synthotic oil

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Snake

Snake

Mopar Nut
Joined
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Sure this has been beat to death before but here we go.My rebuilt 360 now has 2500 miles on it now using dino oil and for sure comp cams break in oil every oil change.Tha Dart comes out in laite April and put away 3 week of November thanks to global warming thanksssssssss,I do live in Canada so that likly makes some diff as to what to use.I have to admit I have never used syn in any builds in the past,but with a ton of money in this one now maybe I should.I run Castrol gtx 10w 30.Looking for valuable input to what brand to use.Thankssss.:burnout:
 
Snake said:
Sure this has been beat to death before but here we go.My rebuilt 360 now has 2500 miles on it now using dino oil and for sure comp cams break in oil every oil change.Tha Dart comes out in laite April and put away 3 week of November thanks to global warming thanksssssssss,I do live in Canada so that likly makes some diff as to what to use.I have to admit I have never used syn in any builds in the past,but with a ton of money in this one now maybe I should.I run Castrol gtx 10w 30.Looking for valuable input to what brand to use.Thankssss.:burnout:
Click to expand...

Whats your oil pressure when it hot or up to temp?

I when from Castrol 20/50 to a syn 5/20 It starts and idles much better cold and i don't peg my pressure gauge any more at start up. .....atleast at idle:D
 
they say sythentic oil builds up on the cylinder walls and fouls plugs. I don't know for a fact
 
No question Mobil 1, been running it for 30 yrs. in everything from Muscle to Economy, with the additive of course for the Muscle.
 
I use full syn Mobil 1 and have never had a problem. Using full syn=less wear and tear. Also remember that full syn proforms better in colder/hotter temps then regular oil. Don't forget you're additive if you have a flat tappet cam.
 
Amsoil 10w40 Z rod oil. Synthetic and it has Zinc in it.
 
Cudafever said:
Whats your oil pressure when it hot or up to temp?

I when from Castrol 20/50 to a syn 5/20 It starts and idles much better cold and i don't peg my pressure gauge any more at start up. .....atleast at idle:D
Click to expand...

when hot @ idle I have 25psi, cold start up 60 we have great oil pressure.
 
I had my 360 built about 7 years ago and I was told then that our older engines should never see synthetic oil, they were not built for it. I also was told that synthetic will harden the oil seals. Mine is a 79 motor. Cheaper 10 W 30 plus cam lube is the way to go.
 
I put Mobil 1 in my generator (5 HP Briggs&Stratton) that I used at the drag strip and the damn thing ran 45 minutes longer on a tank of gas, I was sold on it at that point. There are other brands of synthetic out there that are good also.
 
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SeMs9RYVZsI"]Edelbrock Performance Lubricants - YouTube[/ame] I've been buying Edebrock's (Made by Torco) synthetic oil with the zinc in it. Mostly because I keep finding it at Oreilly on the sale rack.
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I use Brad Penn partial synthetic in my flat tappet cars and Shell Rotella on my roller cars. The new cars use Mobile 1.
 
Last week I switched to 5w30 synth. Blend, coming from 10w40 dino oil in the bonestock 318 in my 73 Dart.No difference in oilpressure at all (65cold/35hot idle in Drive) but engine temp is 15F(!) lower then before!
I will replenish with 5w20 from now on.
 
I wouldn't run Royal Purple. Ive read up and a lot of people had complaints about it, but the EDDY stuff and Amsoil look good.
 
I used to swear by Mobil 1. Then I put it in My '01 Jetta. I had to keep adding oil about a quart every few hundred miles. I called Mobil Tech Support and the guy on the phone was a total douche. I just wanted advice as to maybe wait a few oil changes and see if the consumption slowed down. He just kept on arguing that there must be something wrong with my engine. He hammered me about what oil did I use before trying to say that changing brands or weights ruined my engine. He was a Total Butt hole. I pulled it out and put in Castrol Syntec because I really wanted to run full synthetic. It didn't hold on to the Syntec either. I switched back to conventional oil and it doesn't use a drop.
My Jetta had about 100,000 miles when I made the attempt to switch and I was always told not to try Synthetic on an older engine. Now I believe.
In your case I believe Synthetic should be a great choice But I have blacklisted Mobil due to horrible way the Representative handled the situation. I knew my Engine was fine because it never used a drop of oil before and I changed it every 3,000 miles with Quality oil. All my other engines get Synthetic Amsoil including my Motorcycle and Lawn Mowers. None of them use oil at all.
 
Too each there own .... this has been a saying for many years lol..

Oils and there brand makers are constantly improving as time goes on.

Its hard to change peoples minds when they are sold on a product.

I use Royal Purple with zinc as I can get it @ cost from a buddy

My bro uses Castrol

My friend who is a mechanic and races uses Brad Penn

The list goes on...

Everyone can be a Syntheic Oil Specialist and Certified Lubrication Specialist LOL

Now to add more punch to this topic...

What oil filter do you use [trust].....?
 
1068 nappa gold or a wix which is what the nappa is... i was doing a oil change on my fishing boat sat and i had a wix filter and it would not go on the engine on further inspection of the filter the threads were not cut i never came across that before.
 
I run Mopar filters, and what ever name brand 10W30 is on sale the week I buy it. I just stay away from the bottom self store brand recycled stuff. Ive ran Castrol. royal purple, Quaker state, Valvoline, Ive even ran a Ford motorcraft synthetic before. I just changed the oil this week with some Quaker Sate synthetic.
 
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