I want to weld in subframe connectors on my dart, before I do just had a few questions, no motor or trans is in the car and it's up on wheel dollies, would it be better to weld them in on the dollies or jack stands? and also should I wait to have the motor in to have the car sitting at the proper ride height before I make any of these mods?
subframe connectors
- Thread starter trbodrt
- Start date
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Lonewolf3165
Living the Dream!
Difference is minimal. You could make an argument that it's better to have it on the dollies because the weight is sprung normally, but I've seen it done both ways by professionals with no consequences. If you want to keep the weight sprung & have more working room, put the jack stands under the rear axle & strategically placed under the front frame near as you can to the LCAs. That should get the weight distributed closely enough.
Wheel ramps are a good choice for the front and jackstands under axle in rear. Jackstands in front should be fine if they are up front kinda far, like say between the two ears of the k-member. Engine weight shouldn't make much of a difference if you don't have a jackstand acting as a fulcrum in the middle of the car. Before you weld make sure the door can open and close properly. You don't want to tweak the car's chassis and then weld it into that position.
I am personally in progress on my subframe connectors. I have the passenger side welded together with no passenger floor in the car, the driver side is still stock. Last weekend I jacked up just the right rear to work in the wheelwell. The drivers door wouldn't open and passengers door opened perfectly fine. That tells me that a good strong set of connectors really help prevent body twist in our cars.
I am personally in progress on my subframe connectors. I have the passenger side welded together with no passenger floor in the car, the driver side is still stock. Last weekend I jacked up just the right rear to work in the wheelwell. The drivers door wouldn't open and passengers door opened perfectly fine. That tells me that a good strong set of connectors really help prevent body twist in our cars.
I have put them in in all different set ups.
If the doors are on the car, use them as your guide. I even jack the connectors up against the floor pan to arch the car on occasion. The build tolerances on these rides was horrible.
If the doors are on the car, use them as your guide. I even jack the connectors up against the floor pan to arch the car on occasion. The build tolerances on these rides was horrible.
I just welded mine in with no engine/ tranny. The front wheels were on ramps and jack stands under the rear axle. Got the car as level as I could by placing a level on the rockers. Doors open / close normally.
68GTconvert
Well-Known Member
Would jackstands on the front frame and jack stands under the rear axle be OK? I have no engine or trans in the car either.
The respected magazine guys have always reported that welding the frame connectors is best when the car is sitting on the tires by way of car ramps and/or jackstands under the rear axle.
There are other opinions out there, but I'd tend to side with the magazine guys. I put my Charger on car ramps up front and jacks under the axle housing. It was a pisser to weld and paint with so little room though. I wish that I had another foot of room under there. Have you ever tried to MIG weld on your side with one shoulder against the car and the other against cold concrete? How about when slag spatters and falls into your ear? Try to wiggle free at that point. NOT good.
My car handled great before and after the install. I'd hoped that they would have reduced flex and cut back on my oversteer condition. The main benefit that they had for me was to make the car rattle LESS and feel more solid. In a straight line on very bumpy roads, it now just soaks up ever bump instead of sending shock waves through the whole car. If you have any interest in cornering, the frame connectors also allow you to use a slightly smaller torsion bar to achieve the same ride. This is because the cars stiffer structure allows the t bar to reach its potential.
There are other opinions out there, but I'd tend to side with the magazine guys. I put my Charger on car ramps up front and jacks under the axle housing. It was a pisser to weld and paint with so little room though. I wish that I had another foot of room under there. Have you ever tried to MIG weld on your side with one shoulder against the car and the other against cold concrete? How about when slag spatters and falls into your ear? Try to wiggle free at that point. NOT good.
My car handled great before and after the install. I'd hoped that they would have reduced flex and cut back on my oversteer condition. The main benefit that they had for me was to make the car rattle LESS and feel more solid. In a straight line on very bumpy roads, it now just soaks up ever bump instead of sending shock waves through the whole car. If you have any interest in cornering, the frame connectors also allow you to use a slightly smaller torsion bar to achieve the same ride. This is because the cars stiffer structure allows the t bar to reach its potential.
green1
Well-Known Member
From my experinece= set on jackstands, doors in. If the gap is good; weld. gap bad, adjust stands until it is good. 2 stands at k member, 2 at front spring eye.
68dodge
Well-Known Member
I agree here with green1. Just make sure car is level and doors open and close smoothly with the gaps the same. I have done four cars like this with no problems.
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