Tie rod differences inner vs outer

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4spdragtop

4spdragtop

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While replacing my tie rods on our 67 cuda, i noticed the one Proforged box says "outer" #10410268, but if I replicate what's i took off from pass side, it is actually the inner?? Also on my 2nd Proforged #10410268 it no longer says "outer"??
I know the difference is the cw vs ccw threads.
Is there any other differences?
Also to get an accurate measurement I'm measuring from nipple to nipple, would that be accurate "enough"? It will be driven 10 miles in for an alignment.
Thanks
Steve

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As far as i know the only difference is the thread.
One is right hand, the other is left hand.
If you flop the assembly you might confuse the person doing the alignment, otherwise it would work.


Alan
 
Thanks guys, the one box with and one without "outer" on it had me wondering lol.
Cuda Al said:
As far as i know the only difference is the thread.
One is right hand, the other is left hand.
If you flop the assembly you might confuse the person doing the alignment, otherwise it would work.


Alan
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AJ/FormS said:
I just install them so that "down" on the front makes both sides get longer or both sides get shorter, which makes the alignment guy's job easier; especially when centering the steering wheel.
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4spdragtop said:
Thanks guys, the one box with and one without "outer" on it had me wondering lol
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What thread was in the "outer" box cw or ccw?

I bet in the FSM there is a mention of the ccw thread being inner or outer
 
No mention that I've seen in the FSM. The Proforged "outer" # 104-10268, that I put on inside is cw to thread in.
Dana67Dart said:
What thread was in the "outer" box cw or ccw?

I bet in the FSM there is a mention of the ccw thread being inner or outer
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Looks like you’ve got your front end all apart too just now!

I’d think if your new setup is the same length you would be G2G at least 10miles. Mine is going to the alignment guy with a lot more adjustments needed but not very far.

I had an idler arm fall right out of the K frame (‘65 Dart) at speed once. That centrifugal force kept everything pretty straight until I got down to 20 miles per hour or so. Then that passenger wheel went wherever until I could stop. No violent pulling or anything.
 
Lol, i was just reading your thread today and the DIY tool to remove upper bj. Wish I had seen that before I started this lol. Gonna make one for next time, so thanks for posting!
Tie rods are done, but now replacing bj boots. Upper is on but I can't get steering knuckle up high enuf to engage bj stud and get nut started....did you back torsion bars off?(hope not)
like_A_pike said:
View attachment 1716359868
Replaced the sway bar bushings after a bit of a fight. Both brackets look like they had hit a curb or two. The inside shape and dimensions are different between the two sides. I sliced a little bit off of one bushing to make it go!
View attachment 1716359869
Also got the upper ball joints separated !


View attachment 1716359870
View attachment 1716359871
Instead of the pickle fork, I fashioned a C-3711 from a 2” 9/16 bolt and welded 3 nuts together with the same fine threads as the stud. I reversed the crown nuts too so I could adjust them in addition to my tool. Jammed it in there good and popped the knuckles with a hammer. Voila!

I’ve got both LCA cycling by hand too. They’re just wicked heavy with the UCA and those massive calipers on there. TBC
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like_A_pike said:
Looks like you’ve got your front end all apart too just now!

I’d think if your new setup is the same length you would be G2G at least 10miles. Mine is going to the alignment guy with a lot more adjustments needed but not very far.

I had an idler arm fall right out of the K frame (‘65 Dart) at speed once. That centrifugal force kept everything pretty straight until I got down to 20 miles per hour or so. Then that passenger wheel went wherever until I could stop. No violent pulling or anything.
Click to expand...

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Btw Steve,

If at all possible try to have the slot in the tierod coupler pointing down so it won't collect debris and water.

Easier said than done but...
 
4spdragtop said:
Lol, i was just reading your thread today and the DIY tool to remove upper bj. Wish I had seen that before I started this lol. Gonna make one for next time, so thanks for posting!
Tie rods are done, but now replacing bj boots. Upper is on but I can't get steering knuckle up high enuf to engage bj stud and get nut started....did you back torsion bars off?(hope not)




View attachment 1716398520
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No sir, I used a scissor jack to raise the LCA (&knuckle) back into the upper ball joint stud.
 
lower ball joint:-
remove wheel

pull split pin
undo nut 1/2- 1 turn only

with all parts of body out of the way of the lower arm, hit the end of the eye on the LCA with a massive hammer, suspension helps that taper to split

jack up knuckle to take the tension off the Nut
undo nut the rest of the way
lower the knuckle/ arm on the jack
replace the balljoint seal...

the car helps with this one... :)
 
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