Snake
Mopar Nut
OK guys,what causes booth front tires to have a little tire wear on the out side .When we went for the road test it steered nicely and stop dead straight.Someone has raised the front up some,could there be to mush caster?.
Tire wear.
- Thread starter Snake
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momoparman
MOISMYHOME
Kernel Sanders
eating chicken wings and drinking beer
I think you mean camber. And I would think with a little too much camber and toe in, the outside edge of the tires would wear. I'm no expert on alignments tho
Raising the front end will move the wear to the outer edges of the tires...
Always set front end height before the rest of the alignment....
Always set front end height before the rest of the alignment....
One of the benefits of radial tires is a softer ride and better traction. That softer ride comes from a more flexible side-wall than the old bias-ply tires. When a toe-in (your condition) or a toe-out condition exist in a bias-ply tire, we get the feathering condition describes in the link provided by momoparman.
With a radial tire the same feathering can happen. BUT, if the toe-in condition is minor, such in the case of worn parts as described in the link provided by momoparman, or a slight mal-alignment condition, instead of scrubbing the whole tread face (feathering) the radial tires sidewall flexes just enough to offset the whole tire scrubbing condition and instead will wear both tires edges almost perfectly even as you described.
Toe always divides in a dynamic condition, toe will not wear one tire and not the other.
With a radial tire the same feathering can happen. BUT, if the toe-in condition is minor, such in the case of worn parts as described in the link provided by momoparman, or a slight mal-alignment condition, instead of scrubbing the whole tread face (feathering) the radial tires sidewall flexes just enough to offset the whole tire scrubbing condition and instead will wear both tires edges almost perfectly even as you described.
Toe always divides in a dynamic condition, toe will not wear one tire and not the other.
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d1970
TODAY IS A GOOD DAY TO HAVE A GOOD DAY
factory manual alignment specs are no good for radial tires, they only work if you use bias-ply tires. This is what I told the old guy at the alignment shop to use Camber -.50 to 0 degrees, Caster as much postive as you can get up to 3 degrees and toe in 1/16th to 1/8th inch. Car runs down the road straight as an arrow now. You will be limited to what you can do with stock A arm bushings, but if you have the Moog off set A arm bushing you can tweek it a little more. Like Krazykuda said set your ride height before getting your alignment done.
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Snake
Mopar Nut
OK got it.I am now on to taking this old 71 a part for paint the fun begins.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
It does sound like excessive toe in.
Like I said in anther post just a min ago "try letting one tire get off in a little gravel or dirt at the edge of the road and see if it instantly breaks loose a little".
That is a tell tale sign that the toe is off.
And BTW, lifting the front causes wear on the insides of the tires because raising the car pulls the tie rods up causing the tires to turn out and wear the insides.
Like I said in anther post just a min ago "try letting one tire get off in a little gravel or dirt at the edge of the road and see if it instantly breaks loose a little".
That is a tell tale sign that the toe is off.
And BTW, lifting the front causes wear on the insides of the tires because raising the car pulls the tie rods up causing the tires to turn out and wear the insides.
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