Stripper.

-
circlepilot

circlepilot

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2014
Messages
1,264
Reaction score
1,052
Location
El Dorado, Arkansas
My project is a 65 Barracuda. I've got the body on the rotisserie and I have done some blasting on it, however there are some areas I wasn't planning on blasting, but stripping. I've had good luck with "Klean-Strip," Aircraft paint stripper on numerous types of finishes, but it hardly and I mean hardly touches the factory (car has original paint) paint on my car. I'm open to suggestions.
Norm
 
I thought this was goin a different direction.

STRIPPER.jpg
 

Well here's the thing. The gubmint just banned the active ingredient in all popular paint strippers this year. I don't know how that will affect small purchases, like what parts stores sell. Before I left O'Reilly, they were stilling it with that active ingredient. But to answer your question, I like the aircraft paint stripper best. It's always worked "for me".
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well here's the thing. The gubmint just banned the active ingredient in all popular paint strippers this year. I don't know how that will affect small purchases, like what parts stores sell. Before I left O'Reilly, they were stilling it with that active ingredient. But to answer your question, I like the aircraft paint stripper best. It's always worked "for me".
Click to expand...
All I heard was "stripper" & "rotisserie " and my head went straight to the gutter !
 
63spf said:
All I heard was "stripper" & "rotisserie " and my head went straight to the gutter !
Click to expand...

Sounds like 3 of us had the same thoughts lol! But back on track, the last time I chemically stripped a car, I used IIRC a product called Tal Strip. It is(was) some nasty stuff - better have gloves, long sleeve shirt and face protection - but took the pain off pretty much down to primer and in a lot of cases down to bare metal. Being so nasty I seriously doubt it’s even available to the public nowadays.
 
I also heard the gom'ment took the good stuff out of stripper this year. I don't know. But do this, use aircraft stripper hopefully, it is the strongest. Put it on heavy, put a piece of plastic over it and keep it wet as long as you can, Use a putty knife to scrape, and go back and do it again where it left paint/primer. The original primer/paint as pretty tough!! Be sure to get the stuff out of cracks and everywhere, otherwise you will have big trouble when the prime.
 
Yes, the EPA had methylene chloride removed from consumer use toward the beginning of the year. All you can find on store shelves now is the "improved", and safer product. Check your can to see if it contains methylene chloride. If not, the product will probably not remove automotive paint. I too, found aircraft stripper (the old stuff with a high percentage of MC) to work best. If your product contains methylene chloride try disturbing the surface of the paint with course sandpaper prior to application. Then, as Barbee6043 says, cover the area to keep it moist with the product until it lifts.
 
I got lucky and grabbed a few gallons of aircraft stripper before the ban happened. The good stuff is all but gone, and the others the best chemicals were removed. Thanks Uncle sam. Can you get a spot blaster in there at all?
 
Thanks for the replies. I’ll try the plastic trick that barbee6043 mentioned. I’ve been using the stripper I have ( the “klean-strip) to remove polyurethane from aircraft we repair. It works satisfactory. But! This paint on my Barracuda, is just short of “iron clad.” As the saying goes...”They don’t make-em like they used to.” I have good access with my blaster, I’m wanting to keep the blasting to areas of rust. My major rust is being being replaced with three floor pans and spare tire pan.

31C0BE80-77B0-4350-9ADE-7ECCCBF8D5E5.jpeg


7C0ACDDD-2751-44C8-BEED-601726DC1026.jpeg
 
Lost in the replies was this tidbit:

grimreaper said:
try disturbing the surface of the paint with coarse sandpaper prior to application.
Click to expand...

Here in California, we haven't been able to get good stripper for years. I've found the "green" stuff (some kinda citric acid based crap) actually works pretty good. BUT only if I scuff the surface with 60 grit or coarser sandpaper first.
 
flingdingo said:
Lost in the replies was this tidbit:



Here in California, we haven't been able to get good stripper for years. I've found the "green" stuff (some kinda citric acid based crap) actually works pretty good. BUT only if I scuff the surface with 60 grit or coarser sandpaper first.
Click to expand...

Sorry about that flingdingo, I'm going to give that a shot also. Your right, scuffing the surface will allow the stripper to get better penetration. I haven't tried the green stuff yet, maybe next. Thanks for pointing that out.
Norm​
 
No apologies necessary! I saw that in the middle of grimreaper's post about methylene chloride and wanted to give him credit before I said the same thing.
 
go green , increase your carbon foot print and tell the tree huggers to hug a volcano !!!! :icon_fU:
lazer
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-
Back
Top Bottom