Tips for replacing intake manifold/headers

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cchrishefish

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I have almost everything I need to start my 4 barrel and header conversion. I started looking over the studs and hardware on my 225's head. I do not feel comfortable with keeping the old studs and risking snapping them when I torque the bolts, my header instructions indicate 26 ft lbs of torque. I have never removed studs on a slant 6 head before. Therefore besides hitting them with PB blaster for 3 days in a row, what other things should I consider?

If I put 2 nuts on each stud will that work for getting them out?

Also I have 2 new expansion nuts for the end bolts, what should I use for the rest, grade 8 nuts?

I also need to buy grade 8 threaded studs, I am not sure what size and thread pitch they are. I wanted to buy these before starting.
 
I have almost everything I need to start my 4 barrel and header conversion. I started looking over the studs and hardware on my 225's head. I do not feel comfortable with keeping the old studs and risking snapping them when I torque the bolts, my header instructions indicate 26 ft lbs of torque. I have never removed studs on a slant 6 head before. Therefore besides hitting them with PB blaster for 3 days in a row, what other things should I consider?
If I put 2 nuts on each stud will that work for getting them out?
Also I have 2 new expansion nuts for the end bolts, what should I use for the rest, grade 8 nuts?
I also need to buy grade 8 threaded studs, I am not sure what size and thread pitch they are. I wanted to buy these before starting.

Hello cchrishefish,
Found this chart a wile ago on the intra web. Not mine but may help you and others.
Stay safe,
Happy Mopar :)
Arron.

Bolt Size and Tightening Information � 170, 198 & 225 Slant Six Engine
Fastener Location Thread Size,Torque (ft. lbs) Wrench Size Under head length (inches)
Connecting Rod bolt / nut * 3/8-24, 45 9/16 9/16 Thk. Nut

Cylinder Head Bolt * 7/16-14, 70 11/16 4.3 (Cast Iron)

Main Bearing Cap * 1/2-13, 85 3/4 3.0 (Cast Iron)

Camshaft to Timing Gear* 7/16-14, 35 5/8 1.4 ARP 155-1002

Timing Chain Cover Bolts ^ 5/16-18, 200 in.lbs 1/2 .6 (Auto. Trans Pan Bolt)

Engine to Trans. Bellhousing (4) 3/6-16, 30 9/16 1.5 (frontside bolt is 1.75)

Engine to Trans. Bell, Bottom(2) 7/16-14, 35 5/8 2.0

Trans. Brace to Trans. Bell ^ 3/8-16, 25 9/16 1.0

Trans. Brace to Engine Block 7/16-14, 35 5/8 1.0

Rear Main Seal Retainer ^ 3/6-16, 30 3/8, 12pt. 3.0 (Small 9/16 dia. Head)

Valve Cover Bolts ^ 1/4-20, 40 in.lbs 7/16 .5

Distributor Clamp ^ 1/4-20, 95 in.lbs 7/16 .5

Engine Mount to Frame Nut 1/2-13, 85 3/4 .6 with captive washer

Engine Mount Bracket to Block 7/16-14, 45 5/8 1.5

Flywheel to Crankshaft 7/16-20, 55 5/8 .875 (5/8 thick head)

Flex Plate to Crankshaft * 7/16-20, 55 3/4 .5 ARP 200-2903

Flex Plate to Converter * 5/16-24, 270 in.lbs 9/16(short) .450 ARP 240-7301

Fan Attaching Bolts^ 5/16-18, 200 in.lbs 1/2 Length based on spacer

Fuel Pump Attach Bolts ^ 3/8-16, 20 9/16 1.5

Bellhousing Bottom Cover ^ 5/16-18, 7 1/2 .6 (Auto. Trans Pan Bolt)

Alternator Bracket to Block (2)^ 3/8-16, 30 9/16 1.25 (1 bolt 5/16-18 x 1.5)

Alt. Adj. Strap to Head^ 3/8-16, 20 9/16 .5

Intake to Exhaust Manifold (3)^ 5/16-18, 240 in.lbs 1/2 3.0 min.

Manifold set to Head Studs ^ 5/16-18 x 1/2, 5/16-24 x 3/4, 1� total, use sealer into head

Oil Pan Drain Plug^ 1/2-20, 20 7/8 .5

Oil Pan Bolts (6 longer @ ends)^ 5/16-18, 200 in.lbs 1/2 .6 (Auto Trans Pan Bolts)

Oil Pump Mounting Bolts ^ 5/16-18, 200 in.lbs 1/2 1.625

Starter Mounting Bolts 7/16-14, 40 5/8 1.5 ( Locating Stud Used)

Water Pump to Block ^ 3/8-16, 25 9/16 1.5 (2 Bolts @ 2.5 Long)

Thermostat Cover ^ 3/8-16, 20 9/16 1.0

Vibration Dampener Bolt (Press) 3/4-16, 135 1 � 2.3 (1.5 Min. Thread)

^Indicates reference torque only. �Common sense� hand tool tighten, no torque wrench req.

*Indicates fasteners that have an ARP p/n for a premium quality repacement fastener.

This chart is provided for fastener size and aftermarket replacement fasterner cross-reference. Torques are for reference only.

Fastener installation is application specific, good machining and fastener installation practices must be followed.

Copeyright, 2002 - Doug Dutra, all rights reserved
 
I do not want to snap any of the manifold studs when I remove them. Fortunately for me, the engine was replaced with a remanufactured unit in 2009. But, the studs look like they are the original. So, if I lock 2 nuts together onto the stud, this would be the best way to do the job? I certainly do not want to use vise grips if I can help it because they tend to strip the threads and if 1 stud refuses to come out, I may just leave it alone
 
yes, 2 nuts tightened on each other would be the preferred way to remove them

if that doesnt work, get a torch and get them nice and hot
then try again
 
heat will be your friend, they should have sealant on them ( found out the hard way when installing the new ones and had a leak ).
there was a post on .org with the McMasterCar part numbers for replacements. I used all grade 8 nuts on mine with success ( so far-made it a couple years )
I bought slightly longer than stock ones for mine. the aftermarket manifold & Clifford headers are thicker that the originals.
 
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