Thoughts on this LA360 combo

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Devon Arden

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Good day people! Rather new here ..long time reader ..freshy poster

I recently acquired a late '79 aspen R/T that has had a LA360 put together in the end of 2021..it already has the parts in it im going to list but am adding aluminum heads to the mix..I am curious what you guys think of the combo and where ISH I might land powerwise ..thanks for your time guys!

mopar la 360 bored 30 over

Performance world 63171A-2 aluminum heads 179cc runner 63 cc combustion chamber and 2.02 valve (coming this christmas)

keith black kb107 pistons

comp cams 20-223-3 xe268 camshaft

weiand action + intake

holley 750 vac sec carb

Msd 6AL

Just had a 46rh transmission rebuilt with some nice billet parts and extra clutches and pimped out shift kit

Ford 8.8 rear end posi (unsure of ratio)

Screenshot_20251126_133557_Discord.jpg
 
Good day people! Rather new here ..long time reader ..freshy poster

I recently acquired a late '79 aspen R/T that has had a LA360 put together in the end of 2021..it already has the parts in it im going to list but am adding aluminum heads to the mix..I am curious what you guys think of the combo and where ISH I might land powerwise ..thanks for your time guys!

mopar la 360 bored 30 over

Performance world 63171A-2 aluminum heads 179cc runner 63 cc combustion chamber and 2.02 valve (coming this christmas)

keith black kb107 pistons

comp cams 20-223-3 xe268 camshaft

weiand action + intake

holley 750 vac sec carb

Msd 6AL

Just had a 46rh transmission rebuilt with some nice billet parts and extra clutches and pimped out shift kit

Ford 8.8 rear end posi (unsure of ratio)

View attachment 1716489912
ICON FHR Piston Set cheap insurance.
 

Cool car! I'd say 360-375 HP possibly more if you can tune well. That is, until the Comp cam and lifters wipe lobes and kill lifters.
 
What sparked me getting these heads in the very near future was I had a slight tick starting on the driver's side ..I was doing a leak down test to see how the health of the rings and valve seats are just for peace of mind
and while I was messing around doing the test ..I had the valve cover off of the driver's side taking a look to see if anyhting stood out ...I was checking for wobbly or loose pushrods and while i didnt seem to find anyhting at the time tha was sloppy or loose I grabbed a rocker where it seats on the top of the valve an was able to lift it up clean a clear from the top of the valve- depressing the pushrod down into the lifter with what I would say is damn near no effort ..I can push the rod right down into the lifter with what feels like only spring pressure fighting back ...no pump in the lifter ? I beleive the term is collapsed lifter ? It does pump up and running with only a slight tick ..but that worried me knowing it lost its pump within 20 min of doing leak down test ...and of course due to me depressing the plunger while the car was not running completely emptied it and when I did end up running it again it made a terrible racket till they pumped back up ..

So a set of lifters is in order...and while I got the intake off and lifters out ..no better time to bolt on some aluminum heads right ?!

I just hope it hasn't messed up a cam lobe ..I ordered a set of the 310303016 diamond like coated lifters to help reduce the break in risks (suggested by a 45 year tech at a local respected machine shop who loves mopar) as the dlc coating is hard and slick and is a better option when just changing lifters and not the cam (if the cam is okay)
 
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I am correct in calling it a collapsed lifter? I should not be able to push the push rod down with a lot of ease,correct?
Am I still in danger of wiping a cam lobe, if the lifter doesn't get fully pumped or retain its pump?... Seems like it would be if anything less pressure against the cam While acting as a spongy lifter? Or should I be expecting to find out that I need a new cam?
 
Are you hearing valve train noise when the engine runs?
I do hear a light tick that comes an goes with heat and rpm it is not obnoxious and does not make one think immediatly this should not be driven ...the only reason I feel something is wrong initially was the lack of pump in the lifters when I had the valve cover off and was able to easily depress the pushrods down into the lifters with ease ..basically spring pressure in the lifter is all I felt for resistance..

When I have the intake off and heads off ..Will I not be able to take a decent look at the cam lobes from the top valley area ? Should be able to see or feel a problem on lobes from above without taking it out correct ?

Ive stopped driving it since discovering this hoping to keep the cam lobes from being smoked...like I said ..I make cars straight n shiny ..the mechanical..well thats being learned as fast as I can
 
I do hear a light tick that comes an goes with heat and rpm it is not obnoxious and does not make one think immediatly this should not be driven ...the only reason I feel something is wrong initially was the lack of pump in the lifters when I had the valve cover off and was able to easily depress the pushrods down into the lifters with ease ..basically spring pressure in the lifter is all I felt for resistance..

When I have the intake off and heads off ..Will I not be able to take a decent look at the cam lobes from the top valley area ? Should be able to see or feel a problem on lobes from above without taking it out correct ?

Ive stopped driving it since discovering this hoping to keep the cam lobes from being smoked...like I said ..I make cars straight n shiny ..the mechanical..well thats being learned as fast as I can
If that cam wipes a lobe be pulling the whole engine.
 
I just did an oil change and filter change 2 weeks ago ..looked clean with nothing concerning in it ..did not cut open filter but took a flash light to the oil after to see ..and was not concerned...if the cam is hooped ..can it be pulled with the engine in the car ?
 
I just did an oil change and filter change 2 weeks ago ..looked clean with nothing concerning in it ..did not cut open filter but took a flash light to the oil after to see ..and was not concerned...if the cam is hooped ..can it be pulled with the engine in the car ?
Yes you can swap the camshaft while the engine is in the vehicle as long as you have clearance that allows the length of the cam to clear the forward most bearing bore. An extreme scenario would be pulling the grill.

RRR is looking out for you…

Any particles would be trapped in the filter element. You may pick up some glitter with a flashlight while you’re looking at the oil, but that’s it

Always put a magnetic drain plug.
 
I guess ill just have to wait till the heads show up with the new lifters and i get the top end taken apart ...take a good look at the base of the suspected bad lifters ...and then with the valley opened take a good look at the corresponding can lobe for any groove or pitting or scuffing ? If i find bad lobe ..take out rad and trans cooler and grille ..and order up a new camshaft ? Sounds about right ?
 
You may not have to take the grille out, but otherwise yes, pretty much what you outlined. I would be pretty surprised if the cam is undamaged, but it's possible. Chances are the lobe has been worn down and you might need to put a dial gauge on it to measure the lift compared to other lobes, otherwise pull it out.
Just my .02
 
If the lifters are losing their pump very shortly after its shut off ..will thay mske the reading from dial indicated appear off? No pump in lifter means it wont lift it up as much as one with pump? So it would appear like the cam lobe isnt raising it as much ? Or am I wrong in that?
 
If the lifters are losing their pump very shortly after its shut off ..will thay mske the reading from dial indicated appear off? No pump in lifter means it wont lift it up as much as one with pump? So it would appear like the cam lobe isnt raising it as much ? Or am I wrong in that?
Come Monday...pick up the phone and call Delta Cams, Schneider Cams or Oregon Cams and ease your worries.They grind cams for a living!

When you reach out to any of those three shops, you'll be speaking with someone who "can operate" the cam grinder and ship a quality product. You wont be speaking with a "tech."

I do believe the #%&* Cams Co was also taken over by a "group" so they can afford to push ....
 
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I just did an oil change and filter change 2 weeks ago ..looked clean with nothing concerning in it ..did not cut open filter but took a flash light to the oil after to see ..and was not concerned...if the cam is hooped ..can it be pulled with the engine in the car ?
If there are wiped lobes and trashed lifters, where did that metal go? Take a few deep breaths and think really hard.

It's the filter's job to catch trash, but that trash, or lobes and lifters in this case, has fallen into the lifter valley and into the oil pan. Once there, it's sucked up into the oil pump and sent to the filter. All modern filters have bypass valves. Once the filter is stopped up, the bypass valve in the filter opens and allows unfiltered oil to the engine.

But now, this is putting the cart before the horse without hard evidence. I would go ahead with your plans to remove the intake and inspect the cam and lifters. Make sure if you remove any lifters, keep up with where they came from. Post pictures here if you have any questions about how everything looks. It could be that you have one or two lifters that are lazy (bad) and won't stay pumped up. Keep us posted.
 
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