Online wouldn't be my choice.
Go talk to your local machine shop and see what they can do for you.
For a stocker, nothing wrong with a Victor Reinz kit. They can get it for you, likely for a competitive rate.
If your not prepared to do it, have your machine shop measure and get your compression up a bit. Better power, and better economy. Shoot for 8.5:1 or 9.0:1 You can take it off the deck or the head. I like the deck, but I build for lot's more compression.
The car will run better and pass emissions with more compression. If you can get away with it, put a larger head pipe on. 2" is good, 2-1/4" is better for a single. The Feather Duster used a factory 2-1/4" which breathes pretty well though the stock manifold.
100K isn't a lot on a slant. The timing set is likely shot, but unless lubrication or coolant was lost, or the vehicle was driven extremely hard, it shouldn't need a full rebuild. Some rebuilt engines last a short time, but only when the machinist is a total fleebe.
There are concerns about oil pump gears. Stay with a stock size pump. High volume and high pressure pumps are a bad idea on the slant. They simply don't need a whole boat-load of oil or pressure. The loading on the pump gear of a high volume pump can cost you an engine. High oil pressure in a stock engine can flow your bearings.
If you change your mind and want to get some serious power out of it, visit dot org and spend some time in the articles section and searching for options. If you do decide to build power, think about timing curve. It will be necessary to make it run right. Even a high performance build doesn't need an oversize pump. For high RPM, bump the pressure relief up to match. Rule of thumb is 10# per 1000 rpm peak. The stocker is set for 55#. If your not going to run it that fast, don't mess with it.
As long as you've got the engine out, it doesn't take a bunch more $$ to build some potential in.
CJ
