tie rod boot missing, problem?

-
1

1969dodgedartgt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2010
Messages
1,010
Reaction score
4
Location
CA
Hey guys,
I was under my car yesterday doing my first personal oil change and wiping stuff down and inspecting as my service manual prescribes. try'n to keep her neat on the street :). I noticed that one of my tie rods has a boot type thing and the other does not. Is this at all serious?

my guess is that its just to keep grime out of the lubed joint and is not toooo serious but should be fixed when given the chance.

thanks for the expertise and knowledge :happy10:

I was kinda surprised to see this since I just had a professional work on my steering.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2477.jpg
    68.2 KB · Views: 416
  • IMG_2478.jpg
    60.6 KB · Views: 553
Id change it if it was me. So yes it is bad to not have that boot there.
 
alright looking at the manual again i see it does say replace damaged seals or joints immediately to prevent contamination of lubricant or failure of parts, so perhaps that was a silly question. such is life.

thanks anyway 1970Duster
 
1969dodgedartgt said:
alright looking at the manual again i see it does say replace damaged seals or joints immediately to prevent contamination of lubricant or failure of parts, so perhaps that was a silly question. such is life.

thanks anyway 1970Duster
Click to expand...
Dont feel bad! Mine is as bad as yours.
 
You can get them at parts stores on the Help rack. The Help rack has lots of parts needed like door handles, boots, lots of odds and ends.
 
yes it is a good idea to replace the boot as it keeps dirt out and holds grease in, if the tie rod end is good you can buy just a boot
 
1970Duster said:
Haha, Where did you find the boot?
Click to expand...


just googled tie rod boot 69 dart, they dont look quite the same as the one on there. they dont have those little knobs, I'll check a parts store and go back to the place I had the work done (supposedly respectable place) and get a quote/talk to them before I do anything.
 
Energy Suspension has them here are the part numbers. I picked them up at O'reilly Auto Special Order for about 5 bucks for a set of two. I have a 65 Barracuda I assume based on what I have been seeing for the Tie Rod's and the way yours looks they are the same tie rods as mine.
Round
Black 9.13101G
Red 9.13101R
Octagon
Black 9.13102G
Red 9.13102R
 
jhdeval said:
Energy Suspension has them here are the part numbers. I picked them up at O'reilly Auto Special Order for about 5 bucks for a set of two. I have a 65 Barracuda I assume based on what I have been seeing for the Tie Rod's and the way yours looks they are the same tie rods as mine.
Round
Black 9.13101G
Red 9.13101R
Octagon
Black 9.13102G
Red 9.13102R
Click to expand...
yeah, a member on here gave me some pretty good advice "If you bought an A-body, most likely you are gonna have to rebuild the entire front end." Things tend to rot and fall apart over 40 years. It sucks, but whatcha gonna do?:angry7:
 
jhdeval said:
Energy Suspension has them here are the part numbers. I picked them up at O'reilly Auto Special Order for about 5 bucks for a set of two. I have a 65 Barracuda I assume based on what I have been seeing for the Tie Rod's and the way yours looks they are the same tie rods as mine.
Round
Black 9.13101G
Red 9.13101R
Octagon
Black 9.13102G
Red 9.13102R
Click to expand...

Energy Suspension is the way to go. The urethane is tough stuff.
 
Hello I'd like opinions on how hard this is to do by myself. The fact that its the steering and that I may need a puller tool that I dont have makes me weary.

Also if any member around Sacramento/Vacaville would be willing to help me with this I'd pay. I pm'd someone but am waiting for reply.

Thanks
 
I can help you with it if you're willing to drive up to Grass Valley, Ca. I'm near the fairgrounds.

Email me.

jimb
 
It looks like cudajim has volunteered to help, but if you decide to do it yourself it's actually pretty easy. Pull the cotter pin, remove the nut, slip a tie rod splitter over it , and beat it with a big hammer until it falls out. Then you can clean it real good, put on the new boot, reinstall the nut and a new cotter pin, lube it and your done.
 
grassvalley is a ways further then I'd like to go. I leaning towards blazen my own trail on this, looks like I can get what I need for a good price and try it.
thanks for offer jim... and vote of confidence Bradd4406
no better way to learn then roll up the sleeves and get dirty
 
Just my 2 cents - only use a pickle fork if you have to. I picked up a tie rod separator (looks like a puller) and use that to pop it off. If you grab one, get the one for imports as it is smaller and will grab the center link nice and tight. Throw a wrench on it and give it a good turn or two and POP - it comes right off. I have a picklefork too, but swinging that hammer can be a real pain. Brads way works too, just wanted to help you with some options. :)

Tool looks a bit like this:

1654d1235158252-how-pull-pitman-arm-tie-rod-puller.jpg
 
I actually have a tool designed as a tie-rod separator. It puts tension on the tie-rod then I smack the linkage with a BFH (that's a Big Friggin Hammer) and it pops apart every time.
 
DarTT said:
yeah, a member on here gave me some pretty good advice "If you bought an A-body, most likely you are gonna have to rebuild the entire front end." Things tend to rot and fall apart over 40 years. It sucks, but whatcha gonna do?:angry7:
Click to expand...



FUUUUdge, I got all the pieces (enegry suspension, splitter, greese), jacked it up to work on it and looked at more of the rubber and man your right. I need it all redone :sad5:. All that rubber is toast. Luckly a fellow member in Davis has contacted me. So I'll get it fixed soon one way or another. Replacing all that rubber is way too much for me. I'm not gonna tear my somewhat-daily driver's suspension apart at my apartment complex and hope I can get it back together.

I'm never going back to that place I had the idler arm replaced, they should have told me that things were falling apart.

wish me luck, and a better driver afterward :)
Thanks for the help guys
 
The changing of most of the suspension rubber is pretty easy, but I am with you, a compartment parking lot is not where you want to be doing that.

Good luck on the front end rebuild!
 
looky at me, I'm doing it!!

woke early this morn and decided I can at least get the tie rod end done.
Got one end off with the splitter I bought but it's a bit too big and I cant get the other end off. Gona wait 1/2 hour until kregan opens to go get a smaller splitter.

I'll show you guys the other rubber I'm worried about.. The boxed ones really worry me and look hard to get to, but I havent look in service manual about doing work in that area yet.

Brad's directions were very helpful and are allowing me to do this job. Is it similarly easy to do the other rubber that is indicated here? please give opinions if you have them.

Also if you have an opinion on how to clean this stuff up well, I'd like to know. I'm gona just use my purplepower and maybe get some steelwool if nothing else.

Thanks guys :happy2:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2520.jpg
    77.5 KB · Views: 254
  • IMG_2522.jpg
    77.6 KB · Views: 256
  • IMG_2524.jpg
    97.8 KB · Views: 257
  • IMG_2526.jpg
    140.3 KB · Views: 267
all done, easy job as most ya'll are aware....

I do need to get those other rubber pieces, would like to know part numbers for energy suspension parts


and my common sense dictated putting grease on before and after the boot...

look at that messy goodness :) I loved doing this, beats the crap out of sitting at a desk reading.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2536.jpg
    65.4 KB · Views: 251
  • IMG_2535.jpg
    81.7 KB · Views: 262
Congrats - we all knew you could do it. Enengy Suspesion makes ball joint boots too. However, if your old ones are still in tact, I'd leave them for now. Go ahead and do the sway bar end link bushings.

And, I'd wipe the excess grease off everything. The grease is supposed to be in the inside, not outside. That will just attract dirt and you'll have a big mess.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top