Step by step worm gear and ball nut reassembly

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Miranthis

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For background I have an original 16:1 fast ratio manual steering box from my 1966 Barracuda that long ago lost an ear on the case. I recently disassembled the car to put it on the rotisserie and with both the replacement 24:1 box and the original box off the car I decided to swap cases, so a rebuild was in order. I have detailed some of the disassembly elsewhere along with some questions I had along the way. I will post the box reassembly with the Firm Feel and other parts. In order to do that I needed to disassemble, clean, and reassemble the worm gear and ball nut. Some folks say just soak the ball nut/worm gear assembly in mineral spirits and then regrease, but I am too curious to avoid disassembly and inspection. AND, you can bet that the thing will fail upon final completion of the car would be anything I do not fully disassemble and inspect. This steering rebuild is also a MUCH harder job with the box ON the car.

I just completed this part of the project. Given nearly no info on this otherwise, I thought I would summarize what advice I did get and show the reassembly step by step for those interested.

After disassembly you have the following parts (plus the ball bearings).
20250313_225904.jpg


clockwise from lower left corner you have the Ball Nut, ball guide screws, ball guide clamp, worm gear (this is the 16:1 gear), and the 4 halves of the ball guides. In addition there are, in the fast ratio worm gear, 54 ball bearings. I have read that the 24:1 version has fewer, but be careful with your disassembly and don't lose any balls. I used the gallon bucket of Gunk Parts Cleaner and the basket to make sure I did not lose them The ball bearings are split into two separate circuits so I have split the bearings into two groups of 27 ball bearings.
20250313_225926-1.jpg

Judging only by pictures of the other ratio ball nuts it looks like everyone has two independent recirculating groups, so my guess is you should have an even number of ball bearings, so split them into two same-sized groups.

Before you put the worm gear in the ball nut you need to confirm the proper orientation of the ball nut, as the sector shaft and ball nut have meshing teeth that can only fit one way. The teeth are all long wedge shaped and the wedges of the sector gear point DOWN, and interlace with the ball nut’s teeth, so the ball nut teeth need to point UP. For LHD the worm gear is on the left of the sector shaft so, hold the worm in your left hand and insert it into the ball nut with the ball nut teeth on the right side and the teeth facing UP. See the orientation in this picture.
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Before you assemble the two, slather some NGLI#2 grease of your choice on the worm gear.
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The pieces should mesh like this:

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Then set the worm/nut pair down on the worksurface with the teeth on the bottom. This will leave the ball recirculation holes facing up. You want to slide the worm, which is very loose in the ball nut, until the ball channel of the worm lines up with the channel in the ball nut. Then you can take the first half of your ball bearings and work them into the left side circuit. I used a pencil with the eraser removed, but any sufficiently small diameter utensil with work as you will be greasing the ball bearings and stuffing them in the hole. The goal is to get the thread channel between the upper left and lower left holes filled with ball bearings.

20250313_230709-4.JPG


If you insert them in the upper left side hole you need to make sure you do not let them migrate toward you and to the left (see arrow) or past the lower left hole toward the screw hole, as they need to go only down into the thread channel between the .

20250313_230709-2.JPG


Once you get about 17 or 18 loaded in you should see them coming up in the bottom left hole (the grease will show up first as it is pressed along). At this point you will want to make sure that 19 of them are in the worm channel, at least for the 16:1 ratio worm.

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[CONTINUED IN THE NEXT POST]

20250313_230709-1.jpg
 
[CONTINUED]

The remaining ball bearings will be loaded into the ball guide. To do that you first butter half of the channel with grease. Then place the remaining 8 ball bearings in that half.

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Then lightly butter the other half and put them together. The ends should look like this.

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Now take the U-Shaped ball guide and work it into the two holes as shown. It should slide in with a little wiggling and gentle pressure and be flush with the surface of the ball nut. Don’t pound it and don’t force it. It should slide in once properly orientated.

20250313_231839-1.jpg


Its ok to rotate the worm gear a bit back and forth, but just make sure the ball bearings do not go past the holes. Once you have the first ball guide fully seated you can run the worm gear all the way up and down (keep a thumb on the ball guide so it does not come out) and the 27 bearings should be confined between the holes and run through the ball guide. If any ball bearings made it outside of the proper area you will see them in the area where the arrow is, or they will work their way out the end of the assembly as you work the worm up and down. Good to check now.

20250313_232448-1.jpg


The process for the other side is the same. Once you have both ball guides on you can put the ball guide clamp over the ball guides and secure. The two screws go on the ends and the center is fastened with the 5/16 bolt. Make sure you note the spacer that is used in the middle. Make sure these are tight and secure, as if they come loose in-use it’s gonna be a big PITA to correct it and you’ll only have yourself to blame.

20250314_160507.jpg


Now is also a time to double check the orientation of the ball nut and sector gear to make sure you did step one correctly. I laid mine out, one last time, to make sure the orientation of the teeth on the ball nut is the opposite of the sector gear when laid out as set out below.
20250313_232845-1.jpg


Other things to make sure of:

  • All the balls should be sealed in the two circuits that wrap around the worm gear and then go through the ball guides. There should be no balls in the area between the channels or out the ends. Any sneaky ones that escaped on the ends can be seen between the ball guide end and the securing screws, but a sneaky one between the two channels (under the middle screw), will be virtually un-observable. You will just have to be careful.
  • The ball guides are all the same, but I was anal about it and matched them to the wear marks from the ball guide clamp.
  • The different ratio sets have different configurations of the ball guide clamp, owing to the different pitch of the 24:1, 20:1, and 16:1 worm gear sets. I have read that at least the 24:1 set has a different number of ball bearings. Be careful in your disassembly and make a careful count.
  • Once you are fully assembled it will be a good idea to run the gear up and down and pack more grease on it before assembly.
  • When done you should be able to turn the worm gear and its should slide smoothly and firmly with its new grease.
I will supplement this with the case reassembly and adjustment write up shortly.
 

Aaand, I am now at a standstill as the last bearing I needed arrived and is way too tight on the ID and a little loose on the OD. Gonna order another a see if I just got a bad one as I have 3 of these bearings and this one is really tight compared to the other two.... ☹️
 
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