Deltatech
Well-Known Member
Good luck! Cool, I'm just putting a cam in the 440 today and living the retired life. Not far from the forum for most of the day.
Thoughts? 2bbl Swap Gone Wrong?
- Thread starter zmarty27
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Dave999
Well-Known Member
might be useful, this is from the hemi 6 factory/dealer books. and for the older model carb.
resetting all of this sorted mine out..too many attempts to make it "go well" done under shady trees over the 30 years of its life before i got it had everything set wrong.
They have come out in the wrong order start at the bottom
resetting all of this sorted mine out..too many attempts to make it "go well" done under shady trees over the 30 years of its life before i got it had everything set wrong.
They have come out in the wrong order start at the bottom
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And good luck to you! Keep us posted on your progress.
The 318 BBD works good on them, but the lever that the choke actually connects to is different. Easy to change, one 10-24 (5/16 wrench head) fastener... I bought 3 of the /6 ones from eBay a couple of years ago, I still saw them listed like last fall.
Likely oil build-up from when I did some work on the head. I’m willing to bet some residual sludge fouled. Anyhow, I’m no pro. Could be I’m running rich or cold…
not terrible, not alot of actual carbon buildup and electrodes not "rounded off". #4 and 5 look the "richest" (most black) maybe #6 has some buildup on the insulator. don't look fuel glazed, like a flooded engine would get. if you spin them around in your fingers do what is the "back side" in pix, look the same? How long since this headwork? Residual oil in the cylinders should burn off pretty quick if it is in fact "residual".
I had the head milled two Decembers ago (.0010, if I remember correctly). Likely only have a few hundred miles on the head, and the same for this oil. On the dipstick, it was still clean and clear. As for the spark plugs, it’s consistent on all, all the way around.
Deltatech
Well-Known Member
tip of the plug close to the electrode=idle too rich
middle transition=part throttle too rich
and I can't see down in the bottom where you actually read overall and WOT .That car makes mostly short trips? The plugs look like it's shut off cold too often. It needs a long drive at highway speed after you get it sorted.
None are tan. They look too cold of a plug but it's too early to tell.
Also looks like the timing needs adjusted. There should be a nice (blue on a fresh plug) line just below where the ground strap makes the sharp bend and above the weld.
I'd clean those, throw em back in and check the fuel filter and then reset the float.
middle transition=part throttle too rich
and I can't see down in the bottom where you actually read overall and WOT .That car makes mostly short trips? The plugs look like it's shut off cold too often. It needs a long drive at highway speed after you get it sorted.
None are tan. They look too cold of a plug but it's too early to tell.
Also looks like the timing needs adjusted. There should be a nice (blue on a fresh plug) line just below where the ground strap makes the sharp bend and above the weld.
I'd clean those, throw em back in and check the fuel filter and then reset the float.
slantsixdan
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Those are ZFR5Ns—not too hot or cold of a plug; they're just right. Not the cleanest I've seen, but they're not showing evidence of a super-rich condition. The bright white appearance of a plug from a cylinder running super-lean (vacuum leak at manifold to head junction, for instance) would take awhile's worth of runtime to show up, so we can't rule that out, but at least we know the carb isn't dumping in way too much fuel.
As soon as it’s road ready, I’ll take a cruise at 65 for a bit. Sounds like a good excuse to run it.
Ordering your recommendation tonight. Also, I went ahead and replaced the distributor cap and rotor (I’ve had the car for fifteen years and put 20k on the ride… It was time) earlier this afternoon. Hopefully once the vacuum is handled, we’ll get it going better than before. I also have the electric choke installed from Mike’s… I have little experience with these. Does it demand a lot of adjustments?
slantsixdan
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Well, it'll have to be dialled in, and that might take half a dozen cold starts to get just right, but no, once you've got it set up, it should stay put.
Got it. Thanks for the help. I’ll keep the thread posted when I get that gasket in.
Finally got the gasket in. While I take care of the install, what do you guys think about the choke? I thought I had it all dialed in, but there were a lot of questions I didn’t know how to answer. I was going off the book specs, and the specs from Mike’s. Anyhow, thanks again!
slantsixdan
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What is your question about the choke? Do you mean why does it open as you near full throttle like that? If so, it's supposed to do that; the tang on the throttle lever that pushes the choke open is called the "choke unloader". You use it — by flooring the accelerator and keeping it there as you operate the starter — to clear out a flooded cold engine (for example by too many accelerator pumps) so it'll start.
Particularly in response to Dave999’s post on page 1. I posted this thread on the Facebook Slant Six page, and a few mentioned the choke not operating to its full capacity. Considering I’m basing my repairs strictly on the book without video visuals to tell what the choke is supposed to act like in action, I’m as good as blind. If it looks like the function is spot on, then good. I’m glad I did something right.
I’m going to post a video with the gaskets installed here in a bit.
slantsixdan
=..=
Dave999 meant well, but his advice (playing cards, etc) was not on.
I don't see anything the matter with the choke in this vid, though I can't tell how it's wired up (so I can't see if you've got the correct controller, wired correctly, etc). If it gives you any guff, replace the halfaѕѕed factory-type hardware with a № 1232 electric choke kit, which — unlike the factory setup — is adjustable.
I don't see anything the matter with the choke in this vid, though I can't tell how it's wired up (so I can't see if you've got the correct controller, wired correctly, etc). If it gives you any guff, replace the halfaѕѕed factory-type hardware with a № 1232 electric choke kit, which — unlike the factory setup — is adjustable.
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