Strut rod bushings

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69GT

69GT

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I've been shopping for strut rod bushings. Looking at the O'Reilly Auto Parts webpage (same with Autozone) they are showing two different styles of bushings. I was expecting the style in the first link but they also show the style in the second link as well. Does anyone know why there is a difference?


 
One is a factory style and one is an aftermarket approach to solving the install in your driveway approach.
 
69GT said:
I've been shopping for strut rod bushings. Looking at the O'Reilly Auto Parts webpage (same with Autozone) they are showing two different styles of bushings. I was expecting the style in the first link but they also show the style in the second link as well. Does anyone know why there is a difference?

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The 2 piece ones are WAY easier to install.

I tried a set of the one piece, and what a pain to get through the holes.
 
The two piece are used in 73 and later but will fit the earlier models. The one-piece design was for 72 and earlier. If my memory still works.
 
I recently did the strut rod bushings in a '71 Valiant VG (an Aussie car), and the one-piece design was such a PITA that I purchased a set of the two piece bushings (Moog parts). MUCH easier to install, and same end result.

Unless your car is a Concourse restoration (or your a masochist), there's really reason to use the one piece units, in my opinion.
 
The early bushings will go in fairly easily if you warm them up and lube the hole. Some people like the early ones to me it does not matter whatever the customer wants.
 
The one piece bushings shown are for 67-72 strut rods. The 2 piece are 73-76 strut rods. They can not be interchanged due to the strut rod length at the front threads being different. The two piece shown are for coarse thread and the one piece is for fine thread. The coarse thread takes the metal sleeve in the kit the fine thread does not there is no room for it as the picture shows . also if you use the 2 piece shown on the fine thread with the sleeve the pin hole will not line up and it will push the lower arm rearward

strutrod1[1].jpg


strutrod2[1].jpg


strutrod3[1].jpg
 
however
moog used to do two versions of "Improved design" (2 rubbers 2 washers + hardware)
to allow use of multi part kit on early and late cars

Part No: K7040 looks like its a split pin no steel sleeve design for 67-72
wind on your castle nut until you can fit the pin

and they used to make a set with much the same parts as k7040 with a steel sleeve included
and a ny-lock nut instead of the split pin/nut
in that case you used the steel sleeve and nylock nut, wound on tight against sleeve regardless of if you had a hole for a split pin or not.
this in turn catered for 2 types of later strut rod one with split pin hole and one without. Not to be confused with the short thread early rods.

they catered for the two different styles of strut rod, with different thread lengths, with a "later" style, multi-part kit for both types and ages of car

so you didn't have to use the 1 piece kit

I can't find both versions anymore

Dave
 
K7040 is still available just got one from Summit Racing but it was cheaper from Rock Auto.
The later one with the sleeve I think Moog discontinued and you have to buy (aftermarket) Prothane, Energy Suspension etc
 
Does the one piece type of bushing use the same kind of washers or some other type?
 
Have you checked Energy Suspension @ Summit Racing? Multi-piece, firmer and may be less expensive.
 
Dave999 said:
Part No: K7040 looks like its a split pin no steel sleeve design for 67-72
wind on your castle nut until you can fit the pin

and they used to make a set with much the same parts as k7040 with a steel sleeve included
and a ny-lock nut instead of the split pin/nut
Click to expand...
Interesting!

Bazza's VG didn't have a cotter pin on either end of the strut rod, and both ends just used a lock/crush nut. I thought this was a little odd at the time, as I'm used to '69-'71 Mustang suspensions/strut rods using castellated nuts and cotter pins, but I chalked this up to "the Australian Engineers are smarter than you, Jim", and I left well enough alone.
 
ProjectBazza said:
Bazza's VG didn't have a cotter pin on either end of the strut rod
Click to expand...
My 67 does not have cotter pins either. And I have no evidence that they have ever been replaced.

Just a 1 piece bushing and washers and lock nut. Infact the hole that looks like a cotter pin should go in is an inch or 2 from the nut.
 
Are we to assume your car is the one in your avatar and screen name? That's a heap of assumin.
CRYSTAL BALL (1).jpg
 
Does anyone have a photo of the type in the second picture installed on your car that you could post? Does the tapered end get pushed through the front of the k-frame? Do they use the same type of washers as the other style and does the washer cup face toward the bushing or away from it? Is the control arm end of the rod supposed to have any bushings?
 
69GT said:
Does anyone have a photo of the type in the second picture installed on your car that you could post
Click to expand...
Not much to see, but I'll get a photo.

The single bushing pushes in toward the rear of the car.

Look at the FSM

These are from my daughter's yellow 67 dart in progress
PXL_20231114_195719542.jpg


PXL_20231114_195750515.jpg


This is from my blue 67 dart
PXL_20231114_200051713.NIGHT.jpg
 
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Correct, early and later strut rods don't interchange and neither do the bushings.
Don't the early one piece install taper forward? And yes, a roll pin not cotter pin. I wonder if using
the wrong bushing is messing up the caster on some early front ends leaving guys to believe they
need the offset bushings to get enough caster?
 
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I am using a DC big block spool mount k-frame and putting 73 upper/lower control arms/disk brakes on the car (69 Dart). The strut rods I was going to use were the original ones from the car (biscuit k-frame and drum brakes) as I didn't know the design changed on the 73-up. Can I use the originals or will I need to use 73+ strut rods?
 
roll pin also known as a spring pin, cylinder with a split in it

cotter pin
well you might have them, they'd work in this application but would be a bit thin of the wire for the size of the shaft they'd need to clip around. but they look like a hair pin, kirby grip / bobby pin of a size suitable for Medusa. kinda thing you stick through the steel pegs that hold the legs of your engine crane up when its folded

split pin, is split yeah.... stick it through, splay the ends

if you think you have wrong bushes you can measure to see if installation pushes the spindle back.


Dave
 
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