Ticking Noise - 273

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66CudaFormulaS

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I did some running around in my 66 Barracuda today, and after I got home I drove it up on ramps so that I could check out underneath. I let it cool in the driveway while working on some other things. After it cooled down (approx. an hour) and I checked out underneath, I fired it up to drive off of the ramps and it is now it making what sounds like a lifter tick.

The car is bone stock 273 hi po, with solid lifters. Thinking it could possibly be a sticking valve I tried carburator cleaner on it (spray in carb til quits, and then let sit for 10 mins or so), no help.

I pulled the valve cover off of the side that the noise seems most prominent (passenger side) and the rockers and push rods seem ok.

Any ideas as to what this could be would be much appreciated.

Thanks, Rob
 
That kind of sound usually comes from a rocker arm being too loose.....on those 273's, they were adjustable, and from time to time needed to be tightened some, and one at a time by someone who's done it before.......

BUT, I have no idea why it would start right after you drove it off the ramps.....if your lifters were hydraulic, I could understand how it could start suddenly....very temperamental sometimes...... but with solids, they usually get a little more out of adjustment as time wears on....not suddenly.

Without hearing it, it would be tough to say.......but if it's coming from under the valve cover on one particular side, I'd say it's a rocker clacking...Pushrod wear could be the culprit, but again, the noise would be due to the maladjusted rocker not making up for the wear....but have it checked out with a stethoscope and zeroed in, unless you can find it yourself.............I'd find a good mechanic you can trust to take a quick look and try to find the exact location. :read2:
 
Are you sure it is not an exhaust leak? I have a crack in my drivers side exhaust manifold that ticks like a lifter for 5 minutes after a cold start.
 
Well used 273 adjustable rockers often come loose. If it turns out to be your problem, replace the stock adjusting nuts with aftermarket ones that come with a jam nut. I think I got mine from Crane cams, but I'm not sure, it's been 20+ years LOL
Never had a problem after that.
 
Depending on the type of oil filter you have most of your oil may have bleed back down into the pan especially angled up on ramps and caused you to here some noise on restart. Some valve noise is normal on the solid lifter engines and may have been amplified on the ramps. Did the tick go away once warmed up? Could also be a slight exhaust leak you didn't here until you raised her up. Hope it turn's out to be something minor or adjustment related.

Oldschoolcuda
 
Thanks for the replies. It still ticks, off of the ramps and warmed up. I Figured I would 1) Install some exhaust manifold gaskets, as I know there is not one on the passenger side, and 2) Adjust the valves.

Thanks again, Rob.
 
Rob,
The other issue we have to deal with today is the lack of zinc in oil(SM grade) causing cam lobes to wear excessively. The oil companies have been reducing the zinc content due to EPA concerns of plugging converters around the 100K mark and since the last flat tappet car built was over 20 years ago it's not a concern for newer vehicles.After you adjust the lifters and if the noise goes away only to return a few hundred miles later might indicate the cam lobes are wearing quickly. If you start getting what sounds like an exhaust leak under heavy acceleration then the cam is shot. I went through this with a BB Chevy last year, #6 lobe on the cam was worn so badly it looked like the fuel pump eccentric!
 
I had been planning on changing to Shell Rotella at the next oil change..............

shell has reformulated the rotella. its not like the old rotella. just use regular oil, and and a bottle of comp/crane cams engine break in additive. or if you find it, joe gibbs or brad penn oil. they have the correct zddp levels already in it.
 
shell has reformulated the rotella. its not like the old rotella. just use regular oil, and and a bottle of comp/crane cams engine break in additive. or if you find it, joe gibbs or brad penn oil. they have the correct zddp levels already in it.


I agree to a point. Zinc has been pulled out of most oils including Rotella. Having just 2500 miles on a fresh 273 I'm using Valvoline Racing VR-1, 30 weight. It's a speciality oil and the government is allowing zinc to remain in these. I did the research on this. If you do go thru the engine I highly recommend Isky cam # 390144 solid lifter cam. Very nice lope run thru 2-1/2" dual exhaust, turbo mufflers. My Dart, 3 speed is getting 21 MPG.
Jim
 
Ok, I have to come clean. There was something that I did not tell you.

While I had the car up on ramps, I had the bright idea of stuffing a short length of hose between the oil pan and the flywheel cover. I did this to catch any oil that would otherwise drip from the rear main seal onto the exhaust. I kept telling myself, this can't be the reason for the ticking.......

Guess what? I took the hose back out, and the ticking stopped.
Could it have been the fly wheel cover rubbing on the fly wheel?

Thanks for the feed back especially regarding the oil additives.

Rob.
 
Oh....a wise guy.
Probably a bolt holding on the pressure plate/Torque converter extending thru the engine side.

Rule #1
Always go back to the last modification.
 
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