Stroker Questions...

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myasylum

myasylum

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On a 4" Eagle cast crank...

Would I need a different oil pan?

Would I need a different oil pump? I have a Melling, Pt# M-72HV.
That's all.

Thanks!
 
No stoke pan is fine and stock pump, unless you put in ARP bolts or studs, then a mod to the pump and or bolts on rear main is required.

You just need a minor block mod for the rod clearance on a 4" stroker.
But it wont hurt to have a larger oil supply too just the same..
 
Stock pan is fine. Stock windage tray will fit with care taken. I wouldnt use the HV pump. Use an HP or the stocker with the MP high pressure spring kit.
 
You Might Want To Put A Good Pick-up/screen On It, A Buddy Turned Me On To A Miladon Pick-up
 
I think more important than hp oil pumps and springs is baffling the stock pan so you keep oil in the sump for the pick up to stay covered.jmo

I agree the milodon pick up is nice, I have the deep sump version along with their 8 qt pan.
 

djwhog said:
No stoke pan is fine and stock pump, unless you put in ARP bolts or studs, then a mod to the pump and or bolts on rear main is required.

You just need a minor block mod for the rod clearance on a 4" stroker.
But it wont hurt to have a larger oil supply too just the same..
Click to expand...

ARP is kind of naive about Mopars, you need to make sure they under stand what you have and need before you order anything. Most of the ARP bolt kits I got had at least one or two things incorrect in the kit. I had to get 22 bolts and studs replaced before I could use them. ARP does have a bolt that you can use under the oil pump instead of the stud. I got my girdle from Huges Racing and it comes with 9 ARP main studs and an ARP bolt (no washer) for under the oil pump. The oil pump is not thick enough to grind on to get the clearance needed for the washer and nut from the stud kit. The 360 doesn't have as much of a clearance issue as the 340 block but they both have this issue.

If you run an after market oil pickup, make sure it is compatible with a stroker, most are not.

Here's one for you guys running Edlebrock heads and ARP studs. The 10 studs on the inside of the head that ARP uses in their kit were not made correctly in the kit I received, they had 1 1/4" of thread at the bottom instead of 1" like they should which made them about 3/16" too short after they were screwed into the block, I had ARP send me longer studs but after I talked to Edlebrock and a few machinists I know I found out that there were a lot of these sent out that way which makes me wonder how many guys used these and didn't think of or know to check them before they installed them? Concidering you need a minimum of 3-4 threads above the nut when they are torqued down, this can be disaster waiting to happen.
 
I built a 408 with the Eagle forged crank. No problems with HV pump, Milodon pan and windage tray. I didn't have to grind the block with the Eagle I beam rods (cheaper ones). I had big problems with the Probe pistons as they hit the crank throws and had to mill 0.200" off of the piston bosses! Probe was totally disinterested.
 
The only issues with the HV pump is lost power and some heat development because it's trying to compress a fluid. Make sure you use the MP performance dsitributor drive with it.
 
It is the drive shaft that has the gear that engages the camshaft to turn the oil pump and distributor. The MP unit has a hardened tip so it will not round off and leave you without a working oil pump.
 
1MeanA said:
I built a 408 with the Eagle forged crank. No problems with HV pump, Milodon pan and windage tray. I didn't have to grind the block with the Eagle I beam rods (cheaper ones). I had big problems with the Probe pistons as they hit the crank throws and had to mill 0.200" off of the piston bosses! Probe was totally disinterested.
Click to expand...

If you are running a standard 6.123" rod then you should grind the crank, not the piston. The cranks are meant to be fitted since no piston will clear the crank right out of the box. There isn't enough material between the pin and the bottom of the piston to get the clearance needed. You should have a minimum of about an 1" between the pin and the bottom of the piston, mine has .990 and both speed shops I dealt with and my machinist thought that was thin. There should be at least .060 thousands clearance between the piston and the crank throw. If you took .200 off the bottom of the piston this means you only have around .800 material between the pin and the bottom of the piston with a 6.123 rod and that will be risky if you get into the RPM's

The MP is a Mopar Performance drive gear, it's the shaft that drives the pump and distributor off the cam. If you are running a roller cam, you will need a bronze gear.

A HV oil pump with a 7-9 quart pan is what you want if you are running any kind of RPM's. The HP pump will have the pressure but not the quantity/volume needed to keep up at higher RPM's. You only need around 20-25 pounds of oil pressure at idle (hot) and 10-15 pounds for every 1000 RPM's that the engine is turning when driving up to around 4000 RPM's then around 10 per 1000 after that.
 
Blownfish said:
That's the one, if you are running a standard flat tappet cam. If it is a roller, you will need the bronze gear and they are double that price.
Click to expand...

Only if it's a solid roller. Hydraulic roller don't need the bronze gear.
 
So I should be safe with the cheaper one since it is a Hydraulic Flat Tappet cam? From what I understand, that's the case.
 
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