Tips for mounting shifter

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72ScampTramp

Scamp Tramp
Joined
Jan 13, 2009
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Fort Dodge Iowa
I have a Pro Stick shifter. Can these be mounted anywhere on the hump or is there a certain spot they need to be?
 
Pretty much where it feels comfortable. I would sit in the seat and set it where it feels good to you and mount it.

How long is the cable?
 
You should be able to mount it where it feels comfortable. Read the directions over a couple of times before you start, just so you have it in your head.

Is there anything in the directions that tell you a specific spot, there wasn't in mine.
 
I did use google, and read the instructions before hand, What I didnt read was where to mount it. My first build, my first muscle car, my first any car under 1990. So yeah I do turn to some of you older fellas thats been doing this for years. First hand exp is better then anything.
 
I mounted a Cheetah shifter in a 69 Barracuda drag car on top of a .30 caliber ammo can. With plastic race seats the raised location worked nice, front of shifter was angled slightly to the right. The hinge on the ammo can was modified to allow the top to slide off when the lid was opened far enough, latch was toward the rear. The inside of the can was painted white, better to see inside of the can when it was dark at the races. Ammo can was used to hold time slips, tire pressure gauge, shoe polish and other small items I didn't want rolling around the floor.
 
Thanks, Badsport.



Lord, don't you guys ever use Google? Go to B&M and download 'em

No!! becouse we have you!!!!!!!! and many other great members to help us along at times............ Lord!!
 
Our Home Depot has a section in the hardware dept. with a variety of steel and aluminum pieces - angle, square tubing, flat plate, etc.

I found piece of channel that works great as a shifter mount. It's about 2" wide and the "c" or "U" is about 1/2" deep x 4' long. I cut a piece the length of the shifter base, drilled corresponding mounting holes in it and bolted the shifter on with 3 or 4 short 1/4" bolts. Then I welded the nuts on underneath and it was ready to weld onto the trans tunnel/driveshaft hump where convenient. The welded nuts allow you to remove and replace it without any extra hassle.

Might need to "ding" the sheetmetal a bit to get it to sit flat before welding, depend on if it's straight or angled a little. But avoid sharp bends in the cable and stay away from headers. (I had to nylon wire-tie mine away from them.) If B&M is like Hurst, they should have 5' cables available if you need a longer length.

I just jigged one up for a friend in case he decides to by one of my shifters.
 

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