Thoughts on enamel paint.

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1968FormulaS340

1968FormulaS340

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Thoughts on enamel paint.

Im talking about the factory paint or the old school, single stage enamel.

It has a look, glow, solidity you don't see in the modern paint process.

My car does not need paint but if I do get it repainted I want a factory like enamel job.

What are your thoughts?
 
When I bought my car, the paint was so faded and discolored. I compounded most of it, and wet sanded other parts. The color came back so bright and shiny. It is unbelievable how well the 40 plus year old paint held up.

I always thought, and still do, that when I do get it repainted, I would like to use the single stage. It just has a very aunthentic look to it.
 
Single Stage Urethane is a lot more durable than SS Enamel
 
I painted my 67vert in 1994, with acrylic enamel and it shines just like the first day it was done. I plan on doing some needed repairs and I will paint it with acrylic enamel with hardener again. It is simple, long lasting, and color sanding is a breeze.
 
I'm no bodyman but when I bought my paint they told me s.s. urethane was more durable and s.s. enamal had a better shine. I don't know if thats true or not. I bought the enamel and I'm very pleased with the finish.
 
I like the Acrylic Enamel... I sent my boys to the paint store to get a gallon of Charcoal... they were quoted 440 for a gallon of Delstar (PPG) and ended up coming home with a gallon of Centari (Dupont) for about 200.... WOW, sticker shock for me!
 
yea paint is nuts on price...... old enamel used to fill in allot of sand scratches back in the day...not any more....make sure you finish the job just like you were going to use dual stage and buy the right color shade primer so it won't bleed through... Nice stuff though
 
I have in the past year sprayed NAPA Martin Senior paints.

The one time I was really impressed was with my neighbors white truck. Don't know why he was in such a hurry (got a spare truck just like it) but one morning I had to go out at 4:30 and shoot before the next rainstorm.
Went out and the truck was wet. Fired propane and started drying (both sides of bed)
Was shooting at 5Am at about 97% moisture 54* outside.
SHOT IT! (White truck last 2 pics NOT Fern!)
When I gave it back I told him if he woke up in the morning and there was a long white round plastic staw on the ground next to his bed, to look up on the side of the truck cause his paint rolled up and slid off that night!!!!!8)

It's still looks pretty good!!

Remember FABO, I do not recomend doing this at home!
I am not a professional painter!
Just use me as a very good reference for what NOT to do!
I really don't think you need as much hardener as the say either. The more you use though the faster it sets. really expensive though. (Ran out on the white truck on the last coat!
Still OK!

The only problem? Lost track of the formula for the 64. Even went in with one of their old chip sheet from 1964!
They copuld not translate formula from chip chart to their new computer system. 1 year prior they mixed a quart no problem.
Now I have to go 30 miles away to Smyth. They have a camera to shoot the color on your car and go in, plug it up, mix, shake, pay, leave!!
I always shoot 1 stage color, it always turns out very bright and metalic looking with high gloss. Then I still shoot a couple coats clear, just to have something to cut & buff.

Hey! It'l buff out!!!!:cheers:

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I used alot of Acrylic enamel before I tried base coat. I really like the enamel with a solid color. You can color sand it and buff it if you want to. I had a 68 Charger that was viper red, the paint was on the car for 16 years before I sold it. Had a lot people at the Carlisle Nationals ask me if it was base coat clear. Never had a problem with acrylic enamel.

charger.JPG
 
I had one car done in base coat/clear coat, and will never have another. It was done by a professional. Looked gorgeous, but you couldnt touch it without leaving some type of mark. Had to use microfiber cloths to clean it without scratching it.

Any cars I had with enamel, you could lean on them, sit on them, do whatever you wanted. Wash em with a bucket and sponge. Shammy dry. Wax. Just like the old days.

I had my last two cars done in enamel, and they look just as nice as the BC/CC at a fraction of the cost, and a fraction of the headaches.
 
As a collision repairman almost everything I have done for the past 15+ years is bc/cc. However a few years ago I bought a '77 Sport Fury that only had 24,*** miles on it. It needed a little touchup below the lower body moulding. I bought some acrylic enamel and shot it. I had forgotten how nice it was to use and how original it looked. When I traded Small Block out of the '74 Swinger it had had some touchups on the sides done in the past. On part of the car they had tried to blend a repair using clearcoat. To me it looked terrible and 'phony'. So I just shot both sides with acrylic enamel. It matched the texture and look of the original paint and looked outstanding. If I live long enough to get my TB3 Blue Dart Sport finished I plan to paint it with acrylic enamel also.
Dallas
 
Just to add;

The old "enamel" paints were baked in long ovens at 350 degrees F (metal temperature) for 30-40 min. They were called TSA enamels. (thermo-set acrylic). That's why they appear to be so "hard". In some cases they were very close to being overdone.

I don't know of any aftermarket bump & grind shop that has that capability, nor would your plastic or rubber parts be able to endure that tempertaure at the required dwell time.

The old refinish single stage enamel systems are not capable of this extreme heat, even with an acid catalyst.


The current 2k urethane systems are the best for refinishing. Just make sure it's a well known brand, that back their products.


To the comment on base/clear scratch resistance. Some of the earlier base/clear systems didn't have a "slip aid" in the clear coat. This silicone based material allowed you to wipe or wash the car without excessive scratching of the surface layer.

FYI - The new waterborne base/2k clear systems are showing better overall performance than any of the current 2k solventborne urethane systems. This observation was from a controlled lab evaluation.

Nice "fern painting"! I'm impressed!!

my 2 cents.

sscuda
 
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