The days of welding body panels are coming to an end...

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There is a certain window of time that you can reposition your panel; after that it can not be moved. Have your panel ready test fitted and use a few screws to line it up.....and lots of clamps.

Stuff works great! I use in spots that I can not get the welder into.

bbrroowwnn said:
I heard you get one shot at placement with this stuff and can't be moved once it sticks together.....Kind of like contact cement......One body shop guy f^&%&^ up on placing a quarter panel properly....Couldn't get it off....Had to cut entire quarter off and reweld a new one on....
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My dads a body man and he's used this stuff before. He said it was great, but after a car was finished, if you caught it in the right light you'd be able to see the seam where it was glued right through the body filler & paint.
 
I've heard of this stuff before and always wondered about how you would clamp it? More often than not you can't get clamps on the panel so you would have to drill holes and use screws. Now you have holes that should be welded up, does the adhesive hold up while you have extreme heat from welding on it? I hate the old slide hammers that used holes, you strip your panel and find 90 holes that were just schmoozed over with filler :banghead:

Also lap welds are far more likely to get moisture in them on the backside and this is lap glued.
 
me and my dad have a few tubes of this stuff from fords body shop guys, we will be using it to do the lower quarters of my moms duster and if it goes good lower quarters on my dart one day
 
Well, lots of info but some is far out there!

Working time depends on a specific brand and part number. It can be as little as 2 minutes to 2 hours. I used a SEM product that had a cure time of 6 to 8 hours. Plenty of time to work with. Yes, there has to be a bare metal contact surface for proper adhesion. Doesn't matter since the glue seals better than any corrosion resistant spray.

I never had a recheck using adhesives. We also had a 3 phase industrial spot welder that I would hit the front and rear glass channel pinchwelds with. Clamping consisted of using regular old Vise-grips with various depths of jaws.
 
67valiant 100 said:
My dads a body man and he's used this stuff before. He said it was great, but after a car was finished, if you caught it in the right light you'd be able to see the seam where it was glued right through the body filler & paint.
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True story, this stuff works best at a factory seam, or where it cant be seen directly(splices). Duramix, and fusor are the two ive used...my 2 cents
 
like most epoxy's working time depends on temp , we set a couple of thousand anchors using various brands of 2 part adhesive , we found we could gain up to a half hour of extra time by keeping the products in a small bar fridge , drop the temp into the 40's before opening the tube and you gain plenty of time otherwise some of the stuff we were using would cook off in the mixing tube before we could move from one hole to another in 80 degree weather

PS my body guy used some of this on my car and I always wonder about the life span ,will it go brittle in 10 years ? I've seen plenty of 90's vehicles driving around missing whole panels and always wondered about how you would lose a complete panel , I guess time will tell
 
Bonding strength isn't a problem at all. Guys I talk to say it gives you enough working time to get it right. You just can't get interrupted in the middle of it like if you were welding & could come back to it & finish. Not real good for a lap joint or a patch panel because it does have a designed in minimum thickness it will compress to, so if you lap jointed it it may not lay flush like metal on metal & then welding. Collision guys love it because it reduces time. It ain't cheap though!
 
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