Superflow 901????

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Newbomb Turk

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The water tank on the dyno has two separate tanks.

There is a small port between the two tanks and it’s threaded.

I know what it’s not. It’s not 3/8 or 1/2 NPT.

I know it’s not 3/4 fine whatever the thread pitch is.

I want to keep the two tank divided.

So what size fitting goes in there???

TIA.
 
Could it be one of the British Standard pipe threads? Is it tapered or a straight thread? There is also a PG metric thread but that is usually used for cable bushings but I have seen it used with water on the Swiss machines my company used to make. Some sort of straight thread and we always had to use a Loctite hydraulic sealant on them.

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Most probably a BSP thread. Over 1/2’’, generally you can screw a male BSP thread into a NPT female thread, but not the other way around. BSP has a 55 degree flank angle, NPT 60 degrees.

BSP is usually slightly finer with some sizes. Common issue here in AUS!

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gzig5 said:
Could it be one of the British Standard pipe threads? Is it tapered or a straight thread? There is also a PG metric thread but that is usually used for cable bushings but I have seen it used with water on the Swiss machines my company used to make. Some sort of straight thread and we always had to use a Loctite hydraulic sealant on them.

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It could be but what would make Superflow use BST on one thread on the whole dyno?

I’m not saying they aren’t capable of that kind of ding dongery but I’d be surprised.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Not meanin to be a smartass.....but have you tried calling Superflow?

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I’d have a better chance of calling Elmers Glue company and getting dyno information from them.

Superflow is absolutely horrible when it comes to customer service, especially on the older dyno’s. All they want to discuss is converting it to a 902 and I have no desire to do that.
 
thread pitch gage, calipers, and a machinist handbook answers those questions for me. machinist handbooks are a must have item in the toolbox.
 
No. 8 JIC / AN is 3/4 x 16 SAE. That would also be the same for nol 8 "O ring boss"
 
Sorry I misread. What is the purpose of this thing? Is it some port for one of their, ?? proprietary orifices I cannot think of a reason otherwise, to make it oddball.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
I’d have a better chance of calling Elmers Glue company and getting dyno information from them.

Superflow is absolutely horrible when it comes to customer service, especially on the older dyno’s. All they want to discuss is converting it to a 902 and I have no desire to do that.
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Just thought it'd be worth a call.
 
67Dart273 said:
Sorry I misread. What is the purpose of this thing? Is it some port for one of their, ?? proprietary orifices I cannot think of a reason otherwise, to make it oddball.
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The water tank is divided into two parts. One part is where the cool water comes in from the 1200 gallon tank.

The other section of the tank is the water that comes out of the brake. It’s hot.

For some reason I can’t remember Superflow welds in a bung that is threaded and that port is right next to the inlet to the brake.

So you could possibly be pulling the hot water that just came out of the brake right back into the brake.

When I first installed the dyno I didn’t mount the return pump below water level in the tank, because I decided I wanted to eliminate two 90 degree turns in the plumbing.

Since the pump was slightly higher than the opening in the tank for return water, I had to use a float switch to keep the pump from pulling air.

For whatever reason, every now and then the pump would lose its prime and even though the float switch came on, the pump couldn’t pull the water out.

When that happens and you don’t catch it quick enough to turn the pump off at the console, watch for the burp and turn the pump back on it over fills the tank and the tank overfills and water just floods onto the floor.

If I’m just braking the cam, or warming the engine it’s pretty easy to keep an eye on it and catch it.

But, when you making a pull and you don’t catch it you either have to kill the pull (I hate doing that) or you just continue the pull and let it dump a bunch of water on the floor.

I just finished two engines a couple of weeks ago and three or four times I didn’t catch it and I just got sick of it.

So I lowered the pump to below the outlet of the tank, eliminated the float switch and clean up that so it doesn’t happen again.

When I drained the tank to fix the plumbing I saw that port and decided I’d plug it off while there wasn’t water in the tank.

And that’s how I got to the point where I couldn’t find a plug for it.

Luckily I had a rubber plug that was small enough to fit in the hole and seal it off. Its basically a core plug except that rather than using a nut to tighten and expand the plug to make it seal, this one has a lever.

I for the life of me can’t think of why it would be BST but it must be because it’s not NPT and it’s not 3/4 fine or coarse.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Just thought it'd be worth a call.
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Yeah, I thought about calling them, but the last time I called them about the correct foot valve they told me to look in the manual and use that part number because they don’t service that part any more.

The issue is the part number in the manual was discontinued and the new part number is totally wrong.

How they don’t know that I can’t say but the wrong foot valve was screwing me up on 600 hp plus engines when I slowed the sweep rate down.

The brake would suck the tank low enough that the inlet would suck air. When that happens the brake loses control, the engine runs up and hits the rev limiter and I crap my shorts.

Thankfully I have that fixed now but that was a wacky deal because it only happened under certain circumstances.

And SF was zero help with that.
 

Newbomb Turk said:
It could be but what would make Superflow use BST on one thread on the whole dyno?
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I've seen weirder situations. Sometimes they just use what they can get or maybe the tank was sourced externally and not specced rigidly enough.

If it's just a plug and you wan to get on with your life, tap it to the closest NPT thread and move on. Grease the tap up so the chips stick to it and use a vacuum. If it is slightly cross threaded or different pitch, a good paste thread sealant will close it up and nobody will ever know.
 
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