, my friend has one. We are moving from a column shift to a floor shift so the column has to come out. We are just trying to take it in finite chunks so the project doesn't get away from us.

Johnny,

Very intriguing. It saves all that metal coming down on you...I can build one out of wood.

My son and I have been pondering how we were going to get everything back in..If you don'y mind, could I PM you when we almost get to that point. BTW, I have no..zero..welding skills anymore hence me using wood...nd raw metal is very expensive down here...

thanks.
Will be back saturday
Ian.
 
Redfish, Gotcha, my friend has one. We are moving from a column shift to a floor shift so the column has to come out. We are just trying to take it in finite chunks so the project doesn't get away from us.

Johnny,

Very intriguing. It saves all that metal coming down on you...I can build one out of wood.

My son and I have been pondering how we were going to get everything back in..If you don'y mind, could I PM you when we almost get to that point. BTW, I have no..zero..welding skills anymore hence me using wood...nd raw metal is very expensive down here...

thanks.
Will be back saturday
Ian.


PM me....No problem
BTW: If you look at the construction of the medal jig, it is all bolted together.
No welding necessary.
 
If you dont have a drift punch that size.. A bolt that size will work in a pinch. lube it up first then make sure the bolt is out where it meets the box. drive that roll pin out. Then it probably wont separate... Carefully if your motor is removed you can put the floor jack under the K frame.. Lower it JUST A TAD not enought to put tons of strain on the column. Use a BIG screw driver or pry bar and carefully pry it apart. If you get it a little ways and run out of room lower the jack some more and repeat.
 
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