Tips for a engine reseal?

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72Valiant4Door

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I have a sealed power/ felpro gasket kit for my la318.

My engine has been dropped and I am going to start the gasket and seal overhaul I have a slight leak on my rear main seal that I am looking to address.

I also have a 4 barrel and intake, new valve stem seals as well as Billet double roller timing chain and melling stock volume oil pump.

I am looking to find a seal overhaul guide to tell me the different torque specs and sealants I need. I am not pulling the heads btw.
 
find a good sealant for the timing cover bolts
some of them go into water jackets and will weeps if not properly sealed
 
You should install a rear main seal while you have it out. This can be done by just loosening the main caps. Remember lip faces front
 
you mean that clear rubber cement stuff ?

Yes, I call it "gaska snot" because it is runny and stretchy like a wet booger, and dries so you can roll it up like a booger and flick it...

It works great to help hold the gaskets in place while you assemble them. Water pump, timing chain cover, intake, thermostat, etc. Then I use RTV for the corners when necessary...
 
find a good sealant for the timing cover bolts
some of them go into water jackets and will weeps if not properly sealed

I get the sliver powder "worlds best stop leak" and put about 1/8 - 1/4 of the tube in the radiator, then run the car for 30-40 minutes and it finds all the thread leaks and seals them.
 

I do not want to drop the rotating parts, or i would rering

Why not replace the bearings and rings while you are re-sealing it. It will be easy out of the car, and the engine will run better. It's easier to do when you have the engine out. Kill two birds with one stone...
 
1, i havent reringed before. Dont have the tools for it.

2, i wasnt wanting to pull the heads because i have project creepitis. I dont wanna find out a cylinder is neesing bored, i would have to port, etc.

3, i have everything other than sealants already.

4, i am ready to drive the *****, this would delay me up to two weeks, and i have much work left to do. And are very limited on work time.
 
I have a sealed power/ felpro gasket kit for my la318.

My engine has been dropped and I am going to start the gasket and seal overhaul I have a slight leak on my rear main seal that I am looking to address.

I also have a 4 barrel and intake, new valve stem seals as well as Billet double roller timing chain and melling stock volume oil pump.

I am looking to find a seal overhaul guide to tell me the different torque specs and sealants I need. I am not pulling the heads btw.

You should install a rear main seal while you have it out. This can be done by just loosening the main caps. Remember lip faces front


;)


What is a "good" sealant?

The intake is an eddy performer.

that is up for debate, and I didn't really want to go into it because it is like asking "what is a good oil"

but I have heard people use
the right stuff RTV
pipedope
yellow Teflon tape
permatex high temp thread sealant
 
1, i havent reringed before. Dont have the tools for it.

2, i wasnt wanting to pull the heads because i have project creepitis. I dont wanna find out a cylinder is neesing bored, i would have to port, etc.

3, i have everything other than sealants already.

4, i am ready to drive the *****, this would delay me up to two weeks, and i have much work left to do. And are very limited on work time.


The only "special" tool needed is a ring compressor which is not expensive...

I can walk you through the process if you want to try... It's not that difficult...

Don't be afraid of the bores, they are most likely ok...
 
I know i am going to regret this and have to hide the bills from the gf...

If i have an engine gasket kit, i just need standard iron rings and what bearings?
 
I know i am going to regret this and have to hide the bills from the gf...

If i have an engine gasket kit, i just need standard iron rings and what bearings?

Here's a Mancini refresh kit for $200 with iron rings, bearings, and gasket kit.

http://www.manciniracing.com/sealedpowerkit.html


Here it is with moly rings which will break in faster and last longer for $5 more.

http://www.manciniracing.com/sealedpowerkit.html


Pull a main cap and rod cap off and remove the bearing shell. Look on the back to see what size it is. If it's factory, you should see a "STD" stamped on the back of the bearing for standard...

If it's oversized, it will be marked: .010, .020 etc. Get the same size bearings that are in the engine right now...

I know that you have a gasket kit already, but the kits are a good deal.
 
Make sure to mark all caps and rods, then main caps also to be sure that you don't mix them up. They are matched and must be kept together. Use a marker or paint pen, or stamp them to ID them...

Handle the pistons gingerly. Don't knick the ring grooves. The rings must be free to spin in the grooves.
 
Moly means hone?

No, they will work on your cylinders as is...

If you want to hone or find that you may want to, then all you need is a ball hone. You can get one at NAPA pretty cheap, part # 2488 will handle bore sizes from 3 3/4" - 4 1/8" and are very easy to use. Just put it in a drill and stroke it up and down until you get a nice smooth bore. You will need to stroke it up and down at a medium pace to get the cross hatch, but it's not hard to figure out...

View attachment Ball Hone 2488 A02 B2.jpg

View attachment Ball Hone 2488 A04 B2.jpg

View attachment Ball Hone 2488 A06 B.jpg


You don't have to hone it, but it will help take the ridge off the top of the cylinder... And you feel better because you have a good cylinder wall surface...

Don't be afraid to try, it's not too hard, and you will be a better mechanic after you do it...
 
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