Strut Rod Bushing

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straightlinespeed

straightlinespeed

Sometimes I pretend to be normal
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Working on my 71 Scamp and I thought I had a 2 piece strut rod bushing. Well turns out mine were 1 piece. Damn, I bought the 2 piece style. So, I just wanted to double check and went on rock auto. They show the original being a 1 piece but offer the Moog brand 2 piece and behind it, it says Improved Design.

So can I run the 2 piece style, or should I return it and get the original style?
 
straightlinespeed said:
Working on my 71 Scamp and I thought I had a 2 piece strut rod bushing. Well turns out mine were 1 piece. Damn, I bought the 2 piece style. So, I just wanted to double check and went on rock auto. They show the original being a 1 piece but offer the Moog brand 2 piece and behind it, it says Improved Design.

So can I run the 2 piece style, or should I return it and get the original style?
Click to expand...

I used poly two peice for the stability, but even if I used rubber it still would have been the 2 peice.
One peice ones suck.

Cupped side toward the K (on all four washers) :)
 
TrailBeast said:
I used poly two peice for the stability, but even if I used rubber it still would have been the 2 peice.
One peice ones suck.

Cupped side toward the K (on all four washers) :)
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These are rubber, which is good to know I can use these instead of the 1 piece style.

I've read thru all the which way the washers go posts and after reading all them, think that they way you stated is best as well. Funny though, TRW, has there washers stamped with which one goes in the front and rear and those stampings are on the opposite side of the cupped side. Not sure why Moog had to complicate things, but stamping theres funny
 
straightlinespeed said:
TRW, has there washers stamped with which one goes in the front and rear and those stampings are on the opposite side of the cupped side.
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I could see that depending on the materals used for the bushing IF they were made out of something that wouldn't split AND the idea was to let the suspention travel more freely.
The benefit of cups facing out is by far offset by what it does to the bushings IMO.
 
Yep, I agree with you Greg. I understand why also, but really how much travel do our cars need? I'll try to keep the life of the bushing over the travel of the suspension.. To much of a PITA to change!
 
straightlinespeed said:
Yep, I agree with you Greg. I understand why also, but really how much travel do our cars need? I'll try to keep the life of the bushing over the travel of the suspension.. To much of a PITA to change!
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Aint that the truth.
If it was an offroad Dart I would feel different about it. :)
Seems to me about 2 inches either way from center is about the average on the travel.

Don't know about your car but mine has a two peice hub, so I can separate them, pull the clip for the torsion bar, take the nut off the front of the stabilizer bar and slide the whole thing back enough to replace the lower control arm bushing and/or the stabilizer bushings.
(LCA bushings are poly also, so I don't have to mess with sleeve pressing)

Takes me about 30 min a side.
 
TrailBeast said:
Aint that the truth.
If it was an offroad Dart I would feel different about it. :)
Seems to me about 2 inches either way from center is about the average on the travel.

Don't know about your car but mine has a two peice hub, so I can separate them, pull the clip for the torsion bar, take the nut off the front of the stabilizer bar and slide the whole thing back enough to replace the lower control arm bushing and/or the stabilizer bushings.
(LCA bushings are poly also, so I don't have to mess with sleeve pressing)

Takes me about 30 min a side.
Click to expand...

Nice! So your saying you've done this a few times?

I will admit, this is the first time I have taken apart the suspension on a A body. Let alone a Mopar other than my Durango. I started on the drivers side and it took me probably 3 hours to get it all apart. I had the passengers side apart today in about a hour. I stuck with the rubber bushings for the entire car. I was in debate about the poly and decided not to go that route. I've installed Poly on a Jeep YJ I built a while back and liked them, but I decided not to this time around. I might kick myself eventually.
 
The 2 piece ones are fine. Run them.
 
I like the two piece design.

The washers face outward away from the bushings.

Tighten the nut until the bushings are as fat as the washers.
 
That nut does have a torque spec. I believe it is 105 LB FT if I remember right. I sure wouldn't distort the bushing a whole lot. JMO.

Your results may vary. RustyRatRod 2014 all rights reserved.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That nut does have a torque spec. I believe it is 105 LB FT if I remember right. I sure wouldn't distort the bushing a whole lot. JMO.

Your results may vary. RustyRatRod 2014 all rights reserved.
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Well the beauty of it is I actually have a service manual. So I can double check that torque spec.

My bushings came with a metal sleeve, do I still use that or toss it out?
 
 
Yes, the sleeve needs to be used. If not the fore and aft movement will destroy the bushings in no time.
 
straightlinespeed said:
Nice! So your saying you've done this a few times?

I will admit, this is the first time I have taken apart the suspension on a A body. Let alone a Mopar other than my Durango. I started on the drivers side and it took me probably 3 hours to get it all apart. I had the passengers side apart today in about a hour. I stuck with the rubber bushings for the entire car. I was in debate about the poly and decided not to go that route. I've installed Poly on a Jeep YJ I built a while back and liked them, but I decided not to this time around. I might kick myself eventually.
Click to expand...

I've done a few of them over the years.
 
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