These rallye dash bezel overlays are the fricken best

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67fish383S

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I just finished a cosmetic overhaul of a rallye dash bezel out of a '67 Dart that am installing in my '71 Duster 340 4-speed. The bezel that I bought was nice, but all the colors were wrong and it had a DODGE exterior emblem mounted to the glove box trim piece. The linked video does not capture everything I did to make it right, but shows a time-lapse of the final installation of the lower overlays, and it has some before and after pics, some of which I've attached below.

I can't say enough good things about the overlays I got from Detroit Muscle Technologies. They are affordable, shipped quickly, and are really nice and save you a ton of time and trouble over painting or other types of restoration. They stock any config you could possibly need.

And I used a 3M thin, clear, double-stick tape to mount them, which holds them as well as glue, but makes them easier to install and easily removable.

Link to YouTube video that includes pics and a time-lapse of the lower overlay installation:


Links to what I used:
  1. Upper Overlays: Mopar A Body 67 Barracuda Dart Rallye Dash Overlay - WALNUT Vinyl on Aluminum Look Plastic Backing
  2. Lower Overlays: Mopar A Body 70 Dart Rallye Dash Lower Trim Overlay - MATTE BLACK
  3. 3M Tape: Amazon.com
BEFORE (does not show glove box trim):
IMG_0781.jpg


Pics of the glove box rehab:
(Exterior emblem that I removed)
IMG_2479.jpg


(Shows the repair of the holes where the emblem was and then the overlay install)
IMG_0778.jpg


(This was an earlier iteration using a silver overlay that I painted, but ultimately decided to get the correct black)
IMG_0779.jpg


IMG_0780.jpg


The rest of these show some of finishing touches ahead of the lower overlay installation and the finished product:
(Shows the area I painted around the radio knobs and the cracked corner piece drying after being epoxied)
IMG_2430.jpg


IMG_2469.jpg


IMG_2477.jpg


I smoothed the wrinkles from the end piece that I didn't notice until I watched the video:
IMG_2480.jpg
 
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Do they have woodgrain material cut to fit for the top of A Body center consoles?

Follow-up. Yes, they carry console walnut woodgrain.
 
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Do they have woodgrain material cut to fit for the top of A Body center consoles?
I don't know for sure because I've never needed one (don't have any console cars), but I would be shocked if they didn't. Check out their website linked above. The search function is pretty decent compared to the garbage engine on most other websites. Good luck.
 
I don't know for sure because I've never needed one (don't have any console cars), but I would be shocked if they didn't. Check out their website linked above. The search function is pretty decent compared to the garbage engine on most other websites. Good luck.
I did a follow-up and a search. They do have console woodgrain.
 
Good morning, nice work for sure... i do have a quick question, how do you remove the original factory console woodgrain overlay?
i would like to put a new fresh over lay on... i assume it is some type of adhesive... did you use heat? or a solvent? or just a putty knife and hard work.. any suggestions from those that have done it would be appreciated...Rich
 
I just finished a cosmetic overhaul of a rallye dash bezel out of a '67 Dart that am installing in my '71 Duster 340 4-speed. The bezel that I bought was nice, but all the colors were wrong and it had a DODGE exterior emblem mounted to the glove box trim piece. The linked video does not capture everything I did to make it right, but shows a time-lapse of the final installation of the lower overlays, and it has some before and after pics, some of which I've attached below.

I can't say enough good things about the overlays I got from Detroit Muscle Technologies. They are affordable, shipped quickly, and are really nice and save you a ton of time and trouble over painting or other types of restoration. They stock any config you could possibly need.

And I used a 3M thin, clear, double-stick tape to mount them, which holds them as well as glue, but makes them easier to install and easily removable.

Link to YouTube video that includes pics and a time-lapse of the lower overlay installation:


Links to what I used:
  1. Upper Overlays: Mopar A Body 67 Barracuda Dart Rallye Dash Overlay - WALNUT Vinyl on Aluminum Look Plastic Backing
  2. Lower Overlays: Mopar A Body 70 Dart Rallye Dash Lower Trim Overlay - MATTE BLACK
  3. 3M Tape: Amazon.com


What did you do for the mounting holes. I had installed an overlay years ago and totally screwed up the holes but its a lot better than it was and hardly noticeable unless I point it out to you. The material was very brittle when new. Let me know so my next attempt goes better than the first one. Thanks in advance
 
I just finished a cosmetic overhaul of a rallye dash bezel out of a '67 Dart that am installing in my '71 Duster 340 4-speed. The bezel that I bought was nice, but all the colors were wrong and it had a DODGE exterior emblem mounted to the glove box trim piece. The linked video does not capture everything I did to make it right, but shows a time-lapse of the final installation of the lower overlays, and it has some before and after pics, some of which I've attached below.

I can't say enough good things about the overlays I got from Detroit Muscle Technologies. They are affordable, shipped quickly, and are really nice and save you a ton of time and trouble over painting or other types of restoration. They stock any config you could possibly need.

And I used a 3M thin, clear, double-stick tape to mount them, which holds them as well as glue, but makes them easier to install and easily removable.

Link to YouTube video that includes pics and a time-lapse of the lower overlay installation:


Links to what I used:
  1. Upper Overlays: Mopar A Body 67 Barracuda Dart Rallye Dash Overlay - WALNUT Vinyl on Aluminum Look Plastic Backing
  2. Lower Overlays: Mopar A Body 70 Dart Rallye Dash Lower Trim Overlay - MATTE BLACK
  3. 3M Tape: Amazon.com
BEFORE (does not show glove box trim):
View attachment 1716280466

Pics of the glove box rehab:
(Exterior emblem that I removed)
View attachment 1716280467

(Shows the repair of the holes where the emblem was and then the overlay install)
View attachment 1716280468

(This was an earlier iteration using a silver overlay that I painted, but ultimately decided to get the correct black)
View attachment 1716280469

View attachment 1716280470

The rest of these show some of finishing touches ahead of the lower overlay installation and the finished product:
(Shows the area I painted around the radio knobs and the cracked corner piece drying after being epoxied)
View attachment 1716280471

View attachment 1716280472

View attachment 1716280473

I smoothed the wrinkles from the end piece that I didn't notice until I watched the video:
View attachment 1716280474

Dang, Looks great.
 
Good morning, nice work for sure... i do have a quick question, how do you remove the original factory console woodgrain overlay?
i would like to put a new fresh over lay on... i assume it is some type of adhesive... did you use heat? or a solvent? or just a putty knife and hard work.. any suggestions from those that have done it would be appreciated...Rich
So I won't be much help because I have never tried to remove one. I would think some heat (within reason) would be what I would try first. But then again, I'd likely just apply the new over the old using the tape I linked to above. Good luck.
:thumbsup:
 
@gtgto said: "What did you do for the mounting holes. I had installed an overlay years ago and totally screwed up the holes but its a lot better than it was and hardly noticeable unless I point it out to you. The material was very brittle when new. Let me know so my next attempt goes better than the first one. Thanks in advance"

I just used drill bits - starting very small and in the center of each hole as best I could - and then gradually widened the holes until they were right. Obviously it is easiest to do this after the overlays are applied and while the bezel is still on the bench. Trying to measure and cut the holes in a fresh overlay sounds like an exercise in frustration to me. You don't have to be super-precise, just careful. And these overlays are not brittle at all, which may be what caused you to have the trouble with yours.

Now all of that said, why they don't have the holes in them to begin with is a head-scratcher for sure. Surely it would have cost nothing to include them in the original design. :rolleyes:

Anyway, good luck.
 
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@gtgto said: "What did you do for the mounting holes. I had installed an overlay years ago and totally screwed up the holes but its a lot better than it was and hardly noticeable unless I point it out to you. The material was very brittle when new. Let me know so my next attempt goes better than the first one. Thanks in advance"

I just used drill bits - starting very small and in the center of each hole as best I could - and then gradually widened the holes until they were right. Obviously it is easiest to do this after the overlays are applied and while the bezel is still on the bench. Trying to measure and cut the holes in a fresh overlay sounds like an exercise in frustration to me. You don't have to be super-precise, just careful. and these overlays are not brittle at all, which may be what caused you to have the trouble with yours.

Now all of that said, why they don't have the holes in them to begin with is a head-scratcher for sure. Surely it would have cost nothing to include them in the original design. :rolleyes:

Anyway, good luck.
Drilled these this morning. Final hole size is 5/32".

IMG_2622.jpg


IMG_2619.jpg

Mopar Thumbs UP.jpg
 
Now all of that said, why they don't have the holes in them to begin with is a head-scratcher for sure. Surely it would have cost nothing to include them in the original design.
I was thinking DMT may have intended that the bottom overlay would be applied after the bezel was screwed into the dash so that the screws would be covered. I prefer letting them show like when the cars left the factory so I appreciate the tips posted above.
 
I was thinking DMT may have intended that the bottom overlay would be applied after the bezel was screwed into the dash so that the screws would be covered. I prefer letting them show like when the cars left the factory so I appreciate the tips posted above.
I did not consider that, but it makes sense.
:thumbsup:
 
I made the holes in mine with a paper punch and opened them up as necessary with a die grinder bit by hand-NOT in a die grinder.
 
I like the Revell chrome spray paint. I used this on my glove box trim before I installed the Detroit Muscle overlay.
 
Has anyone else used the lower overlays? The last pic in the OP post shows the radio area, and to me, the fit is not very good at all, it appears that the cutouts of the overlay are too large. Is it just me, or is it actually better than it looks?
 
I’m wanting to do same to my bezel but I’d like avoiding buying a complete new one if possible. 2 questions. Is there any chance to restore the chrome? What do you have for the knobs for radio? I’m wanting to switch from rollers to knobs. I’d appreciate any advice! 1970 dodge dart swinger
 
I’m wanting to do same to my bezel but I’d like avoiding buying a complete new one if possible. 2 questions. Is there any chance to restore the chrome? What do you have for the knobs for radio? I’m wanting to switch from rollers to knobs. I’d appreciate any advice! 1970 dodge dart swinger
Its plastic chrome and can't be restored as it has flaked off. You can get the bezels restored but its not cheap either. You could try spraying with Revell spray chrome or something like that. You can't change the radio from roller to knobs.
 
I’m wanting to do same to my bezel but I’d like avoiding buying a complete new one if possible. 2 questions. Is there any chance to restore the chrome? What do you have for the knobs for radio? I’m wanting to switch from rollers to knobs. I’d appreciate any advice! 1970 dodge dart swinger
LIke @1MeanA said, you cant simply change from the roller style to knob style radio. My advice, keep it the way it is, personally I think the roller(factory) style radio is way more cool. It technically is possible to change though, but it will cost you a whole pile of money when it comes to buying a new radio, then a new bezel to fit your new radio, then finding a new(or refabbing your existing) dash frame to fit the new radio frame because the roller and knobs radios mount up differently in the dash frame. I know because I'm in the process of doing the reverse, putting a roller back into my car because some PO hack-jobbed a knob style radio into her :mad:
But then again, anything can be done on the cheap if you just want to hack it up :rolleyes:
 
Cuda44.7.png
Do they have woodgrain material cut to fit for the top of A Body center consoles?

Follow-up. Yes, they carry console walnut woodgrain.
I know it isn't original/stock, but I used real wood on the 4 speed 69 Barracuda console. I bought a small roll of real oak veneer at Lowes. It was pretty thin; maybe 1/16". I made two one piece templates from thin cardboard. That was the hardest part. Then I transferred the patterns to the wood and cut it out with a razor blade cutter. Once the fit was perfect, I stained it and sprayed a few coats of gloss clear urethane varnish on it. Then I glued it on with contact cement. It looks really good, even after 20+ years.
 
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