Stupid pad question

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70DartMike

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Changing the pads on the single piston caliper discs I have on the car. Stupid question time.. is there an easy way to do this? The piston appears to be out a bit so to put the new pads in I don't have quite enough room to slide everything over the rotor. Do I need to loosen off the bleeder valve so the piston slides in further in order to get everything working? This is frustrating..
 
i use a c-clamp couple turns an its squeezed back in just make sure its centered on the piston
 
Me too. Leave the old inner pad on there and use a c clamp on it and behind the piston housing and slowly press it back in to give you enough room.
 
Easy way....before you start, use screwdriver to pry against pad to shove piston back into bore while loosening bleeder valve to let pressure escape.
Just remember to have hose on bleeder.
This way you are not having to force brake fluid back thru the system and you are not stirring up crud or over-flowing the master cylinder.
When new pads are in, pump brakes to expand piston, check for any problems, fill master cylinder, put wheels back on and go break-in your new pads.
 
I used yellowdartdave's method and it worked great. The only thing now is should I be bleeding the brakes again since I did open the bleeder valve to press the piston in?
 
I used yellowdartdave's method and it worked great. The only thing now is should I be bleeding the brakes again since I did open the bleeder valve to press the piston in?



That is how I do it too. Works well. Never have opened any valves though. As long as air did not get in you should be good.
 
I use a big pair of channel locks instead of the c-clamps works the same for me.
 
All went well, I did have to bleed the fronts again but not from that method, just from my own fault. But still didn't have any pressure. Checked the rear wheel cylinders and the rear passenger side was leaking so replaced it and now they work fine.
 
You don't have to open the bleeder for the piston to go back in unless someone topped off the master after the pads were worn down.

But....brake fluid is cheap....flush out the old.
 
The ASE method is to open the bleeder, this way the old fluid won't be pushed back into the system. It's not as important on older cars, but for those of you who own newer ones with ABS systems it is. It's very important that older contaminated fluid not be pushed back into the HCU for the ABS unit.
I'll let you in on a secret, though, as someone who did all this professionally (ie, made a lot money at the dealerships making sure the customer drove out safely) the master cylinder is proportioned to hold the exact amount of fluid for the entire system. There are only two reasons for the master to ever by low: the pads or shoes are worn out forcing the pistons out to capacity or you have a leak. If you check your master cylinder and it's low don't ever top it off! You have a brake issue that needs to be looked at and fixed. Think of it as having a toothache and rubbing Orgel on it instead of going to the dentist. Yeah, the pain has gone away, but you didn't cure the reason your tooth hurts in the first place.
DOT 3 brake fluid is also prone to moisture. Ever had serious brake frade? I mean like going down a big hill, riding the brake and have the peddle go away completely on you? Some of that is the friction material and the metal getting hot enough to heat sink, but most of that is actually caused by the fluid getting hot enough to boil whatever moisture has condensed into the DOT 3. Two cures for the this: DOT 5, which is almost pure silicone, pricey, and will last forever, or flush your brake system completely every couple of years. Most manufacturers recommend flushing the system every 2 years or 24,000 miles.
 
The reason I open the bleeder when pushing the piston back in is so that it is much easier to move fluid thru a big bleeder hole than it is to force back thru the tiny little lines and thru the ports in the M/C.
Cut a brake line and step on the brakes and see how long it takes to empty a master clyinder.
 
Easy way....before you start, use screwdriver to pry against pad to shove piston back into bore while loosening bleeder valve to let pressure escape.
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Personally, this is my prefered method. Number one, it tells you if you have other issues right off the bat without tearing the corner apart. If the piston doesn't move with the bleeder open you know you'll need a caliper, if the pads stay put, then you know the pads are sticking on the anchor and you'll need to clean the anchor. It also keeps from "puking" the master cylinder, if someone topped it off, meaning when the job is done, you won't have an over full master causing brake drag...
 
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