Yet another 2bbl swap with the usual hiccups. The first video is my initial attempt at ignition. Not much luck there. The gang on Facebook said the float was stuck and/or the choke wasn’t functioning properly. I opened the choke for my second attempt (second video), which yielded results. Still, there was much to say about the fuel, and clearly a check was needed. I took the carburetor apart and made sure everything was in spec (float was level, meter was adjusted, needle was functioning, accelerator rod, fast idle, and unloader adjusted as well as the choke). I installed the carb, plugged the vacuum ports that needed plugging (aside from crank case which is the source of smoke in the 3rd video… EGR is plated off, by the way and the vacuum amplifier was removed), and no ignition happened. Before, it was too much fuel, now it’s acting like there is not enough, and spark seems to be the concern. How, though? I had enough fuel before and it fired up when the choke was open. Just a little confused, but not yet defeated.
Thoughts? 2bbl Swap Gone Wrong?
- Thread starter zmarty27
- Start date
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4mulas
Fixem'up
Maybe when your wife told you there was smoke you fried your ignition. Have you checked for spark?
What kind of carburetor is that and where did you get it?
What kind of carburetor is that and where did you get it?
I believe she was referring to the crankcase breather. In the first video, you may see the smoke from video three. Ignition is the stock electronic ignition paired with a mini starter from a Dakota. It has worked beautifully with the 1920.
As for the carb, it’s a Carter BBD. Year unknown (tagless). I purchased from a high rated seller on ebay. Internal components were in great shape. Settings were spot-on aside from a minor tweak here and there.
As for spark, I’m going to check tonight to see if all plugs are good (they should be since I replaced them only a few hundred miles ago). I purchased a new cap and rotor which will be installed tomorrow if not tonight.
slantsixdan
=..=
When it ran, it sounded like at least one cylinder was consistently not firing. Makes me think severe vacuum leak, perhaps at intake-to-head junction. What kind of gasket did you use there?
Do I hear the buzz of an electric fuel pump?
Oh and pump the gas some more. lol
Oh and pump the gas some more. lol
A Fel-Pro
That is the sound of my door being wide open. Lol The first two videos, fuel was absolutely DUMPED. Third time was a rather normal amount of fuel when I throttled at the carb.
I’ll take some soap and water to it when I get an extra pair of hands on board.
340six
King Of Bling
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Don't get the one that does not Flam.
I remember a Roadkill where Friebuger or Finn tried to starring a car with Non Flam. So look at can make sure it Flam
slantsixdan
=..=
Oof. It is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets that actually seal for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions.
Thank you for the link! Full transparency, I’m moving across town in a week, hence the reason I’m back on this project. Is there a quick remedy to seal the leak (if and when I find it) just to get it a few miles down the road?
slantsixdan
=..=
Problem is, we can't say for sure yet if that's what's doing it. A dead cylinder or two could also be the result of way too much gasoline. Pull the spark plugs; what do they all look like?
The easy answer is a tow truck.
That’s my plan B. Lol
Dave999
Well-Known Member
this could be something as simple as auto choke set wrong
if its a heat box and rod actuated choke
set the linkage and rod so that when cold the choke flap hangs open a playing card thickness crack, just open at the lower side
if its manual do the same. set choke pull so it cannot pull the choke flap so tight against the air horn that it has sealed it totally off. hair line crack necessary
that hard-closed flap, can seal off the air flow to an extreme level, which on a car that could have a less than optimum ignition system or timing, flood the motor double quick. and then it won't start again until tomorrow.... unless you take out plugs and dry it all out
or are you using a 318 2bbl on a slant 6... you really need one with slant 6 rods n jets and preferably the tiny rod spring, it is a calibrated part to make you run on thin or fat bit of rod, dependent on the vacuum seen at the carb, and that varies between motors
Dave
if its a heat box and rod actuated choke
set the linkage and rod so that when cold the choke flap hangs open a playing card thickness crack, just open at the lower side
if its manual do the same. set choke pull so it cannot pull the choke flap so tight against the air horn that it has sealed it totally off. hair line crack necessary
that hard-closed flap, can seal off the air flow to an extreme level, which on a car that could have a less than optimum ignition system or timing, flood the motor double quick. and then it won't start again until tomorrow.... unless you take out plugs and dry it all out
or are you using a 318 2bbl on a slant 6... you really need one with slant 6 rods n jets and preferably the tiny rod spring, it is a calibrated part to make you run on thin or fat bit of rod, dependent on the vacuum seen at the carb, and that varies between motors
Dave
Hey Dan, I'm going to pull the plugs this evening for you. Sorry for the delay.
Hey Dave, I appreciate the response. I suppose my struggle is understanding fully what the choke settings should/shouldn't be. By the book, I've got it all lined out. I am, however, using a mystery BBD. From my research, though, this came from a Slant in the 80's (looks a lot like those placed on D-100's). I reached out to Mike's Carburetors regarding some identification. Still waiting to hear back. I'll be sure to check with them regarding a rebuild kit that is Slant friendly.
timk225
Well-Known Member
That's something my wife would say. "I was looking at the gold thing". 
Only she would say "The gold thingy".
I don't like the sound of that small newer starter. It should have a regular classic starter in it.
Only she would say "The gold thingy".
I don't like the sound of that small newer starter. It should have a regular classic starter in it.
Lol Great minds think alike!That's something my wife would say. "I was looking at the gold thing".
Only she would say "The gold thingy".
I don't like the sound of that small newer starter. It should have a regular classic starter in it.
It took me a while to get used to the mini starter. I do miss the sound of the old one, but the mini just cranks a heckuva lot better.
Deltatech
Well-Known Member
clean all of your plugs. Pay attention to what it smells and feels like when cranking it. As the years pass you will be able to smell if it's rich or lean or no spark.
First video sounds flooded. could probably smell the mix of burnt and fresh gas coming out the tail pipe.
Second a few fouled plugs. probably smells kinda like burned oil and less like fresh gas.
The last video sounds like the plugs are all fouled. smells like just fresh oil and gas but not burning.
First video sounds flooded. could probably smell the mix of burnt and fresh gas coming out the tail pipe.
Second a few fouled plugs. probably smells kinda like burned oil and less like fresh gas.
The last video sounds like the plugs are all fouled. smells like just fresh oil and gas but not burning.
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Thanks, Deltatech. I'll follow up with you all tonight with pics.
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