Strange brake fluid leak...

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DQ81

'73 Dart
Joined
Nov 12, 2008
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Location
The Netherlands (Holland)
73 Dart with front discs fromt the factory, no brake mods:

I've noticed that after every drive in the Dart brake fluid is seeping/leaking out of the side of the master cylinder reservoir, all along...predominantly on the passenger side as if the fluid is coming back up with too much pressure. What could cause this?

My brakes seems to be getting softer as wel. Fluid levels are good. Could it just be as simple as the seal not sealing properly anymore? The reservoir top sits well in place and the clip to hold it is firmly in place.

Haven't noticed any other change in the brakes other than that my brake pedal seems to go a little deeper, although that could just be me thinking it is because I know the reservoir keeps seeping a little...

Ideas?

thanks in advnace
 
73 Dart with front discs fromt the factory, no brake mods:

I've noticed that after every drive in the Dart brake fluid is seeping/leaking out of the side of the master cylinder reservoir, all along...predominantly on the passenger side as if the fluid is coming back up with too much pressure. What could cause this?

My brakes seems to be getting softer as wel. Fluid levels are good. Could it just be as simple as the seal not sealing properly anymore? The reservoir top sits well in place and the clip to hold it is firmly in place.

Haven't noticed any other change in the brakes other than that my brake pedal seems to go a little deeper, although that could just be me thinking it is because I know the reservoir keeps seeping a little...

Ideas?

thanks in advnace

I would like to suggest the aluminum late model master cylinder. I bought mine off ebay with the bracket that converts it over. I always had the big heavy MC on my car and was hard headed about not changing it out... but when I did I could tell a difference in stopping. Mine wasn't leaking but the late model has screw on tops not the clip and hold top. Just a suggestion. Good luck.
 
Thats a good Idea Mullinex.....also I think they sell a new rubber for the top on those help carousel things at the auto stores....
 
I had the same problem with my new master c. I took a peice of cork gaskit and cut a peice out the size of the inside of the lid. Just put it in between the lid and the rubber seal and snapped the lid back on and no more leak. Cheap five minute fix.
 
I would like to suggest the aluminum late model master cylinder. I bought mine off ebay with the bracket that converts it over. I always had the big heavy MC on my car and was hard headed about not changing it out... but when I did I could tell a difference in stopping. Mine wasn't leaking but the late model has screw on tops not the clip and hold top. Just a suggestion. Good luck.


I tried padding the gasket like you did mulinex but unfortunately no go....although I didn't have cork on hand. New gasket comes in tomorrow, see how that holds up, if not I'll pad it with cork as that worked for you no reason it shouldn't for me! lol

What do you mean by 'late model' I have the MC and booster that come stock on a '73 I believe, which is equiped with disc brakes from the factory. Would a picture help? I don't see any kind of adapter bracket...did you notice an increase in brake responsivness? If so I'll swap that out in a heartbeat if I know what model is the "late model"

cheers
 
Here is a picture of mine.


Here is what you need but you don't have to buy it at Mancinis

MC

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/24whdibrmacy.html

Adaptor plate

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mascylad.html


Look around on ebay or local parts houses.... also you can make the adaptor yourself if you choose.

DSC02191.jpg
 
Here is a picture of mine.


Here is what you need but you don't have to buy it at Mancinis

MC

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/24whdibrmacy.html

Adaptor plate

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mascylad.html


Look around on ebay or local parts houses.... also you can make the adaptor yourself if you choose.

Hey cool thanks,

Nice clean engine bay!

Do you not have a booster? Or did you eliminate it on purpose? I get the idea that my (in otherwise good shape) booster makes things squishy...

And off topic, I notice your running PCV valve with an open air filter, does your PCV hose run to a vacuum port on the manifold or to a special PCV port on your carb?
 
Nice clean engine bay!

Thanks .... I did it all myself.

Do you not have a booster?
Or did you eliminate it on purpose? I get the idea that my (in otherwise good shape) booster makes things squishy...

No ... the car didn't have one so it's manual brakes. It has front disc brakes so it isn't bad as it was with drums.


And off topic, I notice your running PCV valve with an open air filter, does your PCV hose run to a vacuum port on the manifold or to a special PCV port on your carb?

I have it hooked to the carb. I don't see why it couldn't be hooked to the intake because it sees the same vacuum as the carb does. I have had a motor that PVC was hooked straight to the manifold years ago with no problems.
 
Mullinax,

I think I'll be running my PCV to a vac port, seems not to draw enough with it connected to the air filter housing....and I'm getting some oil dipstick leakidge due to too much pressure in the block...

Looks great in there, for real man, nice job. So while off topic might as well throw a few other questions at you:

Serpentine belt conversion? Pulleys readily available or something you had to get creative with?

What kind of alternator is that? I want to replace my externally regulated stock alternator with an internally regulated one and a better model in the hopes it will alleviate my classic poor charge at idle issue...any tips or thoughts on that?
 
Mullinax,

I think I'll be running my PCV to a vac port, seems not to draw enough with it connected to the air filter housing....and I'm getting some oil dipstick leakidge due to too much pressure in the block...

That would be thing to do ... make sure on the other valve cover there is a vent.


Serpentine belt conversion? Pulleys readily available or something you had to get creative with?

March pulleys .... found at Summit Racing.

What kind of alternator is that? I want to replace my externally regulated stock alternator with an internally regulated one and a better model in the hopes it will alleviate my classic poor charge at idle issue...any tips or thoughts on that?

It is a 75 amp alternator. My car had the old style charging system with around 35 amps so I switched it out to the later model charging system. When I got all of the parts I went with a 75 Duster to get the late model parts I needed.

I don't have the poor charge at idle any longer. When I installed the later model system, relays on the headlights, and did some http://madelectrical.com/ updates I have a healthy charging system now.

It would be best if you went with the high output alternator but you've got to make sure you also beef up the wiring also. If you just ad a high output alternator you're going to find the weak wiring places quickly! LOL!
 
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