rayer:rayer:rayer: Well done sir! :thumbup:
oiling the drums and rotors? Thats a good one. That's right up there with these....
Drive it.
Hey, wiseass, I was talking a light oil with something along the lines of cosmoline or a light rust inhibitor. You know, the **** that comes on 'em new, so they don't rust in the box, waiting to be installed. The **** you need brake cleaner to get off and just a wipe of a rag.
Sure the hell beats getting rust pitted and or have the pads or shoes make nice grinding noise that you think is metal to metal the first time out in the spring.
Had a lot of customers who were snowbirds come into the shop in the spring time to have the brakes checked out. Makes a godawful noise as the pads are cleaning the rust off the rotors after a winter time of sitting. I asked this after decades of experience of working on other people's **** that just sits for months at a time.
Now, you done making fun or are you gonna answer the question seriously?
Hey, wiseass, I was talking a light oil with something along the lines of cosmoline or a light rust inhibitor. You know, the **** that comes on 'em new, so they don't rust in the box, waiting to be installed. The **** you need brake cleaner to get off and just a wipe of a rag.
Sure the hell beats getting rust pitted and or have the pads or shoes make nice grinding noise that you think is metal to metal the first time out in the spring.
Had a lot of customers who were snowbirds come into the shop in the spring time to have the brakes checked out. Makes a godawful noise as the pads are cleaning the rust off the rotors after a winter time of sitting. I asked this after decades of experience of working on other people's **** that just sits for months at a time.
Now, you done making fun or are you gonna answer the question seriously?
Drive it.. huh? That's all great IF it's an option. But lets just pretend you have a car with saaaay 400-500hp and 4.10's and a shift kit 727 w/a deep stall converter and MT ET Street Radials and paint you care about... that you won't even drive in the rain... :twisted: OP was asking about your prize - not your beater.. "How do you protect your prize during the cold?"
Drive it.. huh? That's all great IF it's an option. But lets just pretend you have a car with saaaay 400-500hp and 4.10's and a shift kit 727 w/a deep stall converter and MT ET Street Radials and paint you care about... that you won't even drive in the rain... :twisted: OP was asking about your prize - not your beater.. "How do you protect your prize during the cold?"
I WAS taking you seriously. And after decades of my own experience working on cars I think putting any kind of oil/grease on your rotors or drums is absolutely as bad an idea as any of the jokes I posted.
The light rust that forms on the drums or rotors over the course of a winter is gone after a couple miles. It doesn't hurt the pads or shoes, and if someone asks you about their squeaking brakes that's exactly what you can tell them. If the car sits long enough for the surface rust to actually pit the rotors or drums then what you need to do is sell the car, because you haven't driven it in several years and you're going to have to do a lot more to get it road worthy than cleaning up the drums and rotors. You're not going to get pitting rust serious enough to damage a set of rotors or drums over the course of a single winter, I don't care where you live. If the rotors and drums are rusting that badly the rest of the car is swiss cheese.
And I did answer the question, I drive my cars year round. Rain, snow, whatever. I drive them. My '74 is the latest model car I own.
Buttmonkey. You stole my answer. lol
. 4 wheel drive with heat - as opposed to a rear wheel drive "race car" with no heat.. :twisted:
Took my 2wd out one afternoon with the wife and son, hit black ice, there was no snow when we left. Old steel hurts.