Throw out bearing

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1973dusterkid

1973dusterkid

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Ok I just have put a new clutch/throw out bearing in the car. It had been in there about 150 miles. Now when you have the clutch press and tap the gas the bearing starts chattering and you release the clutch it stops and press the clutch again no noise till you tap the gas. It also chatters when I go into reverse.You can also feel the vibrating in the clutch.
 
Could be a bad bearing or clutch finger, imo. Likely needs to come apart again.

Can you look from the bottom or side & make sure the bearing is on the fork correctly? Mine has a blowshield so I can only look thru the fork hole.
 
80fbody said:
Could be a bad bearing or clutch finger, imo. Likely needs to come apart again.

Can you look from the bottom or side & make sure the bearing is on the fork correctly? Mine has a blowshield so I can only look thru the fork hole.
Click to expand...

Looking at it I don't see anything wrong
 
If both springs are holding the bearing & the fork is on the stud correctly then I'd say it's got to come apart for inspection. Whose clutch? Wonder if you over-extended one of the fingers or a spring in the clutch hat could have broke/come loose.
 
80fbody said:
If both springs are holding the bearing & the fork is on the stud correctly then I'd say it's got to come apart for inspection. Whose clutch? Wonder if you over-extended one of the fingers or a spring in the clutch hat could have broke/come loose.
Click to expand...


Its a mcloud street clutch
 
Damn, they have a great rep. My buddy runs one & that'll be my next. Have a Hayes now & not a fan.
 
Did you do anything with the pilot bushing while it was out?
Might be dry.
During every symtom you described the input shaft is not turning.
 
If you haven't I'd replace with a newer roller pilot while it's out. I've had issues like that in the past. Once I spent $$ to have a flywheel balanced to a 360. Assembled everything, new clutch, etc only to have the disk catch on the inside edge of the flywheel. Made a racket. Apparently I had a 273 flywheel or something with smaller factory clutch. Ended up buying a new Hayes SFI flywheel.
 
I ordered a clutch package from Rock Auto once, a three-fingered pressure plate. I checked the (Chinese) parts before I installed them, found the throw-out bearing in the set barely set on the end of the three fingers. I imagined what could happen down the road, so I ended up returning it. Got me a LOK set locally instead and found that the bearing surface is noticeably greater. I haven't put it in yet, but will have more confidence in the LOK set than the first one.
 
So the symptoms are:
1. Rattles when clutch is pressed and engine is reved.
2. Can feel the vibration in the clutch pedal.

Let's go down the list of what spins / doesn't spin when the clutch pedal is depressed and the car is stationary.

1. Flywheel and PP always spin at the same RPM as the engine. ( regardless of clutch engagement )
2. Input shaft and clutch plate are stationary when trans is in gear but can move when in N.
3. Throwout bearing spins at engine speed via PP fingers.
4. Throwout bearing carrier is always stationary. ( regardless of clutch engagement ) Well it slides on the bearing retainer, but I digress.

The list of interacting parts: ( things where vibration can come from )
1. Clutch disk and input shaft in relation to PP and flywheel. ( could be dragging a little. )
2. Input shaft bearing if the clutch is dragging.
3. Pilot bearing to input shaft ( but the thing should be spinning so fast that it shouldn't be a rattle or chatter )
3. PP finger force on contact with throwout bearing face being uneven.
4. Throwout bearing to throwout carrier ( bearing grinding or coming apart, but should be more of a grinding not a chatter or rattle )

If I missed something please add. ( this is just my train of thought )
There are some other things like clutch disk springs that come to mind, but personally I don't think it's relevant...

What makes me think this is the PP is the fact that you can feel it in the clutch pedal...Meaning that the PP is pushing unevenly on the throwout bearing which is in turn pushing on the fork, transmitting the vibration through the linkage to the pedal.

It sucks, but what I would do is pull the trans ( leave the bell bolted to the engine ) and measure the PP fingers to see if one is sticking out more than the others ( with a dial indicator, base mounted to the bell housing or engine block ) . Do this with the PP and clutch is still bolted to the flywheel.

Sorry for the long winded post, but I like to let people know how I get to my conclusions ;) I might very well be looney
 
player1up said:
So the symptoms are:
1. Rattles when clutch is pressed and engine is reved.
2. Can feel the vibration in the clutch pedal.

Let's go down the list of what spins / doesn't spin when the clutch pedal is depressed and the car is stationary.

1. Flywheel and PP always spin at the same RPM as the engine. ( regardless of clutch engagement )
2. Input shaft and clutch plate are stationary when trans is in gear but can move when in N.
3. Throwout bearing spins at engine speed via PP fingers.
4. Throwout bearing carrier is always stationary. ( regardless of clutch engagement ) Well it slides on the bearing retainer, but I digress.

The list of interacting parts: ( things where vibration can come from )
1. Clutch disk and input shaft in relation to PP and flywheel. ( could be dragging a little. )
2. Input shaft bearing if the clutch is dragging.
3. Pilot bearing to input shaft ( but the thing should be spinning so fast that it shouldn't be a rattle or chatter )
3. PP finger force on contact with throwout bearing face being uneven.
4. Throwout bearing to throwout carrier ( bearing grinding or coming apart, but should be more of a grinding not a chatter or rattle )

If I missed something please add. ( this is just my train of thought )
There are some other things like clutch disk springs that come to mind, but personally I don't think it's relevant...

What makes me think this is the PP is the fact that you can feel it in the clutch pedal...Meaning that the PP is pushing unevenly on the throwout bearing which is in turn pushing on the fork, transmitting the vibration through the linkage to the pedal.

It sucks, but what I would do is pull the trans ( leave the bell bolted to the engine ) and measure the PP fingers to see if one is sticking out more than the others ( with a dial indicator, base mounted to the bell housing or engine block ) . Do this with the PP and clutch is still bolted to the flywheel.

Sorry for the long winded post, but I like to let people know how I get to my conclusions ;) I might very well be looney
Click to expand...



Everything above is true. But here's the kicker when I took it to school and other places today did not make any noise.
 
This seems to happen from time to time. I had the exact same problem and it took me a while to figure out that the clutch fingers were always riding on the throwout bearing. I lay down under the car with the inspection cover off and tried to adjust the throwout until there was no friction but I couldn't make it happen. Finally I found this article here:

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t...al_adjustment/

It turns out that lengthening your clutch pedal bracket under the dash solves the problem and gives you the necessary adjustment clearance.

You can read up here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=244298

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=253540

My car is a '65 Barracuda that I popped a 360 into along with a A833 Overdrive gearbox. With all of the proper parts and Brewer's clutch fork the symptoms were identical to these other posts until I cut and welded a small extension into the top clutch bracket. Easily done if you take your time. It's just one of the many "gotchas" no one will tell you about until you've already finished.

Good luck,
Marcus
 
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