Swap in rear discs 70 Dart

[Brooks James]

Factory 4 piston Kelsey Hayes disc.
1) Currently non power, manual
Recommendations for a master cylinder, hopefully one that is modern and would bolt in with minor issues.
2) proportioning-
Use factory or install after market adjustable proportioning valve( s)
3) is there adjustable push rod
Available ??

 

[72bluNblu]

DoctorDiff sells everything you need. 15/16” master cylinder, adjustable push rod. You can use the factory combination valve, or replace it completely with an adjustable one, or just plumb an adjustable valve into the rear line. Having an adjustable one will be better balanced if you tune it well, but plenty of people use the factory valve too. Depends on how your car is set up and how you drive it.

 

[Ricks70Duster340]

DoctorDiff sells everything you need. 15/16” master cylinder, adjustable push rod. You can use the factory combination valve, or replace it completely with an adjustable one, or just plumb an adjustable valve into the rear line. Having an adjustable one will be better balanced if you tune it well, but plenty of people use the factory valve too. Depends on how your car is set up and how you drive it.

I just went through this myself. Converted to BBP by purchasing Cass' axles. Was going to go rear disc but would have to buy his new brake lines & form/flare. Don't have the tools for that so went with the drum brakes (10x2.5) backing plate, shoes, and all hardware (bought on ebay). Existing master cylinder and brake lines did not need to be changed. Unlike the tapered bearings, I was a bit surprised that I had to drive the new axles in (could not push them in). Cass said to coat the outside of the bearing with some grease or diff fluid, then tap them in using a wood block and 2lb sledge. They popped right in. Since they are so tight fitting and have an o-ring on the bearings, should not have any more axle leaks.

 

[72bluNblu]

I just went through this myself. Converted to BBP by purchasing Cass' axles. Was going to go rear disc but would have to buy his new brake lines & form/flare. Don't have the tools for that so went with the drum brakes (10x2.5) backing plate, shoes, and all hardware (bought on ebay). Existing master cylinder and brake lines did not need to be changed. Unlike the tapered bearings, I was a bit surprised that I had to drive the new axles in (could not push them in). Cass said to coat the outside of the bearing with some grease or diff fluid, then tap them in using a wood block and 2lb sledge. They popped right in. Since they are so tight fitting and have an o-ring on the bearings, should not have any more axle leaks.

When I converted to rear disks all I did was a little forming on the existing brake lines to fit them to the disks, worked fine. Granted they were lines that I made when I installed the B-body 8 3/4, but they used the same routing and length as factory. If they’d been original lines they probably couldn’t have handled the re-forming without kinking, but the new lines had no issues at all and the re-forming was pretty minor in my case.

I still prefer the tapered bearings. I’m not gonna argue the second generation green bearings don’t work, they work just fine. But I’d rather have the tapered bearings and heavy duty adjuster that DoctorDiff makes.

My DoctorDiff rear disk conversion install can be seen here

My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head

 

[Ricks70Duster340]

When I converted to rear disks all I did was a little forming on the existing brake lines to fit them to the disks, worked fine. Granted they were lines that I made when I installed the B-body 8 3/4, but they used the same routing and length as factory. If they’d been original lines they probably couldn’t have handled the re-forming without kinking, but the new lines had no issues at all and the re-forming was pretty minor in my case.

I still prefer the tapered bearings. I’m not gonna argue the second generation green bearings don’t work, they work just fine. But I’d rather have the tapered bearings and heavy duty adjuster that DoctorDiff makes.

My DoctorDiff rear disk conversion install can be seen here

My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head

Glad that worked out for you. I've now had two Dusters that had rear axle shaft leaks. First car I never could stop the leaks, so this time I opted for the greenies. If Cass sells them, then I'm sure they will work fine.

 

[plumkrazee70]

I have a 70 Dart with 73+ discs up front and Dr. Diff rear discs. Here's what you need:

Caliper kit and rotors (You need to call him m for SBP brackets)

15/16 Master cylinder

4 bolt to 2 bolt adapter for master

Stock DISTRIBUTION valve (replaces the proportion valve.)

Manual brake rod works fine. Your rear line will have to be cut and flared. I took my line down to a local brake shop and they flared for like $6.

All of that and your set.