Thermoquad id

[Franko]

Can anybody please help me identify a Thermoquad No 6-2141? I don't see it listed in a chart of Thermoquad nos. I found. I have a 71 340 and am looking for an 800 cfm carb. Also whether it is listed as manual or automatic. I have a 4 speed. Does anybody know what the difference in the carbs are between an automatic and a stick? If it turns out to be an automatic carb, will it work on a 4 speed.

Thanks

 

[Bad Sport]

That number doesn't seem right. Where are you getting this number off the carb?

What are all of the numbers from the rear left mounting tab??

 

[fishy68]

I have what I think is a complete list of TQ list numbers and there's no 2141. The list # shown for a 71 man trans. is 4972 which is in fact the lowest list # used on a production car. For an auto trans. the list # is 4973.

Like Bruce asked where are you getting that #? The list number is stamped on the left rear mounting pad. Here's a pic of one I had showing the list #

 

[Mrmopartech]

The carb you are looking for is a TQ 4972S for a 4 speed manual 1971.I check my books for a number close to yours and no luck,recheck the number on the hold down tab and post a picture of it so we can ID the carb,if you need carb help or ID questions, PM me,mrmopartech

 

[Franko]

I forgot to put in my thread that I was thinking of buying the Thermoquad and the intake (for $100). So that was the number the guy gave me. After he returns from a trip I’ll talk to him again about it.

Last month I bought a 69 Dart Swinger in which everything is correct except the 71 340 engine and 71 360 heads. The carb is the correct AVS No 4611S. I was considering buying a Thermoquad because I can’t get the choke to work. Also a guy in a carb shop told me the AVS didn’t operate well with today’s gasoline, didn’t tune well and was costly to buy metering rods. Another guy told me they were fine carbs. I would prefer to run the AVS though for correctness.

When I purchased the car it was really hard starting. It turned out the choke is always stuck wide open. The spring seems fine, but the linkage binds in the choke well. And the linkage is too long even though it was bent. It had the correct 45 stamped on it. I ordered a new one with the same result. So I ordered an original one from Tony’s- same result. When I disconnect the choke linkage, the butterfly does not bind. I’ve talked with 3 carb shops and they didn’t know anything about this issue.

It doesn’t seem like the linkage angle will work with the butterfly arm which has swung past the low point (it’s hard to explain). The arm needs to be pushed sideways first, past the low point, then up to work properly. I’ve read prior posts. Even though some members have mentioned some AVS choke issues, I never could determine a resolution that would help me.

Does anybody have any knowledge of this issue and know the way to fix it? It doesn’t seem like an electric choke can be installed, from what I’ve read.

 

[AdamR]

If your not going to run the original carb why not put and Edelbrock 600 on it with an electric choke ? IT will look more correct then the thermoquad will

 

[fishy68]

I forgot to put in my thread that I was thinking of buying the Thermoquad and the intake (for $100). So that was the number the guy gave me. After he returns from a trip I’ll talk to him again about it.

Last month I bought a 69 Dart Swinger in which everything is correct except the 71 340 engine and 71 360 heads. The carb is the correct AVS No 4611S. I was considering buying a Thermoquad because I can’t get the choke to work. Also a guy in a carb shop told me the AVS didn’t operate well with today’s gasoline, didn’t tune well and was costly to buy metering rods. Another guy told me they were fine carbs. I would prefer to run the AVS though for correctness.

When I purchased the car it was really hard starting. It turned out the choke is always stuck wide open. The spring seems fine, but the linkage binds in the choke well. And the linkage is too long even though it was bent. It had the correct 45 stamped on it. I ordered a new one with the same result. So I ordered an original one from Tony’s- same result. When I disconnect the choke linkage, the butterfly does not bind. I’ve talked with 3 carb shops and they didn’t know anything about this issue.

It doesn’t seem like the linkage angle will work with the butterfly arm which has swung past the low point (it’s hard to explain). The arm needs to be pushed sideways first, past the low point, then up to work properly. I’ve read prior posts. Even though some members have mentioned some AVS choke issues, I never could determine a resolution that would help me.

Does anybody have any knowledge of this issue and know the way to fix it? It doesn’t seem like an electric choke can be installed, from what I’ve read.

What intake manifold does this engine have on it? If it's a 71 intake manifold it's not designed for a AVS, 71's came with a thermoquad. That may be the reason your choke linkage seems too long and doesn't work right. If it's an older intake that was designed for an AVS or AFB you can try putting a thicker gasket under it to raise it up. Maybe that'll put the linkage in the proper relationship.

As for an AVS not working well with today's fuel, it will run fine if you use an insulator type gasket under it. The AVS suffers from the same issue that the AFB and Eddy carbs suffer from which is fuel percolation/vapor lock. Since their all aluminum they absorb heat real well and when you shut the engine off heat up so much that the fuel inside vaporizes before it even makes it into the boosters. Fuel line routing also affects it. If the fuel line is routed too close to the exhaust or lower radiator hose it can be heated by that also. Every AFB/AVS I've used I put a 1/4" thick gasket under and paid attention to fuel line routing they worked fine.