STOCK HEADS OR ALUMINUM AFTERMARKET ?

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justafish

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I HAVE A PAIR OF B BLOCK HEADS DRIVER # 2843906 PASS. #2843900 (1) ARE THESE A GOOD SET OF HEADS TO HAVE REWORKED ? (2) THERE WERE A COUPLE OTHER #'S ON THE HEADS 04090 & 03060 , ARE THEY EVEN A MATCHED SET ? (3) ITS OBVIOUS THAT THERE WOULD BE A SUBSTANTIAL WEIGHT LOSS , BUT WOULD THERE BE ANY ADDITIONAL GAINS ? CRACK THE BOTTLE & STOMP THE THROTTLE ! ! !
 
Go aluminum, not worth the money to do iron and yes weight is a big factor. I just got my Stealth heads and so much better than my 452's
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It depends on the money you're willing to spend. As far as reworked are you referring to a stock set of heads or a performance set of heads? First off if you're wanting a performance set of heads I'd definitely go aluminum. Edelbrock Rpms would be a decent choice for the price. The time and money you'd spend for stainless valves..bronze guides..springs..locks..retainers plus some mild port work would have you tying up more money in them than you could buy a set of Edelbrocks and still not come close to matching the Edelbrocks flow numbers.. If you're going with a stock build on the heads I'd look for some 452's that have the factory hardened seats for unleaded fuel.
 
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Forgot to look I'll check tomorrow, they say they fixed that by going from an 84cc chamber to a 80cc chamber so any gasket will work.
I just wanted to see if there is any recent changes, I matched a Felpro 1009 to a set of Stealth heads and there was no overhang.
Been running the 1009 with no problems.
 
I just wanted to see if there is any recent changes, I matched a Felpro 1009 to a set of Stealth heads and there was no overhang.
Been running the 1009 with no problems.
That's what i ended up with and 440 source says they will work now.
 
Definitely aluminum with N2O. What's the rest of the build going to be like and how far along are you?
 
A cheap set of alloy heads will not improve performance...

Its amazing how dumb we were in the 60's driving muscle cars without aluminum heads. But no one parked their cars to wait for Speedmaster to make heads.

I like my W-2's....
 
In most parts of the country all it takes is a few calls to local machine shops to see what it would cost to refurbish and update a set of factory iron heads to be the equivalent of what you’d be getting with new aftermarket heads.
As in.......All new hardware, oversized valves, increased flow.
And unless you’re starting with 516’s or 915’s....... you still end up with the not particularly pump gas friendly open chambers.

Unless it’s an area of the country where the labor rates are uncharacteristicly low........ something like a pair of Stealths or E Streets usually end up being less expensive than reworking the factory heads.
 
906's are just o.k.. They will need (6) hardened exhaust seats , backcut valves , a valve job , cut for PC seals and magchecked . Do not spend more than $750.00 on them . alloy heads are basically lightweight replacements . Do not just bolt them on. Have them checked first . A composition head gasket must be used with them . NBD . If you have the heads I suggest that you use what you have . If you don't have any go with alloy . Good luck !
 
Ony thing I will say is cast iron seals better aluminum traditionally you need to do a head gasket every once in a while and dont overheat it. there are benefits to both. If I didnt have two sets of 340 heads, Id probably consider Edelbrock aluminum .I still might if I figure its worth the labor to swap out.
 
A cheap set of alloy heads will not improve performance...

Its amazing how dumb we were in the 60's driving muscle cars without aluminum heads. But no one parked their cars to wait for Speedmaster to make heads.

I like my W-2's....
Makes no sense. We have the option now why would anyone choose to use open chamber turd iron heads and sink money into them.
 
In most parts of the country all it takes is a few calls to local machine shops to see what it would cost to refurbish and update a set of factory iron heads to be the equivalent of what you’d be getting with new aftermarket heads.
As in.......All new hardware, oversized valves, increased flow.
And unless you’re starting with 516’s or 915’s....... you still end up with the not particularly pump gas friendly open chambers.

Unless it’s an area of the country where the labor rates are uncharacteristicly low........ something like a pair of Stealths or E Streets usually end up being less expensive than reworking the factory heads.
15yrs ago my local machine shops wouldn't touch iron heads for under a $1,000.
 
15yrs ago my local machine shops wouldn't touch iron heads for under a $1,000.

If I rework a set of old castings to be what I would consider as equivalent as possible to new aftermarket heads(all new parts, over sized valves, improved flow, unleaded gas compatible, springs suitable for an aftermarket performance cam, etc)....... the cost is considerably higher than a set of Stealths.
The stock heads are more expensive even after you give the Stealths a look over.

But, how that shakes out is dependent on what machine shop costs are where you live.
Whereas the Stealths cost the same for the whole country........$1000.
 
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