Thrust block removal? (pics)

[mullinax95]

I have bought new axles for my 8 3/4 rear end and have seen stories that you have to remove the thrust block out of the carrier in order for the green bearings can be used. They are Yukon axles with the bearings and 3" studs already installed. Now some say you don't have to remove the thrust block in some Sure Grip carriers, but while I have it already out of the axle housing I just want to get the thrust block out for good. That way I know the axles will fit.

So how do I get that sucker out of there?

I don't see anything that I can punch out or drill off so the thrust block will fall out.

I guess I need to take it to the professional if it's got to come apart because he will have to reset the backlash and all the other stuff.

The bottom picture shows the thrust block still in the carrier.

 

[340mopar]

The spider gear pin needs to be removed then the block can be pushed out either side of the third member. Because of manufacturing variances sometimes aftermarket axles go right in and sometimes they hit the button in the third member.

I took apart an 8 3/4 that had aftermarket axles and still had the buttons in the rear and it had bent axle bearing plates because the axles hit the buttons before the plate was flush with the housing and the person that assembled it just cranked down the bolts and bent the plates.

What I do is leave the buttons in all of my third members then I grind the axle as required to fit in each housing. This way all of my third members will work in all of my cars regardless if they have stock bearings or "green" bearings.


Chuck

 

['64 Cuda]

I'll be interested to see how this is done too. If you still have your old axles, can you tell by looking at the wear on the axles how much of the splines on each axle was still outside of the carrier when they were installed?

Hmmm. Looks like part of my question was answered before I finished typing!

 

[340mopar]

Yes, you can see by the wear how much spline is not being engaged by the side gears. It is usually at least 1/2" - 3/4" of unused splines. But the amount the axles need to be trimmed is usually less than a tenth (.10) of an inch.


Chuck

 

['64 Cuda]

Thanks 340mopar. I posted on another thread wondering if the thrust block could be removed, green bearings installed, & then the axle housing narrowed slightly to center the tires in the wheelwell. I wanted to know if the axles could then be pushed in farther without messing with the splined ends. Sounds like it would work for somewhere close to an inch of narrowing. Of course, it would be wise to check the axles I have to be sure how much before any cutting is done, but at least I know the idea is sound.

 

[mullinax95]

Yes, you can see by the wear how much spline is not being engaged by the side gears. It is usually at least 1/2" - 3/4" of unused splines. But the amount the axles need to be trimmed is usually less than a tenth (.10) of an inch.


Chuck

What is the best method of trimming the axles?

Grinder?
Band saw at a manchine shop with coolant being applied?

 

[mullinax95]

Ok....I'm guessing that the machine shop would be the best alternative.

 

[mullinax95]

bump

 

[340mopar]

I just grind/sand my axles with an angle grinder making sure to not let the axle get hot. A machine shop probably would be a better choice. I just don't have one in my area.

Chuck

 

[blackace]

I'm interested to see how you make out. I also have Yukon axles and their currently at the machine shop getting new studs and green bearing installed. But I still have to change the gears in my pumpkin before I do anything.

 

[mullinax95]

I just grind/sand my axles with an angle grinder making sure to not let the axle get hot. A machine shop probably would be a better choice. I just don't have one in my area.

Chuck

Yeah I've got a few places around town I could try. I've got a friend who has a lathe in his shop but don't know if the axles will fit to cut them down.

Here is the way I'm thinking about doing this. I will mock everything up while everything is still out of the car. Bolt up one axle just like I was going to leave it in and then install the other side. After measuring how much the axle likes going in I will divide that by two and take that much plus 1/8" off each axle.

Does this sound like a good way of going about this or should I try something different?

 

[340mopar]

Mocking it up will tell you even if you need to shorten them and it will also tell you how much they need to shortened. Taking half off each axles is the way to go because it lessens the amount removed.


Chuck

 

[Ace]

The way I did it was using a narrowed c-bod housing and making it .2" wider (each side) than stock.

 

[SwingerMan]

The block comes out really easy once I figured it out. On you pic your see the silver disc in the center that has the pin hole in it? Take a punch with the head small enough to go into this hole. A couple of whacks with a hammer the it pushes the to halves apart and the thrust block falls out. Nothing needs to be removed other than the diff. We just did this on my 69 and I also swapped to the Yukon's/green bearings. I can post a pic of the removed thrust block once I get home if it will help with visualizing the proceedure. To me a better alternative to cutting the axles.

 

[mullinax95]

The block comes out really easy once I figured it out. On you pic your see the silver disc in the center that has the pin hole in it? Take a punch with the head small enough to go into this hole. A couple of whacks with a hammer the it pushes the to halves apart and the thrust block falls out. Nothing needs to be removed other than the diff. We just did this on my 69 and I also swapped to the Yukon's/green bearings. I can post a pic of the removed thrust block once I get home if it will help with visualizing the proceedure. To me a better alternative to cutting the axles.

I got your PM and read this second.

I'll go check this out.

UPDATE: I smacked it pretty hard with a punch and it is still in there laughing at me!

 

[SwingerMan]

I got your PM and read this second.

I'll go check this out.

UPDATE: I smacked it pretty hard with a punch and it is still in there laughing at me!

Here are some pics of the thrust block to hopefully help you get it out....


This first pic is looking down on it like you would through the diff. You need a punch with a long head **small enough to fit into the hole in the center**

These next pics are of what the two halves look like once separated. Once the pin comes out both halves will just fall out of the diff. The key is to get a small enough punch to go into the hole.

I hope this helps!

 

[SwingerMan]

Also if it's not coming out with the small punch try hitting it from the other end because it will only come out one way.

I got your PM and read this second.

I'll go check this out.

UPDATE: I smacked it pretty hard with a punch and it is still in there laughing at me!

 

[mullinax95]

Also if it's not coming out with the small punch try hitting it from the other end because it will only come out one way.

I tried it with a nail set so I don't know if that was working correctly or not.

The trust block on mine looks like a pin is going through it in the center. If I hold a drop light on one end and look through the other and take a flat head screw driver and wiggle the block I can't see light in two places. It actually fills like it pivots on a pin going throungh the center of it. I seems my third member is like Chuck says
" The spider gear pin needs to be removed then the block can be pushed out either side of the third member. Because of manufacturing variances sometimes aftermarket axles go right in and sometimes they hit the button in the third member."

I don't know. Thanks for the help. I am going to try to get the axles cut today if my bud dosen't get tied up. I am going to take the axles with me to work so I can swing by there after work.

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

The thrust pin set up Swingerman is talking about is the clutch type, Yours is the cone type and uses a one piece thrust button set up. THIS WILL NOT WORK ON YOURS! The cone sg comes apart easy enough to remove the thrust button and is alot less hassle than cutting or grinding your axles. If you can't do it find someone that will. I build these all the time. If you were closer to me, I'd do it for you.

 

[mullinax95]

The thrust pin set up Swingerman is talking about is the clutch type, Yours is the cone type and uses a one piece thrust button set up. THIS WILL NOT WORK ON YOURS! The cone sg comes apart easy enough to remove the thrust button and is alot less hassle than cutting or grinding your axles. If you can't do it find someone that will. I build these all the time. If you were closer to me, I'd do it for you.

I really do appreciate that you would do it for me if I lived closer. I would like to be able to take these things apart and put them back together without it whining or making noise. LOL. I have always wanted to learn how but I just get someone else to do it and go on down the road. Of course I have to pay them to do it. A friend and I tried it one time and thought we had it right but I didn't get going down the road a 1/8 of a mile and turned around. That thing was singing buddy! So I let the big dogs take care of whole deal.

Got off work today and had my axles cut down with a band saw. I kept the oil on it while it cut and let it take its time. I feel like I took the cheap way out but at least I didn't have to pay someone to take the third member apart and reassemble.

I wonder why the manufactures just don't make the axles shorter in order to dodge around having to remove the thrust block? I mean I HAD to use the green bearings on these axles so they should know by now that they need to be shorter.

 

[blackace]

Here are some pics of the thrust block to hopefully help you get it out....


This first pic is looking down on it like you would through the diff. You need a punch with a long head **small enough to fit into the hole in the center**

These next pics are of what the two halves look like once separated. Once the pin comes out both halves will just fall out of the diff. The key is to get a small enough punch to go into the hole.

I hope this helps!

The pictures aren't coming up?

 

[mullinax95]

Well I have entire rear end installed and everything fits and turns smoothly. I am having a problem with the drums not fitting but have ordered some that might just work. I'm fixing to find out.

Thanks for the help everyone on getting my Yukon axles to fit!