Hmm....I had one when I lived in Fluriduh.
Those expecting parts from me...
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
- Start date
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Hmm....I had one when I lived in Fluriduh.
daredevil
Well-Known Member
I could be wrong. Probably a city requirement. When city meters have a back flow preventer they are nessasary in case the t&p valve fails.On a well you wouldnt need one. All the trailers i,ve serviced were on wells. I usually only do homes.They havent started requiring them in the houston area yet.
Disconnect and ohm the element.
They are usually OK, or open, although I have seen them out of spec, but rarely.
It is usually The bottom one, as stated.
After checking both, reconnect it and turn up the bottom about 7 degrees, then turn up the top one 12*. Notice how the pots feel, if they feel bad, they might be.
Verify 240 at the bottom element, then get yourself a beer, sit down in front of the unit, and wait for the click, as the thermostat switches to the top one, then verify 240 there.
That's pretty much it.
If it is the bottom element, get a 16 oz cup, and a bath towel (folded and bunched below the element), and you should be able to change it without losing a full 16 oz of water.
In my experience, you are actually more likely to ruin the drain valve (and thus the whole thing) trying to drain an old unit, than messing up anything else.
(put the rubber seal on the new element before loosening the bolts, or element, if it's screw in, and have everything oriented and ready to bolt back so you save those few seconds)
If the pipes are in good shape, and you don't open any faucets open, you should have enough vacuum to create a relative hydro-lock to help prevent loosing water.
For as simple as they are, water heaters are awfully intimidating for a lot of people.
Even professional building maintenance folks, for some reason.
They are usually OK, or open, although I have seen them out of spec, but rarely.
It is usually The bottom one, as stated.
After checking both, reconnect it and turn up the bottom about 7 degrees, then turn up the top one 12*. Notice how the pots feel, if they feel bad, they might be.
Verify 240 at the bottom element, then get yourself a beer, sit down in front of the unit, and wait for the click, as the thermostat switches to the top one, then verify 240 there.
That's pretty much it.
If it is the bottom element, get a 16 oz cup, and a bath towel (folded and bunched below the element), and you should be able to change it without losing a full 16 oz of water.
In my experience, you are actually more likely to ruin the drain valve (and thus the whole thing) trying to drain an old unit, than messing up anything else.
(put the rubber seal on the new element before loosening the bolts, or element, if it's screw in, and have everything oriented and ready to bolt back so you save those few seconds)
If the pipes are in good shape, and you don't open any faucets open, you should have enough vacuum to create a relative hydro-lock to help prevent loosing water.
For as simple as they are, water heaters are awfully intimidating for a lot of people.
Even professional building maintenance folks, for some reason.
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
Rob, pretend it is a carburetor that you have never worked on before and just dive in as you follow directions. As stated above electric water heaters are really quite simple.
MoparDaddy
Damn Right I Carry!
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