Supercharged 410/408 stroker?

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PanGasket

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I know this was being discussed in the "Supercharging a 360" thread. but that was just a 360. Is it possible to take a 408/410 stroker with forged pistons, billet h rods, ARP head studs, a stud girdle (unsure if thats necessary), and a forged crank and make it into a supercharged beast?

What would be the best way to do this?


(dont be starting no fights in here, we are all good people who can all get along 8))
 
I have a 416 stroker, eagle crank, H beam rods, girdle, ARP studs, (main and head) Just learn what you need to before you start buying parts.


P1000776.jpg
 
I only had it going for about a year and I've been just too busy to fine tune it to see how it will do. I tuned it to drive it and that's as far as I got, I'm lucky if I have the time to make it to the locals cruise nights.
 
I only had it going for about a year and I've been just too busy to fine tune it to see how it will do. I tuned it to drive it and that's as far as I got, I'm lucky if I have the time to make it to the locals cruise nights.
Its still really cool! Are you happy with it so far?
 
Not sure about a supercharger, but here are specs from my 360 turbo motor stroked to 408 cubes. These are from a computer dyno simulation based on 15 lbs. of boost. How does a very streetable motor with potential of over 600 hp and over 700 lb./ft. of torque sound? You can see more on my build thread, http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=49808.

You should also check out the Forced Induction Mopar forum here on FABO.
 
Not sure about a supercharger, but here are specs from my 360 turbo motor stroked to 408 cubes. These are from a computer dyno simulation based on 15 lbs. of boost. How does a very streetable motor with potential of over 600 hp and over 700 lb./ft. of torque sound? You can see more on my build thread, http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=49808.

You should also check out the Forced Induction Mopar forum here on FABO.
With all do respect, your build is awesome!!! Ive been waiting for an update on it actually. LOL. I was actually gonna find a mod and tell them to move this to forced induction. I dun screwed up!:toothy10:Btw, your work is awesome gofish
 
Take a look at the dakota boards. There are alot of guys running centrifugal supercharged 408s. Some of them are running mid 10s with 4200# trucks=P~

Here is one.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCsdf5e02RM"]YouTube- 2003 Dodge Dakota 10.86 Second Quarter Mile[/ame]

Another thing to note is that it takes more flow to feed a 408 than a 360 .... if you don't have the right supercharger the difference in displacement may not correlate with HP
 
N/A 408s already push the limits of stock 340/360 blocks, if you really want a serious blown 408 I'd recommend starting with an R-block from Mopar Performance. This is just me but if I was making a blown 408 it would be an R3-W9 (I think, whichever 'W-' heads are aluminum) engine with the 'corrected' 48* lifter angle. Unless of course you already have all the stuff you mentioned in the original post...
 
N/A 408s already push the limits of stock 340/360 blocks, if you really want a serious blown 408 I'd recommend starting with an R-block from Mopar Performance. This is just me but if I was making a blown 408 it would be an R3-W9 (I think, whichever 'W-' heads are aluminum) engine with the 'corrected' 48* lifter angle. Unless of course you already have all the stuff you mentioned in the original post...
I do not, just stuff i thought it'd prolly take to reach the goal.

Though I am considering juts a 40 over 360 and supercharging it. It would prolly be alot more achievable in the end
 
The earlier 360 (71-73) 360 blocks would be best for a blown engine. That said, any of them will work. They are thicker than most give them credit for. As I told you in yahoo, I took an 80s 360 and punched it .070" over for a 416 build. That engine is still in VIc Pullen's Ramcharger right up the road from Bruce in Byron. Maybe you should go see it. It's badass. I built that engine with all the 340 stuff. Heads, cam intake good manifolds and a 1000 CFM Thermoquad that David at Demon Sizzler built up for me. It has gobs of bottom end grunt like you won't believe. I won't say I doubt Moparkid's statement.......I'll just say I'd like to see the evidence he has to back it up. And I don't mean that disrespectfully, I just wanna see the evidence. Not just some "Joe Blow's motor blew up, blah blah blah......" The block pretty much just sits there and houses everything. What's most important about an engine.....especially a high performance engine of ANY kind, including a blown one is how it is balanced. The balance of an engine is perhaps the number one most important thing as far as I'm concerned. I'm buildin a little 305 for a guy now.....but I'm not balancing it. The money's not in his budget. Is it important? Well, yeah, a little. Will it be detrimental not doing it? No. This particular build is not much off stock and going back together with everything it came apart with except new pistons and bearings. The pistons are high quality Speed Pros and are weight matched. However, what we are doing with this engine is about the limit I would recommend building one without balancing. I mean.....it was already balanced from the factory. All we did was put different pistons in the equation and they are a matched set. Reeves RPM Performance in Warner Robins does a balance for 250 plus any mallory metal. That's pretty danged affordable. The better the balance job, the more capacity an engine has to make power. Now, before I get flamed for saying the block doesn't matter......I didn't say that. But the engine you're talking about building will probably not see 700 HP. A good, stock properly prepared block will be just fine at that level as long as the guts are balanced VERY well by a PRO like Steve Reeves. He KNOWS what he's doing. I would go so far as to say he's the best in Georgia, including Atlanta. He might be the best east of the Mississippi. If you don't believe a stock block will hold up, then I invite you to come down to the Reynolds Silver Dollar Raceway and see for yourself how many stock blocked cars are dragging their rear bumpers past the 60 ft line on a Friday night. Talk to their owners. MANY of them have been running like that for several seasons. I gotta friend from high school who had a STOCK bottom end 302 ford in a fox body rustang. had soma kinda alloy heads on it and a good intake and big carb. He ran a Vortec suprecharger and that car ran 10s for like five or six seasons, PLUS served street duty. He finally pulled it to "upgrade" to a stroke 347 and guess what? The car slowed down! LMAO. True story. In fact, I THINK that motor is still runnin with just a carb on it now. I'll have to ask my friend Kirk when I talk to him again. At any rate, just remember, preparation, GOOD parts choices, EXCELLENT machine work, GOOD balancing and a real honest BLUEPRINTED assembly are what's important. IF you want me to be involved with this build, we'll be consulting experts all along the way to make SURE we do everything dead right.
 
The earlier 360 (71-73) 360 blocks would be best for a blown engine. That said, any of them will work. They are thicker than most give them credit for. As I told you in yahoo, I took an 80s 360 and punched it .070" over for a 416 build. That engine is still in VIc Pullen's Ramcharger right up the road from Bruce in Byron. Maybe you should go see it. It's badass. I built that engine with all the 340 stuff. Heads, cam intake good manifolds and a 1000 CFM Thermoquad that David at Demon Sizzler built up for me. It has gobs of bottom end grunt like you won't believe. I won't say I doubt Moparkid's statement.......I'll just say I'd like to see the evidence he has to back it up. And I don't mean that disrespectfully, I just wanna see the evidence. Not just some "Joe Blow's motor blew up, blah blah blah......" The block pretty much just sits there and houses everything. What's most important about an engine.....especially a high performance engine of ANY kind, including a blown one is how it is balanced. The balance of an engine is perhaps the number one most important thing as far as I'm concerned. I'm buildin a little 305 for a guy now.....but I'm not balancing it. The money's not in his budget. Is it important? Well, yeah, a little. Will it be detrimental not doing it? No. This particular build is not much off stock and going back together with everything it came apart with except new pistons and bearings. The pistons are high quality Speed Pros and are weight matched. However, what we are doing with this engine is about the limit I would recommend building one without balancing. I mean.....it was already balanced from the factory. All we did was put different pistons in the equation and they are a matched set. Reeves RPM Performance in Warner Robins does a balance for 250 plus any mallory metal. That's pretty danged affordable. The better the balance job, the more capacity an engine has to make power. Now, before I get flamed for saying the block doesn't matter......I didn't say that. But the engine you're talking about building will probably not see 700 HP. A good, stock properly prepared block will be just fine at that level as long as the guts are balanced VERY well by a PRO like Steve Reeves. He KNOWS what he's doing. I would go so far as to say he's the best in Georgia, including Atlanta. He might be the best east of the Mississippi. If you don't believe a stock block will hold up, then I invite you to come down to the Reynolds Silver Dollar Raceway and see for yourself how many stock blocked cars are dragging their rear bumpers past the 60 ft line on a Friday night. Talk to their owners. MANY of them have been running like that for several seasons. I gotta friend from high school who had a STOCK bottom end 302 ford in a fox body rustang. had soma kinda alloy heads on it and a good intake and big carb. He ran a Vortec suprecharger and that car ran 10s for like five or six seasons, PLUS served street duty. He finally pulled it to "upgrade" to a stroke 347 and guess what? The car slowed down! LMAO. True story. In fact, I THINK that motor is still runnin with just a carb on it now. I'll have to ask my friend Kirk when I talk to him again. At any rate, just remember, preparation, GOOD parts choices, EXCELLENT machine work, GOOD balancing and a real honest BLUEPRINTED assembly are what's important. IF you want me to be involved with this build, we'll be consulting experts all along the way to make SURE we do everything dead right.

Im pretty sure you will be involved quite deeply in this build as you being an expert in this area.
 
No way dood......don't curse me with the "E" word. I ain't nowhere near all that. I've just done a lot through repetition.....a chimp can do that. LOL
 
The earlier 360 (71-73) 360 blocks would be best for a blown engine. That said, any of them will work. They are thicker than most give them credit for. As I told you in yahoo, I took an 80s 360 and punched it .070" over for a 416 build. That engine is still in VIc Pullen's Ramcharger right up the road from Bruce in Byron. Maybe you should go see it. It's badass. I built that engine with all the 340 stuff. Heads, cam intake good manifolds and a 1000 CFM Thermoquad that David at Demon Sizzler built up for me. It has gobs of bottom end grunt like you won't believe. I won't say I doubt Moparkid's statement.......I'll just say I'd like to see the evidence he has to back it up. And I don't mean that disrespectfully, I just wanna see the evidence. Not just some "Joe Blow's motor blew up, blah blah blah......" The block pretty much just sits there and houses everything. What's most important about an engine.....especially a high performance engine of ANY kind, including a blown one is how it is balanced. The balance of an engine is perhaps the number one most important thing as far as I'm concerned. I'm buildin a little 305 for a guy now.....but I'm not balancing it. The money's not in his budget. Is it important? Well, yeah, a little. Will it be detrimental not doing it? No. This particular build is not much off stock and going back together with everything it came apart with except new pistons and bearings. The pistons are high quality Speed Pros and are weight matched. However, what we are doing with this engine is about the limit I would recommend building one without balancing. I mean.....it was already balanced from the factory. All we did was put different pistons in the equation and they are a matched set. Reeves RPM Performance in Warner Robins does a balance for 250 plus any mallory metal. That's pretty danged affordable. The better the balance job, the more capacity an engine has to make power. Now, before I get flamed for saying the block doesn't matter......I didn't say that. But the engine you're talking about building will probably not see 700 HP. A good, stock properly prepared block will be just fine at that level as long as the guts are balanced VERY well by a PRO like Steve Reeves. He KNOWS what he's doing. I would go so far as to say he's the best in Georgia, including Atlanta. He might be the best east of the Mississippi. If you don't believe a stock block will hold up, then I invite you to come down to the Reynolds Silver Dollar Raceway and see for yourself how many stock blocked cars are dragging their rear bumpers past the 60 ft line on a Friday night. Talk to their owners. MANY of them have been running like that for several seasons. I gotta friend from high school who had a STOCK bottom end 302 ford in a fox body rustang. had soma kinda alloy heads on it and a good intake and big carb. He ran a Vortec suprecharger and that car ran 10s for like five or six seasons, PLUS served street duty. He finally pulled it to "upgrade" to a stroke 347 and guess what? The car slowed down! LMAO. True story. In fact, I THINK that motor is still runnin with just a carb on it now. I'll have to ask my friend Kirk when I talk to him again. At any rate, just remember, preparation, GOOD parts choices, EXCELLENT machine work, GOOD balancing and a real honest BLUEPRINTED assembly are what's important. IF you want me to be involved with this build, we'll be consulting experts all along the way to make SURE we do everything dead right.


I agree I ran a 360 .030 over for almost 10 years
at really high rpm 7000 to 7500 and to the
rev limiter at 8200:hippy2:

even with nitrous in the last 5 years I tried to blow that
engine several time so the wife couldnt argu on making a 408
never been able,so I sold it to a friend

but the engine hade been balance the best way.
I didnt try to ket it for cheap but to have it do
the best way

I did my 408 the same way only problem so far
is rear main oil seal leaking for the second times](*,)
 
The earlier 360 (71-73) 360 blocks would be best for a blown engine. That said, any of them will work. They are thicker than most give them credit for. As I told you in yahoo, I took an 80s 360 and punched it .070" over for a 416 build. That engine is still in VIc Pullen's Ramcharger right up the road from Bruce in Byron. Maybe you should go see it. It's badass. I built that engine with all the 340 stuff. Heads, cam intake good manifolds and a 1000 CFM Thermoquad that David at Demon Sizzler built up for me. It has gobs of bottom end grunt like you won't believe. I won't say I doubt Moparkid's statement.......I'll just say I'd like to see the evidence he has to back it up. And I don't mean that disrespectfully, I just wanna see the evidence. Not just some "Joe Blow's motor blew up, blah blah blah......" The block pretty much just sits there and houses everything. What's most important about an engine.....especially a high performance engine of ANY kind, including a blown one is how it is balanced. The balance of an engine is perhaps the number one most important thing as far as I'm concerned. I'm buildin a little 305 for a guy now.....but I'm not balancing it. The money's not in his budget. Is it important? Well, yeah, a little. Will it be detrimental not doing it? No. This particular build is not much off stock and going back together with everything it came apart with except new pistons and bearings. The pistons are high quality Speed Pros and are weight matched. However, what we are doing with this engine is about the limit I would recommend building one without balancing. I mean.....it was already balanced from the factory. All we did was put different pistons in the equation and they are a matched set. Reeves RPM Performance in Warner Robins does a balance for 250 plus any mallory metal. That's pretty danged affordable..

Well you're right... I don't really have any evidence to back that up. I just pretty much repeated things I've read and heard from others. Of course I don't like admitting this, but 'blowing hot air' doesn't help anyone. I say this because there are many others on this forum who do this as well and in the end it just clouds the air instead of clearing it. I apologize for saying anything untrue...

I just figured one would want extra peace-of-mind running high cylinder pressures from a supercharger. And the aftermarket R blocks are just better suited to ultra-high-performance forced induction duty than 30+-year-old factory pass.-car and truck 360 blocks that weren't really designed to house 4" cranks and boost. Plus I've got this strange desire for high-revving NASCAR engines, and I just like using as many of those components as possible to say I did LOL...
 
Well you're right... I don't really have any evidence to back that up. I just pretty much repeated things I've read and heard from others. Of course I don't like admitting this, but 'blowing hot air' doesn't help anyone. I say this because there are many others on this forum who do this as well and in the end it just clouds the air instead of clearing it. I apologize for saying anything untrue...

I just figured one would want extra peace-of-mind running high cylinder pressures from a supercharger. And the aftermarket R blocks are just better suited to ultra-high-performance forced induction duty than 30+-year-old factory pass.-car and truck 360 blocks that weren't really designed to house 4" cranks and boost. Plus I've got this strange desire for high-revving NASCAR engines, and I just like using as many of those components as possible to say I did LOL...
when compared with stroking a small chevy or small ford , putting a 4 inch crank in our 360 is a direct bolt in if you use the right rods. i say put a girdle on the bottom and crank the stock block to 15 pounds..... i bet if you bought the new mopar high nickle 4 bolt 340 block and a set of ported factory iron heads you could make it over 1000 horse reliably and not have to dish out huge cash on a r3 r5 and exotice cylinder heads ( even know we all wish we could) . oh yeah one of the great things about boost is you dont have to rev it to 9000 rpm to make horsepower like a nascar motor, you could make huge power and keep it all together well before 6500 rpm.............
 
I run a stock block and stock 340 steel crank in my turbo motor. 911 to the rear tires at 13 pounds of boost. Although a supercharged motor is harder on cranks and main caps since the blow belt pulls on the crank.


Blowfish your car is a work of art. Just wanted to throw that in.

StrokerScamp, not balancing a motor is a hand grenade waiting to go off. I dont care if you use the factory pistons. Balancing technology back then was aweful and Ma Mopar's balancing was marginal at best. Always balance a motor when you rebuild it, its only a few hundred more for piece of mind.

So to DarTT, yes you can run a stroker small block with a blower. Skies the limit just make sure you do a good job blueprinting it and use quality parts. At some point you will need an aftermarket block, but its when you try to make 4 digit HP then.
 
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